bloke_zero

Is it the same? The Geezer Butler are passive - @fretmeister - pickups passive or active? I'd be interested to hear the outcome if active. With passive quite a few people go for 0.1uF like you say, though the modern take seems to be 0.046 or 0.22 for a progressively lighter touch.

Can't see any issues from the pictures. I wonder if it's worth taking it back to the basics? Unstring, take the neck off, examine the pocket, check the bridge, check the nut, replace the neck - check the tightness of the neck bolts. See if the problem is still there. Seems like if the problem isn't electrical then it must be physical?

The first 3 seconds had me hooked! I see what you mean, not clean but super present while remaining, er, for lack of better words 'contextualised' - they sound like they are coming from somewhere rather than all around you. If you get me. Which is something I value in recording. Nice, thanks for digging that out! And the recording @slowburnaz!

That looks really interesting - I couldn't see any clips on their site or on youtube - do you have a URL? Thanks!

I think that is exactly what it is. People put up for ridiculous amounts incase they get a bite, then wait for watchers and start lowering the price incrementally until someone needs that dopamine hit of winning on the internet... It's insidious - I've pressed watch on stuff that is overpriced in the hope it comes down and when somebody drops the price by $50 even though it's $500 over the odds there is still a pull.

I loved the build, concept, neck shape, flexibility and loudness, but I didn't get on with it either - tried for about a year gigging and recording - never could quite get a sound I really wanted. US L2000 - horses for courses!

Recorded this with my young son on the camera - a rather absurd 5 minutes as we were having a laugh, but I think it gives a flavor. Amazing how just the notes groove. All credit to Bernard and his extraordinary chops!

Warmoth has the edge. I've got a beautiful P fretless here and medium scale neck - they are both really great necks - stable, not to chunky, not too thin. The allparts was a great neck - accurately made, super stable, great finish but slightly more factory and felt more baseball bat. Which you may prefer! (These are all variations on the P neck for context).

I got a USACG neck a few years ago (they are now at MJT - https://www.mjtagedfinishes.com/necks) and it's a real cut above the allparts. It was $450 unfinished. The allparts was good, really solid and even, but the USAGC was just beautifully finished and had graphite stiffening rods added - it's really a joy to play. I think that is the kind of difference, like a handmade suit vs off the shelf (not that I have a handmade suit!). I have a couple of Warmoth necks and they are really nice. I'm sure they are all CNC, but's a question of what happens before and after the CNC machine (conception, construction and finish).

Buy it before they destroy it for copyright infringment 🤪 https://www.rockfactory.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=gbg-rivpadmap

The Viva-analog is in my queue - I've held off as I've never done single side PCB soldering. You are making me think it might not be worth it at my skill level! I love that early Larry Grahahm sound and want to see how much the pre is part of the recipie!

When you say recording do you mean something to wear while you record to stop sound bleed, or something that you are using to monitor the recording on the way and using to tweak the sound before it goes in? If you need to get the sound right on the way in I'd reccomend paying more. Obviously you want closed back! I've had a lot of joy with Senheiser, AKG and Beyerdynamics - it might be worth checking the range? I can reccommend Beyerdynamic DT 700 PRO X - there are some in the studio that work well and are pretty robust.

I followed this: Came out well. Straight forward. I don't condone his gun use...

Feeback

Ash is a knowledgeable and pleasant person to do business with - I bought an KARP Odyssey from him and it arrived in bomb proof packing exactly as described. Thanks!

That works - match it to the length between the screws or a little shorter. You're looking for a good stable base allowing you to get the slight angle to match the fingerboard radius and keep them level on the bridge/neck axis (if you see what I mean) as you don't want them dipping or pointing towards the bridge or neck. It's very easy, just takes a bit of patience.

Ack! Sorry - when I bought mine it was B-stock at £300

I put one in. It was pretty simple screwdriver job. You're right - you must get the right model!

I prefer that - feels like you get a more open tone

I bought the cheapest one I could get at the time, B-stock 'Arrow' - looking at their new range 'Volt' I don't *think* that does - though it has a compressor emulation. So it's the 'Apollo' range that do hosted plug-ins. Overall I'm really pleased with it. It's very limited audio in out (basically stereo), but has impedance matching and a really nice quality of preamp and D/A. I don't feel that I must go into a studio to get a good signal in.

UAD interfaces have a slot for a very low latency plug in (the interface also acts as the plugin host so you're in their world) . You could put anything in there including EQ.

Plus one from me for these - lovely middy 70's tone. But still very clear and articulate.

It has 100% more knobs?

I was doing this yesterday and was wondering if the pickup orientation was important? The diagrams all show the same orientation by which I mean which part does EA and DG and which way around they are. Anyone know?

Shout out for Watford Valves - been using them for years.