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andruca

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About andruca

  • Birthday 23/08/1974

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    Madrid, SPAIN

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  1. With just one Zoom device you won't be able to independently process the "guitar" part (needs different EQ, heavier distortion, etc.), no parallel processing, even with the latest B6 model. But you can do that with 2 of them, and I've done just that with previous gen cheap ones (you can get a B1on/G1on used for 30€ or less these days). The cheapest I could get away with was <100€ (more like 70-80€ if you toroughly scan the used market) with any 2 of Zoom's MS-60B/50G/70CDR/B1on/Xon/G1on/Xon (firmware can be customized to have guitar FX on the bass model and viceversa) and any cheap ABY pedal (got mine for 20€ new). Explained in the video description. You can hear bass first, then guitar (made stereo with added stereo chorus), then both. Probably not suitable for a 2 piece like RB but for sure gets the job done, i.e., in a 3 piece, to cover some space when the guitar guys does a solo. I've set it up so I can do just octave or octave+harmony (usually a 5th up). I'd usually use the one with the most FX slot capacity for the guitar branch, as it usually needs more processing than my usual crunchy bass tone (usually just BassDRV + 160Comp). EDIT: when using only 1 amp I'd use an easy passive Y/attenuator I've made with a box I already had, 3 jacks and a pot. One input is wired directly to the output (the least loud), one goes thru' the pot (the loudest). Guitar goes mono when doing so. Sorta' ghetto, but does what's needed.
  2. It's too in your face for my taste. And I appreciate it being the argument of many who, in the end, give up on them (without sufficient band experience). You can roughly "tame" a Stingray, but if you want a "polite"/"delicate" tone out of them that's harder to achieve. OTOH it's a different instrument on flatwounds, I have 2 indeed, one is permanently on flats and happens to be "polite" enough for solo recreational playing.
  3. Agree. Yet, a P is a bass you can play on your own and sounds good, despite the "primitive" nature of its tone (there goes another funny adjective). According to statistics I'm making up just right now, 99% of people who ditch a Stingray do so in frustration after playing it too much on their own. There lies the usual "either love it or hate it" narrative around Stingrays. Should instead be more like "you either love it in a band setting or only play it home on your own and end up hating it".
  4. I've owned several of those 3 "paradigms" and what I hear matches my experience. Jazz Bass? More detailed and "refined". Stingray? In your face yet the most mix friendly (pretty "rustic" when playing on your own really, not that pleasant, but shines in any band mix). BB? Scooped in comparison (and a bit nasal in the OP video). Nice vid, nice playing, nice tones. 👍
  5. Wow man, thanks for taking the time. I do IT for a living and am fluent in Python so if you need a helping hand just let me know. OTOH I'm totally ignorant as to how Windows binary resources (such as Zoom's firmware installers) work. I'm giving this resource hacker a try, just in case it helps me understand it.
  6. Even tho' LTFs are my flat of choice for fretless, I bought this some months ago to try these Magma Ultra Flats (.040"-.120") strings in one of my SR5s. Overall soft and warm, probably a bit brighter than my beloved LTFs. https://www.magmastrings.com/1_1_2_ultra_flat_process_stainless_steel_round_wound.html# You can hear them here...
  7. andruca

    Drop C#

    I usually go drop D on my Jazz with a .045"-.105" gauge set and beat the crap out of it. I know drive and compression maek it easier, but still .I'd confidently use a .050"-.110" set for drop C# tunning.
  8. Can't find anything in search engines. Still, "my" custom firmware (based on version 2.1) is right now working OK in my MS-60B. It consists of stock stuff excluding... Ba Detune MarkB Ambience Bomber ModDelay PhasedDly Spring63 St Bs GEQ TapeEcho3 Z-Organ with these effects added from the MS-50G (guitar) model (mostly guitar amps)... BG CRUNCH DZ DRIVE BGN DRIVE Z MP1 MS CRUNCH VX COMBO FD COMBO HW STACK MATCH 30 TANGERINE VX JMI Z Dream RedCrunch Aco.Sim
  9. Mine is dead quiet too. In fact, I went back to my MS-60B after ditching a B1XFour last year. The MS-60B was noticeably less noisy (also sounded fuller, B3n/B1Four/XFour sound BOXY in comparison). I only use ZNR past a certain amount of drive (the nature of the beast, I guess, even my SansAmp RBI gets noisy as I push the drive knob). Not necessary for my "clean" tone (which is not as clean really). Don't fear the ZNR if you're going high gain, it's a great noise gate indeed. I use it at the end of the chain and set detection to GTRIN. Again, my sound is sort of "binary", either I sound full blast or am not playing, so my threshold can be set pretty high.
  10. Not into effects really since mid 2000s. I own a B3, an MS-60B and a G1Xon (with custom firmware with all bass relevant stuff from the B1Xon). All three sound identical to me. I mostly go BassDrive (SansAmp emulation) -> 160comp (dbx160 emulation) in a variety of gains... ... and occasionally add a BaSqueak (blendable RAT emulation) plus some BassPEQ to get a more DarkGlass tone...
  11. AFAIK 2.1 is the current version for the MS-60B. For the B1on model it's version 1.3.
  12. Have you tried turning it on in firmware update mode? You'd have to hold both the up & down navigation keys with the B1on turned off, THEN connect the USB from the PC to turn it on. It should display some "Ready for firmware update" wait message (or similar, don't remember it textually). If you can get there you can re-flash the firmware you were trying to install (or the stock Zoom version). Now, if it turned off during the update it might be that the USB port you're using doesnt't have enough power to feed the B1on, you could try a different USB port/bus (check your PC's specs) or maybe use an externally powered USB hub.
  13. andruca

    help needed

    One more vote for multi-FX. Start Zoom if you want it cheap (still most bang for the buck IME). I've been a SansAmp guy since forever, mostly an RBI, nowadays in my studio just for recording really. I've had Zoom's small multi-FX since about 2000 (BFX-708, 708II, B2.1u, then MS-60B, which now coexists with a G1Xon, B3 and G3). The last 2 generations sound AMAZING. I've also dabbed into the newest generation (B3n, B1four/Xfour), indeed I owned a B1X Four for some time and had plenty of oportunity to A/B it with the MS-60B, and I sticked with the previous gen. because the four (and some B3ns I had also tried, just not A/Bed) sounds boxier and a little noisy in comparison. Really, if I'm 100% result driven about this I'll never spend much more than Zoom range. I've used POD, GT-6B (noisy!, also Boss' "modules" paradigm is so obsolete) and many other more expensive gadgets. IME Zoom kills them all. Only other thing I'd be interested in these days is Mod Devices' Dwarf, just because I like open-source stuff and the infinite interconnectivity (still I've yet to hear decent bass demos of it -modern sansampey/darkglassey stuff-). Just as an example, I've built a Guma Drive pedal (B3K clone, my bro' did all of the soldering in fact), which I love, but in all honesty my honeymoon with it lasted for about 2 weeks, until I took about 1 hour to replicate such "darkglassey" tone in my G1Xon (firmware customized with all bass relevant stuff from the B1Xon). So, other than the fact that browsing thru' menus and fiddling with parameters is not for everyone, I see no other argument to look elsewhere. TONE IS DEFINITELY THERE and functionality is HUGE, you just have to take your time tweaking. IME they blow any preamp/comp/EQ pedal out of the water for a tiny fraction of the cost (you can have a used B1on/Xon -can chain 5 FX- for like 30€ 'round here). No brainer.
  14. Regarding tone, I've played a couple Stingray5s since forever as my main basses (one with flats, one with rounds nowadays). OTOH, I hardly ever use them home, not that nice for playing on your own really (usually too "in your face"). Its virtues tend to shine more in a band mix environment. Doesn't ever get lost/buried, and it's probably one of the easiest bass tones to post-produce because of that. It's just not a good bedroom bass by any means, I mostly use a FSO or my Star Bass for that.
  15. I've owned 2 Stingray5s since forever (old ceramic 3 coil pickup) and a couple years ago I gave a used Ray35 I found a try. The asking price for those used around here is ~600€. I'd never get a new one when 1100€ can get you a 2nd. hand USA EBMM. If I were to do it today I would go SUB all the way (and swap the preamp -lack of headroom is their only endemic problem-). My Ray35 (black, mahogany according to specs) was HEAVY, heavier than any of my USA Rays. I'd only recommend the "high end" SBMMs if you found them cheap used. Only thing calling my attention these days from SBMM are SUBs (the HH 5er). I know I could put a 20€ Artec preamp (only real problem) on any SUB and have a bass that isn't that far below in VALUE from a "high end" SBMM as the price difference would suggest.
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