bloke_zero

Ouch - yes - jarring!

I know I'm gushing now - but the sig on the headstock is one of the few I've seen that doesn't look cramped, or too square on a curved object, or like someone smashed something out on photoshop and asked 'will this do?' - it just sits in nicely - a piece of art. You're a lucky man!

Nice - I like the detailing - dots on the knobs - the bridge looks heavy! In a good way!

I have so many PCB's to do I've forgtten what some of them are - time to break out the soldering iron. I know I have a breadboard kit for an old envelope follower filter thing that Larry Graham used to use (in like 1970 something) that I want to build in a pursuit of the ultimate funk - I'll start there!

I've developed a sudden need for a cutlass - anyone sub me till after the crisis? https://guitarvillage.co.uk/products/music-man-cutlass-bass-black-ex-demo-rrp-1999

When I connected a nordy mm pickup straight to a jack it sounded great but had too much treble - subsequently my mission has been to just shave off the wince making treble but leave the rest untouched - a 250k Volume pot did help a lot. I wish I understood all this better!

I I hear you! Moving to Stingray from PBass style nearly broke me - then I started doing some slapping which seemed to break me of needing my hand in a locked position.

http://www.zero-mod.com/home.html Feels insanely expensive to me, but a good solution. EDIT: Ah - sorry! I see you're just trying before drilling. Might be useful to avoid the drill?

My home build MM stingray benefited from shielding - I assumed there was an element where the electronics (though passive) could be a source of hum - perhaps it just helped with the grounding!

This thread inspired me to drop from 5mm E at 15th to 2.2-ish - very pleased with the results. I'm hearing a lot of difference moving the pickup height - Nordy MM style - I've dropped it backdown as it seemed to be getting a bit boomy when I raised it - I guess that's another thread!

When we're allowed out again I'm going to go and track one down for a test run!

I love the orange, sorry, desert gold!

That was a lovely thing - sorry I missed it!

Candy Tangerine!! My favourite. Now I'm searching the old for sales!

MJT make nice stuff - reputable, but in the US. They've teamed up with USACG who made the nicest neck for me - sweet true and double carbon truss rod light. Check ebay - they put up a bass a day. Or you can order direct but it'd be $400 or so - you can order them undistressed (I would!). https://www.mjtagedfinishes.com/bass-bodies-and-necks https://www.mjtagedfinishes.com/metallic-colors#Shoreline-Gold

Yes - it feels like it might be right - it's already a very individual bass - this would take it the next level of strange character.

I recently bought a lined fretless bass not really being sure that I wanted to go that way but feeling I could always get another neck or get frets put in. I was doing a session with a fret nerd guitarist mate and he suggested getting the bottom 7 frets put in and leaving the rest fretless, so not the fret the bottom 2 -3 strings but across the finger board fret the 7 lowest frets across E A D & G Madness? I quite like the idea but I'm guessing there is a reason no one does it. I really like the neck profile and feel. And and I really like playing fretless but the music I play benefits from having frets (crisper attack, and some slap bass where the metal twang from the frets is good). What do you think? Best of both worlds or just mad?

Roasted maple? Best of both worlds or milky chocolate abomination? You decide

Thanks @ikay - maybe I confused the 2 things - I did them at the same time - but it sounds like I'm just hearings things - oh well - thanks!

Hi! I've been messing around with the basic PTB scheme on a bass I put together with a single nordstrand MM4.4 pickup (so I'm not using the switching - I've just a series/parallel switch). I wasn't liking the sound too much as it it was until I started looking more at the L1000 schematic and adding the 200pf cap at the volume seemed to help a lot - like reduced the ear bleed treble and a sort of ringing that I had without it. The circuit is here: I sort of understand the basics (sort of!) of the circuit but I had some specific questions and I wondered if any one knew or could steer me to the right place to look. The question I have are what does the 200pf cap across those pins on the volume do & what does the 6.8K resistor on the treble do? I'm guess the 6.8K is just providing a static reduction to the treble? Seems like this circuit is getting me where I want to be and I'm tempted to put in the OMG switch -see what it does to the Nordstrand.

And they have some really smart configs - P + MM Stingray pup layout on the California always made that look like a real workhorse for a certain kind of player.