bloke_zero

Yes and no - it was a special Warmoth order that I got 2nd hand from eBay, so the only routing is the front pickup and then electronics cavity routed at the back. Looks like this: Thread from when I got it and the previous owner here: Thanks!

I cheated and got it that way - it's Warmoth. Passive bass and treble with volume, and a pull on the volume for parallel/series - based on this: https://www.bassesbyleo.com/passive_l_series.html I couldn't get a reverse 1meg pot with the right taper so it works backwards - less than perfect!

Welcome to my world:

I did exactly the same thing - except I took out the preamp entirely - there was something I liked so much about the passive sound that dissapeared with the preamp - I noticed it especially when recording. I'm not dissing the John East at all - a great characterful pre and awesome on stage, or for that MM sound. For me, in this case, more was less.

I did, I did - I went with the passive treble and bass control from the G&L L2000. I just found it fascinating that the volume pot would have such a huge effect as well. I know this is old hat to you guys but coming from the world of modular synthesis I'm amazed and loving the passive electronics I'm finding out about. I just need to figure out the right cap value for the bass cut now as currrently it's frequency is a bit high.

Mate - formica is a very under rated tone wood in my book!

Thanks Dave - I'll give that a try. The lowest I can get the action is 11m at the bridge (measuring from wood to bottom of string), my other bass is more like 8.5mm - I know the neck, depth of neck pocket etc will all make a difference but it gives an indication of how big the thing is!

Thanks - I've tried as close to that as I can get - the bridge is big and high, so putting that as low as possible still gives me 3mm at the 12th on E! The nut is cut low so everything I do it a bit of a compromise. The bridge has a piezo pickup in it so non-trivial to swap out, though I'm starting to think in that direction. Frustrating that my fretted bass has a lower action than the fretless!

I built one of these - great pedal - I think it really cleans up the bottom end - yours looks great - mine looks like an unreadble heap in comparison! I've been going through my PCB backlog and it's all filters - envelope filter pedals and modular synth state variable filters - I reckon I have 2 months of build ahead of me.

Speaking of which - where are people putting their fretless action? Weirdly I have a bit of time on my hands and I'm thinking if I can just get the action right on my fretless I'll be able to play like Jaco (not).

One of the joys of fretless is the super low action

Ouch - yes - jarring!

I know I'm gushing now - but the sig on the headstock is one of the few I've seen that doesn't look cramped, or too square on a curved object, or like someone smashed something out on photoshop and asked 'will this do?' - it just sits in nicely - a piece of art. You're a lucky man!

Nice - I like the detailing - dots on the knobs - the bridge looks heavy! In a good way!

I have so many PCB's to do I've forgtten what some of them are - time to break out the soldering iron. I know I have a breadboard kit for an old envelope follower filter thing that Larry Graham used to use (in like 1970 something) that I want to build in a pursuit of the ultimate funk - I'll start there!

I've developed a sudden need for a cutlass - anyone sub me till after the crisis? https://guitarvillage.co.uk/products/music-man-cutlass-bass-black-ex-demo-rrp-1999

When I connected a nordy mm pickup straight to a jack it sounded great but had too much treble - subsequently my mission has been to just shave off the wince making treble but leave the rest untouched - a 250k Volume pot did help a lot. I wish I understood all this better!

I I hear you! Moving to Stingray from PBass style nearly broke me - then I started doing some slapping which seemed to break me of needing my hand in a locked position.

http://www.zero-mod.com/home.html Feels insanely expensive to me, but a good solution. EDIT: Ah - sorry! I see you're just trying before drilling. Might be useful to avoid the drill?

My home build MM stingray benefited from shielding - I assumed there was an element where the electronics (though passive) could be a source of hum - perhaps it just helped with the grounding!

This thread inspired me to drop from 5mm E at 15th to 2.2-ish - very pleased with the results. I'm hearing a lot of difference moving the pickup height - Nordy MM style - I've dropped it backdown as it seemed to be getting a bit boomy when I raised it - I guess that's another thread!

When we're allowed out again I'm going to go and track one down for a test run!

I love the orange, sorry, desert gold!