Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

bloke_zero

⭐Supporting Member⭐
  • Posts

    776
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by bloke_zero

  1. http://www.acguitars.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/ACG_EQ01.pdf Ok, cool - so treble is a high pass filter - makes a lot of sense to me Now I'm desperate to know what the "other" preset does: Filter resonance? Explodes the fabric of space time?
  2. He's very approachable over email LusitHand Devices: [email protected] I'm hoping it'll get here for the weekend so I can install it then. I think the one that would really shine would be the multi-coil version. Is that available on it's own? It's also got EQ options. I guess you could always add some of John's EQ modules to the LusitHand filter if you wanted to go fully featured! https://www.east-uk.com/product/mid-sweep-01/
  3. Thanks - I wasn't sure from the blurb that it would work with non EMG pickups but reading the wiring notes it's clear that it does. I like the whole solderless thing EMG does - I wonder what connectors they are? That's the direction I've gone in - this guy makes a buffered input and low pass filter per pickup which sounds perfect: https://facebook.com/Lusithand/ He seems like a really nice guy, and he lives near me North London. I figure for not much more money than the blend I can get a more complete solution that will allow me to add in filtered P-pickup to the wide open MM: https://www.rautiaguitars.net/uploads/1/0/1/7/10174351/nfp_double_manual.pdf I've done some SMD - troubleshooting microscopic solder joints is no fun! It's been a relief lately to put a big chisel tip on my soldering iron and solder things without magnification.
  4. I currently have a MM and a P pickup wired passively VVT (250K pots) with the MM wired to a switch giving series/single/parallel. They sound good individually witha lot of snap from the MM and plenty of body from the P pickup. But there isn't a lot of value blending the 2 together at the moment, and I guess that is because of things I don't really understand about pot loading, imedance and direct current resistance. Ideally I'd like to be able to sneak a bit of the P pickup in to add body to the MM. Would the best way to do that would be a buffered blend and maybe have the tone passively just on the P to maintain that passive P sound? Any suggestions for active/buffered blend? I looked at the Noll active blend pot - feeling that might be best.
  5. I have I have, but in a way that speaks to my point as it clearly echoes the original scratchplate!
  6. I hear you! I got it from ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/earlpilanz?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754 - the thing is that so much of the look of the jaguar is the scratch plate, and if I cut it it'd hide the screw holes from the first round. I'll let you know!
  7. Update - phase 1 complete: playable bass. It's great to play, I love the PJMO allparts neck - baseball bat in a good way. At 40mm it's a bit narrower than my other necks but very chunky front to back - 1" at 12th fret. The Warman p-pickup is great - maybe a bit too hi-fi, but strong lows and detailed highs, and £15 it's an amazing sounding thing! It'll be interesting to put it up against the handwound one from Monty's - apples and oranges I know. I think the 70's wind from Monty with alnico's will be a better compliment in some ways to the Delano MC 4 HE/S which is super hi-fi, but I'm into the Warman sound - crisp and modern. I've put some shady temporary wiring in with some B250k's I had lying around, CTS A250's coming + a linear for the tone - why have all the adjustment in the tone in 20% of the travel? I will definitely be bringing the parallel/single/series switch out round the front - I think the single pickup mode will work best with the p-pickup, parallel is classic MM and the series mode is fat, which is good for the passive. I really like the Delano - I'm getting that disco pop from it when playing towards the bridge. What I'm finding interesting is how much closer to the sound in my head with this build compared to my previous build which was a Warmoth p-body with a MM route, maple neck and Nordstrand pickup + a John East MM pre. This build is much brighter and has that bark, and I don't know why, though it seems like it might be a combination of the body wood (I think the Warmoth must be alder), the pickup being 2 CM closer to the bridge on this build and maybe the pickup. I went with a Nordtsrand MM4.4 and I've since regretted the additional coil, suspecting it's making the tone bloated and less crisp. I think my knob game is strong at the moment. Things I'm not decided on: Pickguard - I have some white single ply Control panel - depends partly on if I go active and need 6 knobs! If I did that I might fit it out like a jag guitar and get the preset roller pots and control panel fro the upper horn. I quite like the Jaguar control panel below but I'd have to re-drill the knobs or route a cavity. Active? At the moment I'm liking the ramshackle look and the passive tone, but I'll let it sit for a while! Defintely going to re-finish the body at some point.
  8. I think that puts the coils in series if it is SD style which would make sense. If it's a MM style then parallel is the classic choice. Nothing wrong with series mind you!
  9. Sounds like a good plan - worked out for me - I've nearly finished a build with similar motivations. Shout out for axesrus - great for all the bits and super quick. Do you need a pickguard? Control plate? Agreed - I got a nice finish from the penetrating oil - feels really nice on the neck. I went with allparts and ended up with a chunky PJMO neck which has a profile I'd not normally touch, but actually feels/sounds great. One of the many things that I've enjoyed about it is the chance to try stuff out and really listen at all stages of the builkd and decide for my self on things like the influence of wood on the final sound, do pickups really effect the sound that much? what value capacitor sounds best for tone roll off and stuff like that. Somethings to think about and explore. Good luck with it!
  10. Looks like you'd need to resolder to the 9V in just down from the white 'Out' wire. Is it clipped off there? You might need to desolder if so - which can be a bit tricky. I'd expect there to be a ground/- in as well near the 9V in. it looks like there are 3 inlets to the right of the white out wire? Hard to tell from the picture. I'm sure better brains than mine will be along to offer some wisdom.
  11. After a bit of time I can say I need a tree - trying a lefthand muted pop left the portion of the G string on the tuner side of the nut singing like a, well, high pitched singing thing - use your own analogy, I've just thought of 4. Makes me wonder whether the suggestion to have a string tree for ADG might be better than the button one I have for D&G. Thanks for your input everyone!
  12. Might be worth checking your grounding scheme against this article which I found really useful to understand things a little better. I was under the impression that more grounding was better, but that isn't the case - they reccomend star-grounding: https://www.fralinpickups.com/2018/11/12/understanding-guitar-grounding/
  13. Agreed! Though I did repair the finish. But nothing like Jaco's bass of doom repair after he threw it down some stairs... https://reverb.com/news/remembering-jaco-pastorius-a-tribute-to-his-favorite-gear
  14. That's really interesting - I just tried that with a heavy, I think Northern Ash, body and I all I get is smash and spearkle at the top and a deep bass no mids. I just A/B'd a geezer butler P-pickup vs a Warman Ceramic in it and the difference in the recordings was pretty clear - the geezer had that 70's tight thing, the ceramic was more hi-fi but brash and much more low end. With both you could really hear the zing from the body come through - but there is very little mid wood. I think you're right - you can filter stuff out with the pickups but you can't really add it in.
  15. There is a lot to be said for a bass that you can just play without worrying that you'll damage and that is simple and reliable to use on stage. I dropped a solder station on one of my basses smashing 4 chunks out of the finish and in a way it was a relief - I no longer have to baby it.
  16. Lovely - I'll order some for the final build - that is pretty much bang on what I'm after - thanks!
  17. Thanks! That is with a few coats of Crimson guitar penetrating oil on it. There is some of the original stain in bits of the end grain that I cannot get out, so I'm sort of on pause with the finish while I figure out what I can live with. In some ways like it as it has character, some sense of having lived a previous life. I'm interested in your wonder finish! My feeling is that I'll dissassemble it and have another go at the end grain and try and do a better job of the sanding. I like the really pale grain. Hoping will be better set off by the white pick guard and metal control plate which I'm going to cut this weekend. On the sound side it's zingy! Really bright - can't wait to get a pickup or 2 in there and see how that translates on to the real side!
  18. So I tried a trans white effect. The Mrs said it was more IKEA than Habitat. And even Habitat was er, not very rock n roll. So I sanded it back and left it basically natural with the slightest white ghosting. Here it is with pick guard template
  19. Interesting thought - like a low pass filter with a bump somewhere above the cutoff frquency? I think what's meant is lowpass with a variable resonant hump at the cutoff frequency. In synth land 'notch filter' has a very specific meaning - it's also called 'band stop' where you remove a narrow frequency range.
  20. Awesome thanks! That clears up most everything as there is an email address too - I can ask about "Notch Filter Low Pass" - sounds like a low pass in parallel?
  21. Dry run build. It’s playing really well. After a lot of thought, research and some I went for a low mass babicz bridge because who doesn’t like the idea of full contact?
  22. I don't think I've ever seen a string tree required on the E string. If you don't mind me asking, what is that bass? Oh, I’m just asking about the higher strings, d & g - the neck is an allparts ‘chunky’ PJMO precision/jazz replacement neck with a smaller headstock. The e is fine - similar to a tele bass.
×
×
  • Create New...