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bloke_zero

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Everything posted by bloke_zero

  1. bloke_zero
    Sorry to hear about the truss rod. 64.5 sounds a bit wider than usual you're right. It's good to get a good tight fit with the body - I guess you could always get some maple veneer and bulk it out a little bit if it was an issue. I think your best bet is to find a replacement jazz neck - the pocket size is standard between jazz and precision. I hear good things about https://guitarandbassbuilds.com/ or you could try northwestern. I've had success with allparts but they can be quite pricey.
  2. bloke_zero
    Will accept offers, and a discount if you want to collect from N8 (socially distanced of course!)
  3. bloke_zero
    Yeah - I had an L2000 and found it a bit intense for my tastes on most settings. I think part of my problem was listening at home with a pre-amp or DI rather than smashing it into a '72 Ampeg with no horn - schoolboy error! In the end I could dial in sounds I liked but I think my sloppy technique was highlighted by the unforgiving clarity at the top end.
  4. bloke_zero
    As new, unused with screws. £6 each posted or a tenner for both. Bought from Axes R us.
  5. bloke_zero
    Including postage, works great. This is the 4.4 so has hum cancelling 'single coil' mode so would suit a bass to be wired Series/Parallel/Single best (I can throw in an on-on-on switch for that if you want). Currently wired for parallel I ordered this direct from Nordstrand as they are often out of stock at bass direct. Comes with box, screws and springs. Includes postage in the UK. See also my other ads in this section for John East MM pre and a MM Warmoth body.
  6. bloke_zero
    I dropped a solder station on this so there are some repaired spots in the finish - it doesn't look great close up! Please check the photos. I repaired the spots with nail varnish and I'm pretty sure someone more competant could do a better job. Other wise this is a great body. I'm pretty sure it's alder, it's light and resonant. Music man pickup rout Fender neck pocket Angled neck pocket for improved access to the shred (comes with cut down fender neck screws - YOU CAN DESTROY YOUR NECK IF YOU USE THE WRONG SCREWS) Copper shielding with ground wire Rear rout with cover Comes with cut down neck screws, stereo switchcraft barrel jack and pickguard. Feel free to ask any questions. And see my other ads in this section for Nordstrand MM4.4 pickup and John East pre
  7. bloke_zero
    Good condition, just removed from a Warmoth body. Does what it says on tin plus much more. 3 knobs, Volume and stacked Bass/Treble and Swept Mid Dip swtich to define range of mid sweep Treble pull for extra bright Dip switch to allow use of non MM pickups I resoldered the volume knob (tested) after replacing it with a push pull knob for parallel/series All the parts it came with for you to install except for a jack socket. No MM plate - I don't know if it fits a standard plate! Please check before buying. I had it on a Warmoth rear rout body and the threads were long enough to accomodate that. I have the PDF of the installation guide if you have any trouble getting it from the John East site. Please note that you'll have solder this in place AND have a stereo jack plug. See my other ads in this section for pickup and body. Includes postage in the UK.
  8. bloke_zero
    One of the totally obvious things I've learnt recently is "you cannot add what isn't there, but you can roll off the treble". By which I mean if your bass has no zing no EQ on earth be able to will add it, but reaching down to the treble knob will always roll off anything you don't want. A lot of people say to approach the MFD differently and start with the tone controls down and bring them up rather than start with them up and bring them down.
  9. bloke_zero
    I always liked the reverse P Eagle: https://reverb.com/item/6192883-b-c-rich-eagle-bass I even like the body shape - feels more california whimsical than metal.
  10. bloke_zero
    I agree - yeah, it's weird he doesn't mention that, but I guess the main thing I took away was what an enourmous difference position plays. I have a bass with a MM/P combo and the P is an inch closer to the neck than standard and you can hear it has a different tone - boomier and more hollow.
  11. bloke_zero
    I'm guilty of putting bits together and calling it a 'build' - but to be fair there is no 'bodging a bitsa' section here - I did look! I generally at least break out the soldering iron and some finishing, but it doesn't feel right putting it up alongside people whittling a bass out of an oak tree and hand winding their pickups which is an order of magnitude harder and more interesting.
  12. bloke_zero
    @funkle posted this: Gives you *all* the positions (except the W double p)
  13. bloke_zero
    Looks cool! How do you like that pickup placement? I'm thinking of doing the same, but inverted. And the wiring - I see stacked pots - separate tone and vol for each?
  14. bloke_zero
    Tru oil adds a bit of yellow when you put a few coats on. The three you mentioned are in the ballpark but all with different formulations and slightly different finishes. Here is a roasted maple neck I did before and part way through. Depending on how many coats you put on you get more or less gloss. Not great pictures, but you'll get an idea that the tru oil adds some vintage-ish tint.
  15. bloke_zero
    Though I'm reading that running it in parallel clears up the muddiness and the few people that swear by them in 'the other place' all seem to install them parallel. Hmm - fun! I wonder if it'll be worth it's own switch.
  16. bloke_zero
    I'm going to order one - I'll try it out but Dimarzio say "Wiring Options Although the Split P™ has 4 conductors, effective switching options are limited. The basic connection described above is for series humbucking wiring. Parallel wiring is also possible, but the difference in tone is slight. This is because the two halves of the Split P™ pick up different pairs of strings, so there is no tonal interaction between the E & A and D & G sides."
  17. bloke_zero
    Nice - thanks that is awesome - I'm going to see if they do a candy tangerine!
  18. bloke_zero
    Thanks - lovely grain! Did you try a neck in it yet? Snugness of neck pocket is a key metric for me!
  19. bloke_zero
    How do you rate them quality wise? I'm really interested in getting a double P body and tired of shopping in the US!
  20. bloke_zero
    Having followed the thread and made some negative comments - I think I have changed my mind and will try and support.
  21. bloke_zero
    Also they are troll music on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/fdbk/feedback_profile/trollmusic
  22. bloke_zero
    Hi all, Anyone any experieince with these guys? https://guitarandbassbuilds.com/ They seem to occupy a small niche in the UK between cheap and very very expensive that not many people fill. Have you had one of their necks or bodies and what did you think? Especially interested in the necks - how they'd compare to allparts or fender. Cheers!
  23. bloke_zero
    I think this is a real problem - the wood is stiffer, and like anything rigid it is less tolerant to stress as it can't bend. I have a USACG roasted maple neck which cracked exactly that way when it was built up, and then repaired with bond-tite. It does have a lot of positives - stiff, bright, stable - looks gorgeous! I don't want to bring up the whole 'tone wood' thing, but if you're of the school of thought that says a big heavy neck is good for tone then obviously roasting the moisture out of it is going to reduce that effect.
  24. bloke_zero
    I somewhat agree, but having spent too long building websites my feeling is that it should all be about the content - and they have some great content! I'd rather be oggling a hi rez gallery of a 70's stingray than struggling with a system that looks like it was built in 1996!
  25. bloke_zero
    It seems amazing that they don't just get a proper website with, like a connection to their stock. The number of times I've ordered something then to be told it's out of stock is silly. I can kind of understand things like strings (even though everyone else manages it), but more expensive stuff like pickups and bridges? In the end I decided to just shop elsewhere for parts. They could probably just use an out of the box system and get a better looking, more usable working site than what they have.
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