bloke_zero

Wow - great job - sounds great too! I love all those BC Rich basses from the eighties and with the double P and through neck this is reminiscent of those. Nice!

I've a mustang control plate I bought but never used and could send you? Might not be perfect though

Everytime I go into a shop and try something I get some aspect of this. Fortunately/unfortunately most of the basses I've tried that really rang my bell were in the 2K region and pleasantly unobtainable right now. But they did give me a lot of ideas about what I like, what is 'true' about different basses and what I might aim for in the future. The short scale oak blastcult bass I tried sort of opened the doors of perception bass-wise: fun, solid, quick great sounding and nothing like a p-bass or a stingray, or really any other bass I've tried. bit spendy though!

Lovely - pretty sure I've seen Larry Graham playing through these as well. It feels like such a big part of *that* sound.

Dennis! Legend - he's the first interview in this which I'm just reading: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bass-Mids-Strange-Attractor-Press/dp/1907222774

As a long time analogue synth user I can say with some certainty that you should never use switch cleaner in a pot. it will remove the conductive lubricant and the conductor will start to get scraped away. Use Deoxit - they do a cleaner and a lubricator - I forget the details but a web search will turn it up. To re-iterate (and at the risk of coming on all prescriptive!) If you use contact cleaner it will work initally as it will clear the dirt but also the pot lubricant and soon cause lasting damage to the pot. Often the best cure is just to turn the pot 10 or 20 times - that sometimes moves the dirt around in a way that sometimes resolves the problem ambiently!

Wunjo on Denmark street had a luthier - nice guy, but I only had a setup, nothing substantial. And of course stairway to kevin - best luthier name ever?! https://www.stairwaytokevin.com/ Bass gallery said to be good - a mate is getting a neckshave done - I'll report back.

The other alternative is to put it up on Reverb at silly money and see if anyone bites, or at least makes an offer. You can leave it up there and periodically lower the price. I've had a generally good experience of selling through Reverb and it's kind of an accepted model - put it up high and leave it till someone comes along that really wants it. I have a mate who sells a lot of high end gear that way. I guess this is a version of 'let the market decide' but a more relaxed and gentlemanly pace than ebay.

The issue will be scale length as the bridge won't be in the right place - if you're happy to re-drill and remount the bridge you'll be ok as long as there is room on the body!

Great interview - I love how he geeked out on the build details.

it is possible! The thing will be matching the brightness - if you can find a parts list you might get the exact LED type as they vary in brightness a lot - I'm not at all clear on the technical aspects - but I know that a lot of circuits you vary the a resistor value to get the right brightness. Working on commerical PCB's can be difficult as they aren't as forgiving as DIY PCB's - easy to lift the traces and often very dense. If you've got the bug maybe build a kit from pedalparts or similar: https://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/Bass-Friendly/cat847125_2466416.aspx And also troubleshooting builds is part of the fun (really?) - checking all the solder joints and the orientation of parts and then tracing the signal through the circuit and seeing where the issue is (you can tap into the audio and see whats happenning). Someone that knows what they are talking about will be along in a minute with some better advice!

Thats a bit gutting! Sorry to be the bearer of sad tidings!

Those cracks from the tuning peg can be successfully glued. Sold now so I guess moot either way! looked lovely - walnut over maple?

There are a lot of situations where having the clearest cleanest signal is not desireable. I'm thinking specifically of tape where you get insteresting peaks and troughs through the frequency range plus a load of saturation effects. Or a valve amp is another example. I used to feel that it was best to get the cleanest brightest signal recorded and then mix and EQ it, but now I feel like if I can get the sound right first then I'm in a better place. And directly to the point there is something I really like about passive tone control and the interaction with amplifiers and that cable just adds a bit more variation. More for guitar than bass - I just thought it was interesting!

There is a great deal to be said for visiting the shop, hanging out a bit, getting to play a load of instruments. One of the only things I'm looking forward to about going back to the office is being able to troll down to Wunjo's and appal them with my terrible playing on many many basses - you get a real feel for what you like and what sounds good that way.

I don't have any direct experience, but when I asked the same question here the response was positive, and I looked a lot through their facebook page and you can see they are a solid business. I'm still thinking about getting a body from them. I see they've started to sell necks as well. https://guitarandbassbuilds.com/ https://www.facebook.com/guitarandbassbuild/

I have to agree. It's a really beautiful build, but like when I obsessively put together a bass and my mate said, "wow it's like a £3000 bass" (I'm sure he was being nice about it!), even if that was true it would be like buying a ferrarri replica from someone with an unknown track record - it might be as good as the real thing, but part of the value comes from the marque it'self and a bitsa will never command the prices of a Fender and will remain the value of it's parts. Which doesn't detract from the fact that it is a great looking bass - nice work!

There is nothing like a really good set up. And we all love it when a bitsa comes togther! There is something magic about when the bits of wood work together. Glad you got a good result!

Looks deadly! Great finish - how does it sound?

The neck thing would be key for me - the Yamaha specifically says it's thin, the L2000 will be chunky. I had an L2000 for about a year and played it out a lot, it was great for a wide range of sounds, but it didn't have that effortless "yeah thats it" that you can get from a good passive - with the MFD's you just got so damn much sound even passive!

Nice - I like the way the white has aged a little - makes a change from all the sunbursts!

Played one at the weekend - very fun! Perfectly playable and sounded ok. Took me a minute to get my fingers scaled but after that and lowering the pickup it felt good.