itu

I have played Elton John's songs and they are arranged so professionally, there's space for all instruments. But if a band just plays without thinking, the collisions are very likely. A pro arranger knows the problems in the low end, and is able to avoid them. Music physics is not magic, but some people can arrange music sound like magic.

...and as Artec is a plain tone stack, vol and balance are 250k or 500k. You can use them in lo-Z (active) and hi-Z (passive) modes. Therefore bypassing Artec would be very simple.

I might do at least a bypass to electronics in case of a battery failure, and to get a few more sounds. Ser/par (pickups) could be another extra. If you think a tone is a must, one rotary switch position could be passive with a trimmer and a cap. With trimmer you can adjust the amount of tone, and then you'd have a preset tone ready.

If you are into tinkering, use a rotary switch to get options like in Kubicki Ex-Factor: OFF/STAND-BY/ON... but like passive/active...

@Basvarken: what's the order of the strings? If I remember an old article right, playing with a pick or fingers defies the order. Is this true? With pick the downstroke hits the lowest first, and with fingers it's the other way around, yes/no?

There's an Ibanez Axstar and a Yahaya Motion here for sale that would fit your specs. Iba even has a 34" scale. Check them first. I have a partsbass with a Status neck. Because the neck is so stable, I detach it and pack it with the body to hand luggage. No one has asked about the neck coming out from the bag.

Like @ian61 said. Problem solved. The lower you go, the further the two instruments/notes must be. Frequency difference gets very small the lower you go. Therefore you should not get closer to the keys than a fifth, but an octave sure is safe. The same applies to chords played ɓy us bassists. You can make simple calculations by subtracting A4 from F4 (a major third), and then A1 from F1 (try this with your bass!). The difference in the lower end starts to resemble flanger, and the result is really mushy. Besides if there are any issues with tunings of different instruments, the result will be even worse. https://www.vibrationdata.com/piano.htm This is the musical theory reason why only one bassist is needed, and keyboardist should stay far enough. For the same reason there's theoretically space up there for two g-word players, but in practise...

If you open the case, you can check date codes from the opamps and other semiconductors.

It would be easiest to use a thin carbon fibre plate/strip. Weighs nothing, is stiff, and could be taped to pickups (3M VHB). Can be removed if necessary.

Pictures please, sharp ones. Do you have a DMM (Digital MultiMeter)? If yes, start measuring from output jack.

Picking the string hard may move the whole string a bit away from the actual tuning. If you do the same with a harmonic and softer touch, the frequency should be exact all the time. This may happen also when the tuning post has lots of random rounds and the saddle is slightly sticky. Graphite may help as well as the right way to tune the strings. But if the whole bass is like a spring, toss it.

I have read this a few times and must get back. Magnetic pickups can catch very low frequencies, and there sure is the fundamental seen (/heard/caught). But how much less, when the pickup is further away from the middle? Amplitude is smaller but that is true for harmonics, too. (It is not even possible to have the pickup in the middle because that middle is true only for one single note, or the pickup should move.) Piezo is another thing because it listens to the body or the bridge.

@Basvarken is the man! You have to check his works here.

How about contacting @KiOgon? (I do feel your pain. Last time I ordered components, opamps were of wrong footprint.)

This was new to me, and I decided to open this thread about any add ons that could be helpful when tweaking with pedals or pedalboards. https://knobyfier.com/ Yesterday I tried to find Stompshields from T-shop, but no more in their selection. http://stompshield.com/

After going through preferred setup and changing suitable strings would help. But I find it true that usually you get the feel about any bass pretty quickly, no matter what strings or setup. The instrument just feels good to you or not.

This depends on the sensitivity and power amp performance. But the loudness difference is most likely negligible.

The original was powered by an internal PSU. The signal chain had a compander (like dbx, Dolby, or Telcom). Therefore the noise level was super low: signal goes to compressor, then it is processed (analog) and finally expanded to outputs (full delay, and half of it to make it sound like a stereo unit). By the way, this pedal was also available in rack format as 1210. (tce had many interesting units at that time like 1140, 1144, 2240, 1220, 1280, 1380, 2290, programmable Phaser XII and XII B/K, dual parametric pedal...)

If you even try that Sonuus (B2M), buy a piccolo set, too. Prepare yourself to play everything again and again to get something reasonable out of the MIDI rig. The best solution is to use a keytar, MISA Tri-Bass, Industrial Radio (split fret) bass or similar. Bass is so slow in frequency to MIDI conversion.

Mark King was originally a drummer, therefore it is possible to him to play bass and sing. But if you are a true bassist, walking and talking simultaneously is not possible. Forget singing and playing at the same time.