itu

Picking the string hard may move the whole string a bit away from the actual tuning. If you do the same with a harmonic and softer touch, the frequency should be exact all the time. This may happen also when the tuning post has lots of random rounds and the saddle is slightly sticky. Graphite may help as well as the right way to tune the strings. But if the whole bass is like a spring, toss it.

I have read this a few times and must get back. Magnetic pickups can catch very low frequencies, and there sure is the fundamental seen (/heard/caught). But how much less, when the pickup is further away from the middle? Amplitude is smaller but that is true for harmonics, too. (It is not even possible to have the pickup in the middle because that middle is true only for one single note, or the pickup should move.) Piezo is another thing because it listens to the body or the bridge.

@Basvarken is the man! You have to check his works here.

How about contacting @KiOgon? (I do feel your pain. Last time I ordered components, opamps were of wrong footprint.)

This was new to me, and I decided to open this thread about any add ons that could be helpful when tweaking with pedals or pedalboards. https://knobyfier.com/ Yesterday I tried to find Stompshields from T-shop, but no more in their selection. http://stompshield.com/

After going through preferred setup and changing suitable strings would help. But I find it true that usually you get the feel about any bass pretty quickly, no matter what strings or setup. The instrument just feels good to you or not.

This depends on the sensitivity and power amp performance. But the loudness difference is most likely negligible.

The original was powered by an internal PSU. The signal chain had a compander (like dbx, Dolby, or Telcom). Therefore the noise level was super low: signal goes to compressor, then it is processed (analog) and finally expanded to outputs (full delay, and half of it to make it sound like a stereo unit). By the way, this pedal was also available in rack format as 1210. (tce had many interesting units at that time like 1140, 1144, 2240, 1220, 1280, 1380, 2290, programmable Phaser XII and XII B/K, dual parametric pedal...)

If you even try that Sonuus (B2M), buy a piccolo set, too. Prepare yourself to play everything again and again to get something reasonable out of the MIDI rig. The best solution is to use a keytar, MISA Tri-Bass, Industrial Radio (split fret) bass or similar. Bass is so slow in frequency to MIDI conversion.

Mark King was originally a drummer, therefore it is possible to him to play bass and sing. But if you are a true bassist, walking and talking simultaneously is not possible. Forget singing and playing at the same time.

Glass (or carbon) fibres make the material tough. The fibres tie the polymer together (and the other way around). Practically many polymers (like polyamide, PA) containing lots of fibres are very tough. Most of them are also injection moldable, depending on fibre length (from ball to fibres to long fibres) and machinery. Here's a product that is made of PA that includes tens of percents of fibres. These were built from metal earlier, and are in a hard place: M. Cipollini et al. have pushed far over 2 bhp through similar pedals, and cleats. https://www.lookcycle.com/us-en/products/pedals/road/comfort/keo-classic-3 P. S. Because of fibres (especially glass) these polymers (plastics) are not that easy to recycle.

https://www.campusplastics.com/campus/en/datasheet/TEDUR+L+9107-1/MOCOM+Compounds+GmbH+%26+Co.+KG/5/91e531bc Polymer that has 40 % glass fibre. Injection moldable. Cheap material, but the mold will cost quite some. Most likely easy to machine.

That. Was. Evil.

That's a good one. A low cost solution that is easy to use and apply.

...equals the right amount of basses is +1.

No one has mentioned Kustom? alusonic makes aluminium cabs (12" and 2x12"). You can choose custom colours to the frame and the front grille. https://www.alusonic.com/aluminium-cabinets.php

I think I can answer some of your questions. Some work is in need, although the necks are complete with fretboards and frets (if you do not order a fretless). Bolt attachment holes are not pre drilled. Start from P and J neck details which cover most of the features.

Hill street blues theme Eagles - One of these nights Walk on the wild side Practically any jazz song is good for fretless. Long, singing notes sound very different. I think fretless is best suited for simple lines. All extra can be cut away, and still - or because of that - sound so good.

I tried to make a list of necks and options proposed so far. I am not quite sure if all options are available to every neck. I suppose that depends on the interest. - J (£450) - P (£450) - MM (£480) - MM5 (£480) - normal nut - slim nut - frets 20/22 - fretless - no dots / unlined - dots / lined - blocks (+£30) Prices do not include P&P.

This is something I do not like: do you really have to play so loud that you need ear protection? How about the rest of the people in the gig? Should you provide ear plugs to them, too? To play hard is different from playing loud. If you need to play loud, try to understand why. Maybe a change in the setup on stage or placement of amps can help to tame high volume. Like the g-word player stands beside the amp, which is on the ground and the player cannot hear the direct sound = trebly +100 dB. A BIG MISTAKE. Suggest this: https://www.thomann.co.uk/thomann_amp_stand.htm

I built a pickup maybe 25 years ago that can handle low frequencies, DC - 400 Hz. It is made from an acceleration sensor. Small, but goes really low, even too low (DC). I made a HPF to it because amps were really hot after some playing: the directional component was too much to most amps I tried. Needs a power, like a 9 V battery. Not so good by itself, because of so limited response but could take care of the low end. Sensibility is comparable to other pickups available. I got the sensors from a certain manufacturer. They did not limit the response in production, and therefore it goes so high. Many units are limited to, say 100 Hz.

As said many times before: alcohol earliest after the gig. You are there for them. Give the best out of you, not the worst. Do not change anything that may change itself a day before the gig like strings. You can change a battery a week or two before. Then you can be sure that it works flawlessly. A new battery may be bad, seen this a couple of times. A quality cable is a must. A spare one is needed by a g-word player - sooner or later. And as said earlier: have fun. Everybody sees your feeling, and feels it in your music. If you go and see professionals, they can create a good sounding feeling no matter what. Do not care about tiny failures, they feel big only at the stage. Go forward, and do it boldly! P. S. Buy a quickly adjustable metronome to your drummer, and let him write tempos to the set list. You will love your drummer from that on. For example Tama RW30 can be quickly set. It is an investment, not a cost to you, believe me.