itu

I tried to make a list of necks and options proposed so far. I am not quite sure if all options are available to every neck. I suppose that depends on the interest. - J (£450) - P (£450) - MM (£480) - MM5 (£480) - normal nut - slim nut - frets 20/22 - fretless - no dots / unlined - dots / lined - blocks (+£30) Prices do not include P&P.

This is something I do not like: do you really have to play so loud that you need ear protection? How about the rest of the people in the gig? Should you provide ear plugs to them, too? To play hard is different from playing loud. If you need to play loud, try to understand why. Maybe a change in the setup on stage or placement of amps can help to tame high volume. Like the g-word player stands beside the amp, which is on the ground and the player cannot hear the direct sound = trebly +100 dB. A BIG MISTAKE. Suggest this: https://www.thomann.co.uk/thomann_amp_stand.htm

I built a pickup maybe 25 years ago that can handle low frequencies, DC - 400 Hz. It is made from an acceleration sensor. Small, but goes really low, even too low (DC). I made a HPF to it because amps were really hot after some playing: the directional component was too much to most amps I tried. Needs a power, like a 9 V battery. Not so good by itself, because of so limited response but could take care of the low end. Sensibility is comparable to other pickups available. I got the sensors from a certain manufacturer. They did not limit the response in production, and therefore it goes so high. Many units are limited to, say 100 Hz.

As said many times before: alcohol earliest after the gig. You are there for them. Give the best out of you, not the worst. Do not change anything that may change itself a day before the gig like strings. You can change a battery a week or two before. Then you can be sure that it works flawlessly. A new battery may be bad, seen this a couple of times. A quality cable is a must. A spare one is needed by a g-word player - sooner or later. And as said earlier: have fun. Everybody sees your feeling, and feels it in your music. If you go and see professionals, they can create a good sounding feeling no matter what. Do not care about tiny failures, they feel big only at the stage. Go forward, and do it boldly! P. S. Buy a quickly adjustable metronome to your drummer, and let him write tempos to the set list. You will love your drummer from that on. For example Tama RW30 can be quickly set. It is an investment, not a cost to you, believe me.

Could you make a short article here about it, please?

But who has a Vigier Nautilus?

How about pushing the preamp to mimic a P pickup? At least that's what the preamp is there, to tweak the sound. Added with the place of your right hand you should be able to get a P'ish thick sound.

If the balance of the pickups is fine, simply turn up the gain of your amp. B string may sound similar to other strings or not. But when you change strings, you can try different ones to find the right for you. I had a MG Quantum 5 that sounded best with a 120, so thicker is not automatically better. Congratulations, you seem to have bought lots of bass. Now go and play a lot!

If you buy it, do not start about putting frets to it, no!

I started w/ piano at the age of 5, turned to bass when I was 17 (an excellent decision; no.year.yes.I.am.old) basses: 10 ish theory: pretty good, like a tad under 9 trechmiqure: not mcuh more than 7 groove: say 8, timekeeping is my thing

Is the truss rod 2-way, and what kind of a adjustment does it have? Wheel/nut?

...and where did the thread went? "You don't have the permission..." Has @Kiwi been talking to my ex?

Eight note overflow here! Slow down a bit @Bilbo!

Stolen from these pages. Last one could be about basses, too.

This may be from my faint memory. Ned Steinberger said in a interview, that he was trying to get rid of ghost notes. He cut a piece from the headstock, and continued it until there was no headstock left. Ghost notes rose to heights they were no more an issue. Headless design was found.

Headless may be doable, too. Although not all bodies work well with headless design.

Tuners to both sides of the headstock, like 3+1, 2+2, 3+2. I also like the idea, that the strings are inline from bridge to saddle to tuner. Zero fret and string retainer if needed, phosphorescent side dots are a must. I hate front dots/blocks. I am very bad in designing, that's why links: https://gb.pinterest.com/b25976y/guitar-headstock/ https://www.shutterstock.com/gb/search/guitar-headstock https://www.guitarpedalx.com/news/gpx-blog/the-shape-of-a-guitars-headstock-has-a-significant-impact-on-tuning-stability

As @bertbass wrote, it takes time to find the right gauge. 30-90 was very fun in the 80's. I have tried flats, tapes, bronze, nickel and SS RWs, groundwounds, exotic tunings, piccolo sets etc. I have listened to other people's comments about "the best" set, but in the 90's I started a comprehensive (and pricey!) test of different materials and gauges. B is 120 now, and as slapping isn't needed/wanted/popular anymore, the SS RW 40-95 has been the choice, for me, that is. Testing different sets is time consuming and costs a lot, but after that you know what you want. I use D'Addario and GHS, because of long scale basses, 34"-36". I know nickel would be very suitable for fretless, but I only buy two brands and two sets, and they are always at hand. I tend to change a set every 4-6 months depending on the use.

I bought an MM4 tinted in green with matt lacquer and no front markers. It has very good profile to my hands, and it is as wide as a P (checked this from Dawn). But they refused to sell any other headstock design. I had to ask for a Status neck (like a wide 5), but they said that all other neck designs are sold only as complete Status instruments. Fair game. I sold my first Status lined fretless neck years ago. It was a thin J that I didn't like so much, but this MM4 is excellent. I suppose @Kiwi has to specify the details, and then we'll see his selection of necks. Were the dimensions good or bad to me does not matter, his work matters and is super interesting.

If you start a loudness war, no wattage will be enough. Learn to play hard by thinking your stuff is hard. It is not done with volume, and it sounds very different, much better. (Hard to explain, but when you hear the difference, you understand this.) If something is not heard, lower all other channels, do NOT push more volume!

1) Connect mixer to the same outlet as everything else is to avoin ground loops. 2) Connect all cables. 3) Check that the main output ("MAIN MIX") is set to lowest. 4) Turn the units ON starting from the mixer, like the signal is flowing (while turning OFF, do it the opposite way, from speakers towards the microphones). This way you avoid pops that may come from the equipment. If you look at the desk, think the signal goes from top to bottom, and then from left to right. At this point every pot should be set to noon, and sliders to their lowest position. Connect a mic to the Channel 1. Set the slider to 0 dB. Start to talk something to the mic (1,2,3...) and slide the MAIN MIX until you hear something from the PA. If you hear nothing, check cables, slide MAIN MIX down and check that the power amp is ON, and the levels are set to noon. Try the MAIN MIX again. Do it slowly. If you get sound through the system, you should know something about the channel strip. GAIN sets the level of the channel and is dependent on the program (mic, line). You turn that clockwise until you get distortion to the sound, and then slightly back. Set and forget. Keep in mind that now is a good place to name the channels. If 1 is for your vocal mic, name it so. LOW CUT is very feasible for vocals, because feedback starts from the low end. Low frequencies are not needed so much with vocals. You can think that the full bandwidth is divided from the lowest frequencies like this: BD (bass drum), bass, guit/keys, vocals, high stuff like some percussions. If you push lots of stuff to vocal frequencies, the voice will need more power, or then it will be buried under that everything. This is approximate, and you have to make trials to understand this. With equalizer you can free more headroom to vocals. COMP is also useful with vocals, because it amplifies lowest levels and the highest are sort of limited. You get fuller vocals, but this effect needs some testing to get the best out of it. EQ, as I said earlier, feedback starts from low, and vocals don't go very low. Therefore you can cut LOW say 3-9 dB and emphasize HIGH like 3 dB. MIDS you need to test: this board has semi-parametric mids. While singing, test it by turning MID to -15 dB and turn the FREQ back and forth. Then turn MID to +9 dB and do the same. Some complicated spaces may benefit a lot from this MID/FREQ, if the sound is lacking something, or the feedback tries to push through. Use the MID/FREQ like a notch filter (-15 dB), and turn the FREQ to tame the feedback frequency. And if you turn all up, something is wrong. Separate EQ from GAIN. Use EQ to cut any problematic frequency. AUX is most likely not needed here, yet, but it is very usable feat with monitoring etc. You can think it like control of a monitor mixing level. FX is simply commanding the amount of effect you use. I suppose your favourite will be REVERB 01 HALL, because it makes the vocals fuller. See the upper right side of the mixer. Lots of effects may be fun for some time, but usually any effect should be spice, not an ingredient. PAN is a bit like balance in HiFi. With PAN you can adjust the stereo picture. From the hall side the leftmost singer will be panned a little towards to the left side (PAN is viewed from the hall, not stage). If you listen to 1950's up to early 1970's recordings, mixing could have been panned from side to side: "Let's put vocals to right corner along with bass and kazoo, drums should go to left, and so will rhythm guitar". This kind of mixing sounds very strange nowadays. If you need to mix anything past 9 dB, check why? Now you know the very basics, and the rest is using the system a lot. Try to understand the placings of the sources in the mix (PAN), and in the frequency bands (EQ). Then it is easier to make reasonable choices when something doesn't seem to work. Every room is different, and when you go out gigging, you may need to adjust EQ quite some. Remember to use your phone camera to reset the mixer to your basic settings (rehearsal place or similar). Every mixer works more or less like this, although they may look different prima vista. Just think a second, and you are ready to go. While doing everything in a similar way in the beginning, it will give you more self confidence to manage the system well. And it is very good way to learn while asking a seasoned person to help you. Hope this helps.

A mold costs around £3000-15000. It needs some fixing, and its lifetime depends on the material (cheap and soft aluminium, or hard and pricey steel). Therefore the real price will certainly be higher than the given cost. And as the 4 string bass is the most common (90 % of all basses?), I would start with it.

Which I think is so cheap: I would like to see shapes from other decades than 50's. I do not play surf. But commercially it most likely is the road to happiness.

Of all 4 string carbon necks I've played I like Status MM4 a lot because of its profile. Vigier Passion II has another good profile. This is naturally subjective, because I've heard someone to love Steinberger (feels awkward to me). Five string is a more complicated topic. Most of the necks are with 17 mm string spacing and it is too tight for me. Modulus has thin and very playable neck but I never felt the spacing comfortable. I have found that spacing varies between 14 and 21.5 mm from bass to bass, and (18-)19 mm feels the most natural (to me, that is). I think that a 18-19 mm spacing allows tighter spacing, too, if the bridge allows it. But 17 mm spacing will never make 19 mm possible when the neck dimensions hinder it. Scale lengths, I like to be on the longer side, 34-36". But the spacing and neck profile are much more important to me. Why have I chosen graphite over wood? Environmental stability. No need to adjust. Black looks good. Matt lacquer feels good under the thumb. Tinting or the top twill gives a nice touch. And I don't care about suitability to some body or neck pocket dimensions. Neck is the thing and everything else follows that. (Brass or steel screw inserts, please.)

1st 4001 GT MG Genesis 5 Vigier Passion series II DB Clevinger 5