itu

Advertising something that you are not being paid. Canikon, Fenquier...

My understanding is that you can attach as many bolts/inserts as you like. They are not pre-drilled.

Where did you find those angled connectors, @kiat? Good size!

- Gibson/Fender/Squier/Fodera, not only because they are overpriced, but they also look outdated - maple and light coloured fretboards - painted is another thing - too round necks - single cut bodies and "Beatle bass" - ridiculously overpriced "vintage" stuff - fashion things like Hartke, ADA, Markbass, tce amps, Warwick Corvette... - lousy electronics in the signal path including carbon track pots like Alpha, CTS... - terms "passive" and "active, when they most likely describe only the output of a bass: hi-Z, or lo-Z - cheapo reissues like Steinberger, Tobias... - (Fender) reissues branded to someone like Pastorius, Flea, Victor Bailey while they actually played something else in their well known career - the word "mojo" in any circumstance

If the store doesn't help you, find a friend that knows electronics. Exclude faulty components until you know for sure, what is broken. Maybe he can fix it for you? bartolini, Lollar, SD, EMG... there are lots of options available.

Where are my eyes when I need them... Thank you @AinsleyWalker!

To be honest, top build quality is not necessary from the US (yes, there are smaller companies like Suhr). But I am amazed how good sounding instruments they are able to push out from certain companies. We are waiting for pictures!

@Singular Audio: is this pedal able to drive line level inputs, too? Like amp's Return or Power amp IN?

...and how many did you have to buy, 5, 10?

MobileSheets Pro. Pay once and play a lot. Setlists, PDF, JPG, books with bookmarks... Used it for a few years, and works very well. I have maybe 5000 songs in there. No more papers.

To me, @ChrisDev (as well as @tomread) writes the song including repeats etc. I also like the key signatures, as they turn my head to the right direction from the start. @Bilbo, your score is more like, as you said, a road to somewhere. Chris' charts are compact and economical. [I was trained classically (piano, ages 5 - 18), and after that I went to play bass to a jazz and popular music school (found my instrument!) for four important years. I can read and play somewhat nowadays, but am far from an expert, because I make my living from technical R&D stuff (an engineer). I got tired of working strange hours, and so little money. I'm just a player, while you both are musicians.] I play in few bands (5 to 12 players), and the need for notes and arrangements is important. I do not remember every song by heart: one of the bands played 118 different songs last spring. There were maybe dozen gigs only. Quick changes in set lists also require the ability to read. All in all, I love your work and cordially thank you for your effort in helping this bass playing community to play lots of different music.

My problem is that there were no tabs in my youth. Therefore I never learned to read them well. It is easier to read notes, because that's how I was taught. All notation still lack lots of things starting from sounds.

This was one very interesting product. I couldn't find it from local shops, but your type number helped me to find and buy a few. Thank you Paul!

I do admit that sometimes tabs - even they are complex to read to me - may help with fingerings. It is interesting to see, how someone else is understanding and taming the fretboard.

A reasonable note. Therefore you write B flats (Bb), because of the jazz background. Geography, what do you mean by that?

That tab is already so close to an ordinary score: tempo is seen under the stave. But: four lines instead of five, and heads are numbers, not dots.

I've had bursitis. Doctor took a big syringe and some bloody liquid came out of the elbow. Didn't hurt but looked pretty awful. I had been hitting my hand, and the elbow reacted. After lessening the hits, that bursitis hasn't come back.

From the battery and the open battery snap. Then you can see, whether there's any leak.

Take the other half of the battery from the contact, and measure the current from the open contact. Should be zero.

Very interesting! There seems to be a few details where yours and @ChrisDev's differ. https://basslessons.be/transcriptions.php?i=349 It would be interesting to listen to your dialogue about the choices you both made with these transcriptions. Just to help us mortals when we try to construct ours.

Would you consider Standing in the shadows of Motown?

Carpenters and luthiers, close you eyes now, please. I do love inserts, but I have used M2.5 or M3 screws for pickups without inserts. If the wood is tough I have used a tap to make the thread straight to the wood after drilling the hole. Check Vigier strap button attachments: https://www.parts.vigierguitars.com/en/bodies_parts/153-vigier_parts_insert_for_strap_endpin_with_m4_screw.html

As obvious as it seems, a big power soldering iron is a must when soldering metal potentiometer or pickup covers, and other bigger metal areas. I would suggest 60 - 100 W. A cheap Weller is a lifelong choice. https://www.weller-tools.com/eu/gb/consumer/products/corded-soldering-irons

...with a maxi headstock! I just like longer scale.