itu

My problem is that there were no tabs in my youth. Therefore I never learned to read them well. It is easier to read notes, because that's how I was taught. All notation still lack lots of things starting from sounds.

This was one very interesting product. I couldn't find it from local shops, but your type number helped me to find and buy a few. Thank you Paul!

I do admit that sometimes tabs - even they are complex to read to me - may help with fingerings. It is interesting to see, how someone else is understanding and taming the fretboard.

A reasonable note. Therefore you write B flats (Bb), because of the jazz background. Geography, what do you mean by that?

That tab is already so close to an ordinary score: tempo is seen under the stave. But: four lines instead of five, and heads are numbers, not dots.

I've had bursitis. Doctor took a big syringe and some bloody liquid came out of the elbow. Didn't hurt but looked pretty awful. I had been hitting my hand, and the elbow reacted. After lessening the hits, that bursitis hasn't come back.

From the battery and the open battery snap. Then you can see, whether there's any leak.

Take the other half of the battery from the contact, and measure the current from the open contact. Should be zero.

Very interesting! There seems to be a few details where yours and @ChrisDev's differ. https://basslessons.be/transcriptions.php?i=349 It would be interesting to listen to your dialogue about the choices you both made with these transcriptions. Just to help us mortals when we try to construct ours.

Would you consider Standing in the shadows of Motown?

Carpenters and luthiers, close you eyes now, please. I do love inserts, but I have used M2.5 or M3 screws for pickups without inserts. If the wood is tough I have used a tap to make the thread straight to the wood after drilling the hole. Check Vigier strap button attachments: https://www.parts.vigierguitars.com/en/bodies_parts/153-vigier_parts_insert_for_strap_endpin_with_m4_screw.html

As obvious as it seems, a big power soldering iron is a must when soldering metal potentiometer or pickup covers, and other bigger metal areas. I would suggest 60 - 100 W. A cheap Weller is a lifelong choice. https://www.weller-tools.com/eu/gb/consumer/products/corded-soldering-irons

...with a maxi headstock! I just like longer scale.

I have played Elton John's songs and they are arranged so professionally, there's space for all instruments. But if a band just plays without thinking, the collisions are very likely. A pro arranger knows the problems in the low end, and is able to avoid them. Music physics is not magic, but some people can arrange music sound like magic.

...and as Artec is a plain tone stack, vol and balance are 250k or 500k. You can use them in lo-Z (active) and hi-Z (passive) modes. Therefore bypassing Artec would be very simple.

I might do at least a bypass to electronics in case of a battery failure, and to get a few more sounds. Ser/par (pickups) could be another extra. If you think a tone is a must, one rotary switch position could be passive with a trimmer and a cap. With trimmer you can adjust the amount of tone, and then you'd have a preset tone ready.

If you are into tinkering, use a rotary switch to get options like in Kubicki Ex-Factor: OFF/STAND-BY/ON... but like passive/active...

@Basvarken: what's the order of the strings? If I remember an old article right, playing with a pick or fingers defies the order. Is this true? With pick the downstroke hits the lowest first, and with fingers it's the other way around, yes/no?

There's an Ibanez Axstar and a Yahaya Motion here for sale that would fit your specs. Iba even has a 34" scale. Check them first. I have a partsbass with a Status neck. Because the neck is so stable, I detach it and pack it with the body to hand luggage. No one has asked about the neck coming out from the bag.

Like @ian61 said. Problem solved. The lower you go, the further the two instruments/notes must be. Frequency difference gets very small the lower you go. Therefore you should not get closer to the keys than a fifth, but an octave sure is safe. The same applies to chords played ɓy us bassists. You can make simple calculations by subtracting A4 from F4 (a major third), and then A1 from F1 (try this with your bass!). The difference in the lower end starts to resemble flanger, and the result is really mushy. Besides if there are any issues with tunings of different instruments, the result will be even worse. https://www.vibrationdata.com/piano.htm This is the musical theory reason why only one bassist is needed, and keyboardist should stay far enough. For the same reason there's theoretically space up there for two g-word players, but in practise...

If you open the case, you can check date codes from the opamps and other semiconductors.

It would be easiest to use a thin carbon fibre plate/strip. Weighs nothing, is stiff, and could be taped to pickups (3M VHB). Can be removed if necessary.

Pictures please, sharp ones. Do you have a DMM (Digital MultiMeter)? If yes, start measuring from output jack.