itu

15 strings could mean a harp bass. No frets, no fretboard at all.

Atlansia Overwater C bass was mentioned! Klein Bootsy Star bass

Jerry Auerswald Stenback Linc Luthier Spalt Pensa-Suhr Zon Manson (JPJ playing them)

My father decided to save machines and destroy young. He became a teacher. (But my grandfather was a player and had a garage until his death.)

Then, me as a player, and @agedhorse as a designer, we are interested in specs. Whether they are comparable or not is up to us players. We should want comparable, fair numbers, not marketing hype. 2 kW looks good, although it has not very good relation to reality, especially in this known case. And watts are not about loudness. dB is the right number, but without a cab and its specs, it cannot be given. (I understand marketing a bit here.) Try before you buy is the best option for us players. What is a problem, is the space where the combo is tried: I set my amp exactly the same way in big venues and in our rehearsal space, but the "thundering lows" are hidden for some reason (size matters) in the latter.

Couldn't you use a DIN7965 type of "screw" (threaded insert) in the body as an anchor? Then there would be no need to reach the insides of the bass? Maybe two M6s would be strong enough. M8s could be overkill. I use similar inserts in my electric bass bolt-on necks. To get more area under the bolts (DIN 7991), I have used spherical washers (DIN 6319). https://www.fasteners.eu/standards/din/7965/ Reminder: The slotted head is to go in first.

I am assuming this is a 3 x 5 string bass... Playing with a plectrum or fingers, then the order of the strings can be different. If there's a preferred string set (flat/RW, SS/Ni), I would start with that. Piccolo strings are pretty rare, there may be only few choices available. I suppose the bass has to be well made: to push three strings at once would feel harsh under the finger if the trio is far away from the fretboard. https://www.daddario.com/products/guitar/bass-guitar/xl-nickel-bass/exl280-nickel-wound-piccolo-bass-20-52-long-scale/

But the headline says: Final New Bass. Therefore you are still with us, belonging to Musicians Anonymous.

I have not used Dragster, although a pedal maker said that such units may not work well. Better alternative is to find a distortion that works with your basses. I tested several pedals after I found that not every pedal is functional with every bass.

There are still so many older units in use that it is more than common to go to a noisy stage.

Older drivers were not very good. Nowadays most are flickerless (400 Hz dimming is pretty common). They do not pollute surroundings that much anymore, although some chinese brands are not so well performing.

Any school that teaches hand craft skills should be kept alive at any price. A certain school pretty close to me was at the verge, but it managed through hardest times (Covid etc.). After about three years ago a local company was founded, and now the school has trouble to push enough of pupils through the courses that this company needs. Other companies have found these skilled people, too. Keep it up! Don't let far east to be the only source of knowledge and skills.

Take a rest. Repeat ad lib. Come back. We will be here.

Yes, I have, and I'm far from VIP, so...

How low a box could be built? Many units are pretty high, and would be not that easy to assemble under the board... or could the board be the power box as well?

Now what's that?! Kool!

75 m bolts! That's cool, where did you find them? From a submarine dockyard? The board looks cool, much cooler than with those printed parts.

Mobile Sheets Pro. Works well. Love the setlist archive. A new set is built in a minute from an old one.

W ≠ dB Not every rating equals loudness. Frequency response should also be approximately the same. Otherwise comparison is about apples and Samsungs.

Tokai has done a bolt-on copy of the Thumb. The headstock resembles Warwick's design, 26 fret neck etc. WB 680, and 750, just found from 1989 catalogue. https://guitar-catalog.com/guitar-and-amp/tokai/1989-vol15/sp_en_03.html

So very true. If you don't know how the meter works, it is not a tool at all. The same with an RTA.

A straightforward solution: buy a loudness meter. Not so straightforward issues are that the space, and placement of the meter affect levels a lot. Any colourization from the surroundings may give awkward levels. Professionals make the first test with RTA to get rid of the unwanted colouring. Then the level can be easily matched with a relatively simple meter. No need to buy a B&K.

That was tough! 10000 mentally challenged Dionne Peacewick Kenny Logouts Frankie comes from Hollywood