itu

The plate can be easily drilled...

That bridge is very flexible and technical: if you want you can use only two saddles. But what I didn't like was the adjustments. Take care of the Allen keys, any mismatch with sizes may result in a worn screw. I am pretty sure that the parts are not metric. The plate is aluminium. It is relatively soft. Tighten the sideway adjustment screws only after you have found exact places for individual saddles. Strings can be put to two different slots. String angle and length are different, if that helps. I messed with one bass' bridge position, and had to remove springs. One of those strange screws on top of the saddles anchor the intonation adjustments. All in all the bridge is functional and very flexible, but not my favourite. Nowadays I like Hipshot A style bridge better (19 mm, top loader, no sharp corners).

If that wasn't the case, the preamp would make a loud pop, when powered on. If I remember correctly Philip Kubicki made a preamp to his Ex-Factor basses where rotational switch has a stand-by (and mute) position before the sound is turned on. This removes pops.

On a rare side, alusonic 212 with a tweeter. Around 18 kg.

Dear @Hellzero, I do not know anything about that. I have only seen that publication, and pictures of his various basses.

I would take a look on this: https://www.jerzydrozdbasses.com/akcndfr54jdhrei567/Ultimate_Guide_ver100.pdf

It's a Sony, and definitely does not have 3 dB steps in vol. Do I have to turn on my B&K and measure the steps? No no... now you @Stub Mandrel have planted the seed... bugger.

I set the vol of the TV to 0, 3, 6, 9, 12... why on earth I decided to study acoustics?

(Boss) dist/reverb/X-over pedal for bass. Very small footprint vol/exp pedal that you can push down with your feet instead of those big rocker pedals. A spring loaded unit.

A shop full of headphones. Start from the most expensive. When you hear a difference in sound, take one step back. There you go. But hey, an emphasized bass? Maybe you should start from the cheapest, and when you don't hear that exaggerated bass, take one step back?

12AX7 = ECC83.

As you said you play a lot, use quality batteries. Duracell may cost a bit more, but it has more chemically packed electrons than most other brands. Cheapo batteries are a total waste just like cheapo basses.

Good intonation: - pro setup - (at least relatively) new strings - good touch (behind the fret, even pressure) If you want to dictate the accuracy of the intonation, buy a fretless. If you want minimal noise, remove instrument's pots and caps from the signal path. Use your recording equipment to make adjustments to the sound.

What I have seen through the years I'd say that for most the drugs and booze didn't do good. I knew very few that could be stoned and creative but very very few. Most of the users had serious problems after some time. Even the ones who survived hard use, seem to be teetotallers more or less. This creative thing has some sort of aura in many art circles, although the hardest working successful groups did really much work, ABBA, Beatles, Rolling Stones... The drug use has been, shall I say, glorified like creativity, but are the amounts that big after all? Can you do lots of work if you are stoned all the time, I doubt that. One record is most likely a nice accident, but five or more requires organized work for a long time.

The board pushes out lo-Z (low impedance) signal which is less prone to interference. The bass is naturally the first antenna in line. Is it shielded?

These suggestions are only common practises. May help, but not guaranteed.

Berry (Gordy - Motown).

PC is a noise generator. If you have any extra cables there, they act as antennas. Disconnect every cable that is not in use. You can try another wall outlet and some distance. If your instrument cables are not up to date, buy Sommer or Cordial with Neutrik plugs. FX board in use? That and the PSU can be antennas, or noise generators, too.

Start with a good cartridge. I prefer MM, as you can change stylus. If the turntable is steady runnin', you need think about the options: - speeds 16/33/45/78 - automatics (record size [7/10/12"], end stop, fully automatic...) - pitch adjustment is sometimes nice if you play along with records in standard tuning If your collection is LP/EP/singles, a simple 33/45 turntable with end stop would most probably work very well. Buy a good antistatic carbon brush! And I hate dust covers without decent hinges. 78 rpm records would benefit from a special needle and cartridge.

OK, I studied acoustics and electronics in the university. Worked in a broadcasting company. Did a digital audio and video testing handbook to the service personnel in the company with some help from BBC, as well as wrote a short handbook about MPEG-2 in the 90's while very few of you had even heard about audio coding or audio codecs, like MPEG-1 layer 3 (MP3) which is included in the MPEG-2. I may understand sound and perception a little bit, thank you.

Vigier Passion with: - a carbon neck - 5 string wide neck (the same spacing as the 4) - 4 string size body - lightweight (as I already own a 4 string Passion, double these with Delta metal fretlesses)

Let's put it this way: 1) I want to change volume and volume only. Not tone. 2) I want to change treble and keep it that way, no matter at which volume, or blend setting. List goes on. If any adjustment affects other adjustments, it does not work right. Tonal flexibility means that I can rely on what is happening when I dial my sound from the bass. Would you buy a mixer where changes in level and balance make changes to the equalizer? [If "passive" means £5 parts (excluding pickups), and "active" means £10 tone stack and a £2 battery holder to the bass, me want more. A. Jackson removed all sound degrading components between the pickup and the studio board for reason.]

Beautiful hands!

Paint pen, nail lacquer... extra resistor in series with the LED. A trimmer would let you dial in the right amount of light.

The point is that with the buffered mixing you get the sound of individual pickups, not their electrical interaction. No matter in which position the pots are. I see too many variables in hi-Z blend+vol, and the tone on top of that. EMG has a few circuits of which the cheapest are just pots. But their systems include active mixing, too.