itu

To get a set that is even close to a similar strings overall, I would start with the tension guide by D'Addario. I know it's an old one but gives an idea of what you are after. If this link does not work, find it with words: "daddario tension chart" and add that 13934 if needed. You may use any brand strings, and this chart gives you the idea and ballpark of different tensions. Therefore this is usable with other string brands, too. This tool is actually easy to read after you dive into it. I suggest you to write down tensions of your existing set of EADG, and fill it with an approximately similar tension C- or B-string. https://www.daddario.com/globalassets/pdfs/accessories/tension_chart_13934.pdf?srsltid=AfmBOoon9UF-qjBiCO7W25qfGAnh8Qgi16HlyVJtSFjRCVpWHV3TVHaZ

MG has used several brands over the years, like Villex, bartolini, EMG, and Lane Poor... I do not recall SD, but why not? After all the company is known from custom basses.

A '96 with a truss rod? Sure? Got a pic of your bass? Do you play with very high action? If the bridge adjustments, and neck shimming do not help, you need to change strings. I've had no issues with graphite necks (2 x MG, 2 x Vigier, 1 x Status copy), truss rod or not. I had the bridge changed in the factory when they planed the top of my then Q5. That Gotoh wasn't very good, but the Hipshot was. Easier to adjust and better adjustments.

"It doesn't fit my playing style so it is faulty!" The first thing after buying a bass is I change strings to my preference (and clean the fretboard). Then I check bridge adjustments (height, tuning, width). I play the bass one week and adjust truss rod, if necessary, and if there's one. Cost: some time, and a string set.

I think (my opinion is purely subjective) that F-logo in the headstock means +20-40 % to the price, no matter how good or bad the instrument is. My choice is another - and qualitywise more even - manufacturer. Those so called vintage basses are already a joke to me: Leo's original idea was to make a very cheap instrument that is easy to assemble in a factory. And I don't like that surf aesthetics that much.

I love to see these! (without price tags)

I do wait @disssa's creations to be seen here, but that Warhammer RAT is very good!

Kaamos = the time when the sun does not rise during wintertime in the north. Has to be one dark sounding unit.

Robust power-chord from E? Where was my coat?

Your bands may be different. I know my people.

An extension with a switch is no go for stage use. Will be destroyed in months.

Lots of questions, I try to answer just few. Converting to fretless, my advice: turn to a pro if you do not have decent tools. In a youtube video conversion may seem easy. Madinter is a good company to source materials. I bought Blackwood to my fretless, but a pro installed it. 2.1 Cocktail sticks and glue is a tried and true way. 2.3 Painting, a good quality paint pays itself already in the beginning. 5 € bottle compared to a 30 € paint, there really is a reason for the price difference. If you buy two or three bottles from a pro paint shop where they mix it while waiting, the colour is the same. Some cheap bottle that has stayed in the shelf for months may be whatever. 3.1 If you are after a cheap solution, buy a bass from California Music, Thomann, or similar shop. Zikinf may be a good source to find used stuff. Building is fun, but cheap it isn't.

Have to say that your bass has to be enormous! Bridge width 850 mm = 85 cm! Again, using a similar bridge wouldn't be my choice. Some glue and cocktail sticks would fill old holes... as the saddles are tuned so far back, it might be feasible to set the bridge backwards, in case you really want to use a similar unit. And then a better bridge could be in order.

NOOOO! It is very important to understand how much the music and surroundings affect the result. I once went to see Billy Sheehan with Steve Vai, and them combined with overwhelming volume in a concrete hall made me leave the house. Tickets were expensive, but the noise was horrible. I suppose those guys are professionals, but their sound crew wasn't.

Once at our singer's house. Yes, a bit of booze was involved. Others woke me up, while I was still playing at that super soft sofa.

1) Glue will not help. Period. 2) @lemmywinks said it already. 3) When choosing a new bridge, consider a top-loader, like this one: https://www.thomann.co.uk/gotoh_404sj_c_bass_bridge.htm If you want to do trials with different string sets or use sometimes flats/grounds/RW/SSRW, it is far easier to make changes.

Excellent, thank you very much!

Yesterday I had nothing but a comp and that metallic green, two-knob DOD FX25 with me in rehearsal. Yes, it makes a good quack, but sometimes worked like a too tightly adjusted comp, and it cut the sound. Wonderful sound, but has to be adjusted carefully. Not as wild as IE.

But Mick Karn's was something uncommon, wait... tulip. Wasn't his bass a one off, because of that wood?

I downright love that wood!

I have old Js in my 5-string. Dark, full sound, which I really like. If you are after some zing and snappy slap sound, try something different.

I have to say, that most of the basses mentioned here weren't good for me. Biggest issue were those necks. A neck has to be wide for me (19 mm spacing). MTD is kool, and Kingstons are affordable. Mine is an MG Genesis, but from the same Michael's drawing board. Could be a tad lighter, but a stable neck that is wide enough was the thing. I also like humbuckers, but 2xJ is OK.

I would suggest an An ABY*, that is. Two signals in, one out. Mechanical switch. Some have LEDs, too. I think prices start from £20 or so. *An ABY box, or an abyssinian cat

@tubbybloke68, is there any chance to get a picture of that fretless? That top looks good.