nilebodgers

Does the display show "P" (protection mode) or "H" (thermal/heat mode)? (no valves in a RH450)

I tweak small amounts under tension, no problem. I'd detune a bit before bigger adjustments though. When my old Yam that had been untouched for 10+ years needed bringing back to life I removed all string tension first as it needed a right cranking, it was more like a longbow than a bass.

FWIW "factory spec" is 6/64in (2.4mm). I like mine a touch lower, but the important thing is that it is set to your taste

12thou (0.3mm) on both my p-bass and old yam BB. The "right" amount depends on how hard you play and how much buzz you can tolerate - 12thou works for me (quite heavy handed, happy with 5/64-ish (2mm) action), but YMMV.

Be very careful, I managed to screw up badly trying to re-glue a seam on a carpet covered cab doing just that! Melted ratfur is not a good look...

Be useful to see it on a jazz if you don't mind posting a pic 🙂

The amazon reviews say the leather end tabs are really thin and stretch where they clip round the strap buttons - how are they in your opinion (e.g. with a heavy bass)? Do you use straplocks and if so, which ones?

Those tuner angles are rather strange (IMO).

There is a great program called Transcribe that will do that. (Plus looping etc.)

Yes, I've got a TC RH450 and my single (low) bass cab and the TC enclosure lip means I have to bend over to see the tuner display which is pretty awkward (old-git varifocals make it worse as I have to get the angle right to focus properly). If I was using it live I'd use a floor-based tuner.

Can UMG prove that they own the rights to any of that music if they can't produce the masters?

I had an old Aria SB for many years but I was never happy with it and it wasn't until I started trying other basses that I worked out it was the narrow bridge spacing that was putting me off. When I tried a bass with a 19mm spaced bridge it was immediately comfortable.

A switch is advisable to be able to safely isolate the unit. An indicator LED on the thermal monitor pin would also be useful, although how important that is depends whether the module in the cabinet can be thermalled in any likely use. If the module can be force ventilated by the port air movement that would help 👍 One thing that occured to me after a bit of googling - are the Chinese counterfeiting the icepower modules? They appear to be suspicously cheap on ebay compared to a real uk distributor (Profusion).

Precisely this. I have a GP12SMX 4x10 combo, but I can't lift it and get it in and out of the car without wrecking my back. Sounds awesome and is loud enough for any gig I will ever play, but I can't use it

Good interview. I heard an interview with Wilko Johnson a while back. When he was asked if he used pedals he answered: "What do you think I am, a cyclist???"

The ad reads as awful corporate BS-speak. It's a tricky thing to do expanding the management team when the business is so focussed on the founder/CEO, releasing some control to people that may have different opinions is not easy, but has to be done to grow the business beyond the reach of one arm (so to speak).

What is the story behind the intriguing mutant pickups on the left? (I have one of the later less-desirable models after they shifted production outside Japan - sounds and plays the same though)

Based on my 2012 model, Mim p-bass is ceramic. They do sound pretty good though. The Fender "original" alnico p-bass pickup I replaced it with is slightly better to my ear, but it's not a night & day difference.

Wow - that must be cut seriously low. Typical clearance over the 1st fret is 0.5 - 0.6mm, so adding 1mm would surely make it really stiff to play on the lowest frets?

How much relief has it got at the moment?

Best stand well back....

Lol - yes, but I have an amp and no cabs!

And there is a transitional period where they were made in Taiwan with parts from the Japanese version - the black one in the link is like that, you can tell by the pickups.