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nilebodgers

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Everything posted by nilebodgers

  1. nilebodgers
    And there is a transitional period where they were made in Taiwan with parts from the Japanese version - the black one in the link is like that, you can tell by the pickups.
  2. nilebodgers
    Lol! I've just duplicated a post and went to delete it....oh, that feature's gone ;-)
  3. nilebodgers
    Plus 1 to the bridge spacing being the most important factor. I had an old Aria SB700 and I just couldn't get on with it due to the very narrow bridge spacing. The 19mm P/J spacing is perfect and I'm not that sensitive to nut width or neck shape if the bridge is right.
  4. nilebodgers
    HPs playing with the Specials is great. I've been playing Niteklub recently and I love that bassline.
  5. nilebodgers
    Oh yeah - I'd missed that. Those single cut designs are utterly hideous. All the ones I have seen fail my "coffee table/exotic wood" criteria, but if one snuck through by having a plain painted finish I'd have to fail it on "single cut".
  6. nilebodgers
    Lol - yes. Similar list minus the Ricks & LP shapes (like the T-bird though), but plus the Stingray. I don't like natural wood finishes, anything that looks like a ridiculous coffee table or any fake relicing (which handily rules out almost all the really expensive basses).
  7. nilebodgers
    Yes, that looks right. The 3-note pattern never lets up. It must have been quite hard playing live to resist going off on a double-time walking outro.
  8. nilebodgers
    Looking at more ruts dc vids it looks like he is hitting the open D, so you are right. I heard it as D myself, but then I second-guessed myself into the chord tone. It's interesting watching bands covering this on youtube, none of the bass lines are correct, and all the tab is wrong too.
  9. nilebodgers
    I've been fiddling around with it and I get this: It looks to me like the 5th fret D's are played on the open string by Segs (looking at some of the later Ruts DC video). I find it easier to fret the note.
  10. nilebodgers
    Nice version! I've not heard that one before. I'm very partial to music from that era, good stuff.
  11. nilebodgers
    You'd probably be better off returning it to stock and flogging off the upgrades separately.
  12. nilebodgers
    ??or does the footprint of the tuner stick out over the edge of the headstock??
  13. nilebodgers
    That is tracking UK inflation exactly: £1,600 in 2009 is £2,031.12 today.
  14. nilebodgers
    See useful BB bass info attached!
  15. nilebodgers
    It's hard to see the practical difference between the 60s P-bass and a Mexi Standard with a new pickup, a set of hipshot HB7 tuners and a good setup....apart from a thousand quid ;-)
  16. nilebodgers
    I think it went down to £200-ish, but were mostly in the 200-350 range. You'd expect those not to suck at that price point so not exactly a surprise.
  17. nilebodgers
    Interesting. There was supposed to be an rare transitional period when they switched them to Taiwan, but used up remaining Japanese pickups. The bridge side of the J rout on yours defo looks like one of those. There is a facebook group for 70s-80s Yam basses which has good info https://www.facebook.com/groups/219406111488370/ (there is a white BB1100s post on 20th Nov that has the later pickups - there is a good discussion of getting the right tool for adjusting the truss rod).
  18. nilebodgers
    Unfortunately they all sound awful with that distortion he was using.
  19. nilebodgers
    That is an interesting set of mods, I have a BB1100s too, but stock. Was that a Japanese one that had the surrounds round the P and J pickups, or a Taiwanese one (like mine - no surrounds) and you made your own? I find that the stock P pickup is pretty good, but you are right about the J pickup - it is a bit thin. I only use mine in P mode (passive) or maybe P+J (active).
  20. nilebodgers
    Absolutely. I bought a s/h MiM Strat that the seller said had some fret buzz and had priced a bit cheaper than normal. There is a high fret up at the dusty end causing it, but that will be gone after I do a level+crown+polish. Apart from that it is in great condition and I was very pleased with the seller's honesty.
  21. nilebodgers
    No, they should be parallel to the baseplate as there is otherwise different forces on the screws and the string can slip sideways (esp. on a vintage threaded saddle) or the screw under least tension can work loose. The exception is the vintage saddles that have pairs of strings on a saddle, they have to be tilted to follow the fretboard radius, but there is a lot of downforce on the saddle so they don't move.
  22. nilebodgers
    Nice colour. What is up with the G-string bridge saddle?
  23. nilebodgers
    LOL - yes. Mind you, they don't say what kind of dream - could be a nightmare?
  24. nilebodgers
    There's plenty of same-day courier companies that will transport things as carefully as you like. The cost depends on how you define sensible - wouldn't make sense for a £500 instrument, but it definitely would for a £5000 one.
  25. nilebodgers
    It's got to be concern about either damage via couriers or fraudulent damage claims where paypal/ebay almost always side with the buyer. (plus the large commission too) Packing an instrument to survive shipping is also pretty time-consuming if you don't have the specialist boxes that manufacturers use. It took me ages last time as I had to first make a box out of several others that were too small and then use loads of bubble wrap to make it drop-proof.
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