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  1. On line it says the Jazz pickup is the latest noiseless one - is it that that sounds dull, or the P-pickup, or both?
  2. Level B doesn't do anything unless the 2nd channel (Gain B) is active. If you were using the FX return as an input only then you'd leave the amp in the 1st channel mode so Level B is out of circuit and only the overall Master affects the output. The helix would still need to be in line level output mode to drive the MB800 hard enough going in via the FX return.
  3. Try setting to output to "line" level? (assuming that you can on one of those)
  4. I look sadly at my 4x10 SMX combo from time to time, It's a lovely thing but I can't see any way of ever being to use it ☹️
  5. I originally learned to play bass before there were any affordable tuners. Trying to get the rest of the band to shut up long enough to tune by harmonics and ear was a nightmare. That is one bit of the good old days I'm certainly not going back to!
  6. I'd agree with everyone else that has said some kind of P-Bass or J-Bass as a starting point. You can't go very wrong with either as a first bass. Ordinary nickel roundwound strings would be a good start, you can always turn the tone knob to take the high zing off if that is what you need to do to get a sound you like. Getting a good bass setup is very important though. If your bass is very hard to play (e.g. very high action or string height at the nut is too high) you are less likely to stick with it. For an amp I'd recommend something simple with a headphone socket and an aux input so you can connect a PC/iPad/whatever to allow you to play along with backing tracks or youTube lessons without annoying anyone else. I personally use headphones a lot as it is so revealing of sloppy muting or imprecise playing, it's a lot easier to fudge things with normal amplification. Also - get a tuner and get used to being in tune whenever you play.
  7. Interesting, I saw the Talking bass course but didn't want to spend the money if I wasn't sure I'd finish it. I'm inching my way through the Ed Friedland book at the moment ("building walking bass lines"). I have had it for years, but never seemed to get round to applying myself to it until recently when I got back into bass again. The problem I have (apart from being really bad at reading music) is that I get distracted by cool funky basslines I can learn on YouTube & play quite convincingly rather than fumble my way through Jazz that I can hardly play at all.
  8. I have done a similar thing on my 2012 mim P-bass (rosewood f’board). Stock it had a very square edge which dug in to my fingers, so I rounded it over slightly and that fixed the problem completely. I’d be very cautious doing that with a maple fingerboard though as it would take the protective varnish off and it could end up with discolouration where the hands touch the bare wood edge of the board. If I attempted it I think I would try and use some thin coats of wipe-on clear poly to protect the sanded bit.
  9. My oldest guitar lead is a (blue) Klotz+Neutrik - it's 30 years old and good as new. I currently like the Van Damme XKE (classic instrument) cable, it's just as good and similar flexibility to the equivalent Klotz. (both have the extra semiconducting plastic shielding layer to reduce handling noise) I always make my own cables, I'd never buy anything like that from a guitar shop.
  10. Awesome song. There is a lesson on youtube from "Cambridge Bass Lessons" on it. This is a cracking modern Ska/Punk track that is great fun to play:
  11. Interesting. I've got one waiting to fit to my mexi P. I've got an Fender "original 62" (not the cs62) in there at the mo which I like, but its maybe a touch too "clanky" for my taste. For the price of the Tonerider I thought I'd give it a try.
  12. +1 to the 'plucking the octave note' suggestion. Talkingbass.net has a lesson on "disco octave" basslines that would be well worth a look.
  13. Good point. A lot of online discussion of setup parameters ignores this completely - a vibrating string has to have room to vibrate. I can get down to about 2mm at the 17th fret without significant buzzing (on a neck with perfectly level frets and about 0.3mm relief), but that's the lowest I can go due to my inherent heavy-handedness.
  14. That Sire is really extreme. I just like it rounded to the point that there isn't a sharp edge that digs in to my fingers.
  15. Mini angle grinder will make short work of the bolt if you can get it in there.
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