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nilebodgers

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  1. Not if you are putting it up on a brick wall where there is a good chance there is a mortar gap at any point you try and drill (due to sods law). You can also use very strong beefy fixings on a board vs a hanger.
  2. The middle lug is connected to ground when one pickup is turned off. Since the middle lugs are connected together the other one is connected to ground too so there can be no output.
  3. That loom won't work. When one pickup is turned completely off the other one is turned off too.
  4. It's both truss rod and saddles done in the correct sequence - see this series of videos:
  5. For a standard Fender-style bass: capo on 1st fret, hold string down at 17th fret and a 12thou / 0.3mm feeler gauge should just slip in at the 8th fret when the truss rod is adjusted correctly. Some people prefer more or less relief than that, but it’s a good starting point.
  6. ..and don't pay snake oil prices for them e.g. https://cpc.farnell.com/vishay/2222-368-45473/capacitor-0-047uf-250v-5pk/dp/CA05369?st=vishay poly capacitor
  7. Yes, that is a good series. He has also done one, also very thorough, on refretting a Strat. However - I remain unconvinced on the basic premise of the Stewmac neck jig. This discussion shows some of the points raised: http://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3326
  8. Well, it's not that much rocket science IMO - assuming some practice and care. (watch some of "Daves World of Fun Stuff" channel - there are loads of examples of him doing various degrees of fret dressing with different tools and techniques over the years)
  9. It's not very difficult if you have the right tools, but it needs practice to get the feel for it. There are loads of youtube videos demonstrating the process, but it is not as easy as a skilled person makes it look. If you have a cheap bass to learn on and don't mind investing in the basic tools (notched straight edge, levelling beam, assorted abrasives, crowning file(s), fret rocker, masking tape etc.) then it's do-able. It's very satisfying being able to buy an instrument that is a bit rough and totally transform it into a great player.
  10. Phew! Well done @Paul S for buying it. I saw it earlier and I was really tempted but I already have one new P-bass pickup in the queue to try first!
  11. I got my most recent ones from Axecaster on Ebay, but there are loads of UK sources.
  12. Feeler gauges plus a capo for checking neck relief. The right size allen keys for adjusting truss rod and bridge saddles. A way of measuring string height. Something to polish frets (the crimson guitars fret rubbers are ace) and one of the metal fingerboard guards, After that it depends what needs fixing. Nut files next then probably the kit to deal with frets, although that depends on how low you try and push the action down, you might not get to the point that slight fret unevenness causes problems. (or the frets may be level already)
  13. Check there is a star washer on the back. They sometimes get left out on manufacture and that means the jack is prone to work loose over time. (e.g. https://www.axecaster.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=327)
  14. Hmmm...just retrieved my verniers from the shed. The slot in the post is only 2.5mm wide, so I could get a 2.4mm drill in there from the slot end, but the hole is close to the width of the slot anyway so It's debatable if the difference is worth the effort. (a 2.5mm goes, but it is a bit bind-y on the edges of the slot, so that would need clamping well in a pillar drill) I have HB7s on my other MIM bass and the slot in the post is 3.8mm with a larger hole too. (The much higher gear ratio and adjustable tension makes them nicer to use as well as the ease of stringing up.) This is going to end up with me buying a set of HB7s isn't it? 🙄
  15. Idly wondering - anyone tried drilling a larger centre hole in a split-post MIM fender tuner? The holes are a bit small for the E & A strings, especially if the strings aren't very tapered. The old-style tuners (and Hipshot HB7 if I want to do the easy upgrade) have larger centre holes so it is less fiddly fitting the string. Minor things I know, but it annoys me every time I change strings!
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