nilebodgers

I was noodling around on my B1-4 this week and the octaver into a distortion patch came up with a pretty convincing sound for a modern pop/dance track cover. I wonder how much better a separate octaver would be? The B1-4 gets a bit warbly if you go too low or sustain the note too long.

LOL. IMO the time for gear that requires a risk assessment and a manual handling training course to move around is over.

I’ve got no problem with a certain amount of studio artifice, that’s part of the creative process IMO. No problem either with the fix ups, makes sense economically and this has always been done anyway. It’s a lot easier now with digital workstations than having to do manual dropins to fix a duff note or timing.

Over-quantising is annoying too when it squashes all the human element out of the music. The Rick Beato YouTube video on that topic is illuminating where he shows how it is done in protools. Having said that, I don’t mind a bit of really thumping dance music when I am in the mood and that is as artificial as it comes.

That’s the exaggerated version of the process used as an effect. I thought it sounded like a cool effect on Cher when I first heard that song. It sounds like a hack cliche now.

I’m old-school in my opinions. If a singer requires pitch correction then they should keep their mouth shut and seek other employment. I’ve got no problem with odd/quirky singing voices, but being in tune is non-negotiable.

It won’t. Any competently designed solid state amp should be able to light up like a Xmas tree and be soundly thrashed without skipping a beat provided it is operated into the rated load impedance. The speakers are a different story, if their thermal limit or physical cone excursion limit is exceeded then they are toast.

I've seen a few youtubers that wear specs trying to use the ring lights and the location has to be just right to avoid reflecting off the lenses which looks pants. OK if you use contacts or are not speccy though.

If you are a paid sideperson then some kind of expectation of the kind of instrument could be in order. If it’s a band of randoms then absolutely not. However, if the sound isn’t working then changing it in some way would be acceptable - the OP said as much. What that change is and how much it costs is no-one else’s business though.

Yes, I was wondering about a Helix Stomp or similar - that works out cheaper than discrete pedals and would allow switchable patches.

I'm from a no-FX playing background and I'd never taken much notice of pedals. I watched this and was surprised to hear what could be done with an octave pedal, a distortion and an envelope filter. That has certainly given me ideas (and GAS).

Genius - thanks!

Yeah, I’ve seen quite a few people mention doing that. I sell the gear I’m not going to ever use or can’t store/transport, but I keep a gigable rig to hand even though I haven’t played live in years. (Although to caveat that - I only have a single 2x10 cab, there are circumstances where I may add a cab and then move it on if that changes.)

I was trying to transcribe the bass part on a dance track and got into all kinds of trouble. It's a straight 4/4 beat underlying, but the bass is doing something more complex rhythmically. I think it is a polyrhythm where it puts 4 beats in the first 3 of the bar, but I have no idea how to notate it. I have attached a short clip - anyone know how this would be transcribed? Dance Track Segment.mp3

Anyone else seen this yet?

I usually level single frets with a 3-corner crowning file - the Crimson one would be fine ("Traditional Fret Crowning 3-Corner File"), although I made my own. Could be any narrow smooth-cut file that can work on a single fret without touching the ones either side. I'd use neither of those 3" or 6" Crimson files, for a full level I always use a beam (mine are from GMI off ebay) as a fine grit paper can be used (I use 320) so it chews the frets up much less than a file and takes a lot less time to get the scratches out after crowning (especially if you use a diamond crowning file). I've always used a notched straight edge to get the neck straight although I have a conventional straight edge too if the fretboard is very uneven and I can't get it straight enough. I've not needed it yet. However, this is only what I have done that I know works for me - there are lots of ways of achieving good results in fret levelling - I have seen people use files, beams or radius blocks and do a nice job. I like using a beam as it is most forgiving and adaptable to fretboard radius. Ditto the many different ways of crowning - all can work well.

I'm talking to myself LOL. I bought the USA Jazz, only s/h because an opportunity came up to get just what I wanted at a much better price than new. The fact is that it plays and sounds better than my old MIM and I quickly realised that I would not have touched that again and have moved it on already rather than have it sitting around unplayed.

I'd also advise finding one of the forum members nearby to you that will help with doing a basic setup (there is a thread with a list somwewhere). If you are a beginner it's hard to know what is normal/acceptable for playing action and getting that right from the start is going to make things much easier.

I agree with Lozz that the current Mex Fenders are very good. I've now got a 2017 US Jazz and a 2012 Mex P and the P plays just as nicely as the Jazz. However, I had to do a bit of fret work and soften the hard 90deg edge on the P fingerboard where the Jazz was perfect from the off. The Jazz did cost 2.5 times more than the P though, so a bit more work to get it right isn't out of order IMO (both s/h). I previously had a 2008 Mex Jazz and it was definitely a step down both in build quality and playability so Fender have upped their game in recent years with their Mex ranges.

The process of reclaiming the VAT on a return isn't clear either. I couldn't find a sensible explanation on HMRCs website, it was so slanted toward VAT-registered entities, not Joe Punter returning his faulty kit to a non-UK retailer.

I'd try it with a phone charger first. If that works and there is no added noise/interference then you are good to go with minimal outlay.

Steinberg UR22mk2 has an optional 5V supply input using micro usb. It doesn't come with an external psu though so you'd have to source one.

Note that a tuning peg tension tool is worth it's weight in gold. I'd love to have both it and the proper truss rod tool. (I have modified various sockets to fit, but they are still not quite right as they need to be both long and very thin-walled.)

This:

Klotz cable is excellent. The main thing to watch out for is that the NL4 connectors are genuine Neutrik. There are lots of abysmal knockoffs that make poor connections or leave bits of themselves in the mating connector.