Bigguy2017

After decades of using Weller irons which used to last well but don't any more, I tried the Solomon (Pensol) soldering stations. SOLOMON SL-20 SOLOMON SL-30 with temp display They are cheaper than Weller, more reliable and even better in use. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soldering-station-48W-230V-24V-SL20-N-Solomon/173401940969?epid=5007755123&hash=item285f8fa3e9:g:11EAAOSwAOdbQzUF&frcectupt=true https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soldering-station-48W-230V-24V-SL30-N-Solomon/113140790265?epid=2278796353&hash=item1a57b773f9:g:m6kAAOSwkyxbQzUF&frcectupt=true Hakko are excellent too.

I did not see that... time to get my specs re-calibrated I think.

Me too. 1. It has no fingerboard and is unplayable as a bass guitar. 2. that construction isn't going to last a week - no truss rod, it will slowly fold up on itself.

Now that's what I call a fretless...

Could be a dry solder joint. Check the soldering between the grey connector and the PCB.

Make up a couple of XLR to TS jack cables; wire XLR2 to jack tip wire XLR3 to jack sleeve wire XLR1 to cable screen and do not connect at jack plug. Balanced signals don't actually need the screen - the signal is the difference between hot and cold. The above cables will be screened via the mixer.

Can you just squeeze the ball end in a vice?

How deep do you need it to be? See https://cpc.farnell.com/search?st=rack shelf https://cpc.farnell.com/cannon-technologies/341c01601900/modem-shelf-1u-190-deep-vented/dp/EN84815?st=rack shelf https://cpc.farnell.com/rackz/su01-wmr/1u-shelf-shallow-wall-rack-200mm/dp/EN82585?st=rack shelf

Another method I have successfully used with tricky headphone and radio mic cables is; 1. scrape off any lacquer insulation 2. take a single strand of copper wire (from a stranded cable) and wrap it around the wire to be soldered. Carefully wrap a 'ferrule' a bit like the end of a shoelace. 3. tin and solder as usual

I've got the passive version MIM FSR Special Deluxe. Agree it's a great bass with an exceptional neck. Yes, the pickups have hugely different volumes - because of this I swapped the stock noiseless J Pup for a DiMarzio Ultra Jazz and they now produce similar volumes. I actually prefer it to my MIA US Standard Precision - it's more lively and responsive.

Borrow another amp, something punchy and neutral. tc BH 250 or 500 Crank it up and see what happens. Oh, and try a bog standard Precision too... 😉

The bridge (Jazz) pickup (Fender noiseless) on my MIM Precision Special Deluxe FSR bass has a low weedy output. I generally use the P pickup which is very good - almost on a par with my MIA 2017 P Bass so I've not bothered too much. Finally decided to see if the bridge pickup could be made usable... tried height adjustment and still no good, so... decided on a DiMarzio Ultra Jazz DP148BK replacement. Swapped it out this morning, (no need to remove the strings, just slacken them and work the scratchplate out). Results are good - level is now the same from both pickups. J PUP on its own is kind of honky, as expected so near the bridge, but blends well with the P PUP. One weird thing was the PUP phase - using DiMarzio's wiring (red hot, green ground, black + white commoned) sounded very out-of-phase but reversed sounded perfect. I had to open the PUP's mounting holes to 3.5mm to get the PUP to sit level - the screws were put in a bit squint at the factory. Original Fender noiseless pickup DiMarzio Ultra Jazz pickup wiring as found - swapped Red + Green for correct phase I'd recommend this swap for anyone looking for more output from a PJ's bridge pickup.

I had a Fender Precision on order from the USA in Buzz Music, Hereford in 1980, price at £350 I got finally tired of waiting and did a deal on a Musicman Stingray for £375. Awesome bass which I gigged with for several years.

Yes you could - how much more? Well, that would depend on the bass body shape; all mine have rounded bottoms and would go an extra 20mm - not sure with a T'bird or other shapes. If you take the back bar out you can offer it up in different positions to experiment...

You'd think a custom builder would try to get the scratch plate and control plates to line up.

See page 12 in the manual... http://cdn-downloads.tcelectronic.com/media/216299/tc_electronic_bh500_manual_english.pdf

CPC do the Penn Elcom range which are solid pro grade. 2" ones here at £5 each https://cpc.farnell.com/penn-elcom/w0960/grey-swivel-castor-50mm-40kg/dp/TL12234?st=castors

Rickysounds have genuine replacements in stock... 4000 Bridge Pickup Adjuster screw http://www.rickysounds.co.uk/Fittings.html at an eye-wateringly expensive £5.99 per screw!! They'll be some imperial size an a few pence from a fixing supplier... Part number is 05106, but no, I don't know the size and length Pick-0-the-rics (USA) do them Rickenbacker Pickup Mounting Screw Treble Pickup (Bass Guitar) 05106 http://www.pickofthericks.com/categories/Rickenbacker-Parts/Rickenbacker-Hardware/Rickenbacker-Screws/ $1 each - might be worth ordering...

Audio Technica ATH-M50X are good with bass. Closed backs, good isolation and excellent for general music. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50X-Monitor-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1544448590&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=audio+technica+atm-50

The StewMac shims are excellent, albeit pricey as delivered from the US. https://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Bodies_and_Necks_and_Wood/Electric_Bass_Bodies_and_Necks_and_Wood/Bass_Necks/StewMac_Neck_Shims_for_Bass.html The 0.25 degree shim was perfect for my Stingray whose original factory shim had embossed itself flush into the neck pocket over 30 plus years...

For genuine Sony pads try Canford. https://www.canford.co.uk/Products/54-452_SONY-SPARE-EARPAD-For-MDR-7506-1-headphones Not cheap at £13.44 per ear, plus VAT... Otherwise, generics on Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2/257-1466215-2577518?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=MDR-7506+earpads