~tl

Found this manual for the Trace Mk. V gear and it says that 4Ω is the minimum impedance, so 2x 8Ω cabs should be fine: [url="http://www.britishaudioservice.com/inst/MK%20V%20GP11.pdf"]http://www.britishaudioservice.com/inst/MK%20V%20GP11.pdf[/url]

I would guess that you can run a single 8Ω cabinet from each jack (for a total of 4Ω assuming the jacks are wired in parallel), though the label isn't exactly clear.

More BB, but this version from the first Crossroads DVD is great too:

[quote name='budget bassist' post='471086' date='Apr 23 2009, 09:07 PM']looking good that previous body was rather fooked eh??!![/quote] It looks like the control route was done with a spoon...

You might want to take a look at Alex's [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showforum=73"]Barefaced[/url] cabinets too, the people who have them seem to hold them in high regards and they seem to be marketed as capable 4x10 replacements.

[quote name='KASH' post='470124' date='Apr 22 2009, 10:23 PM']OK...last shot, between these two, which one would you buy? [url="http://www.flightcasewarehouse.co.uk/music...sp?id=4538-2577"]http://www.flightcasewarehouse.co.uk/music...sp?id=4538-2577[/url] [url="http://www.flightcasewarehouse.co.uk/music...sp?id=2837-2577"]http://www.flightcasewarehouse.co.uk/music...sp?id=2837-2577[/url][/quote] I'd personally buy the second...

A few points, having read through this thread... 1) Avoid moving over to a custom developed forum software. Just don't do it. It always ends badly. ALWAYS. 2) See #1. 3) For adding more functionality but keeping the upgrade path clean, does IP.Board have some sort of plug-in functionality where you can add things without making changes to the core code? 4) I'd advise keeping the core functionality of the forums as actual forums and as simple as possible. If people want to have "social networking" style things then they can use Facebook/Myspace. The current forum profiles offer plenty of "social networking" features as it is. 5) The wiki certainly has a lot of potential, but it's a little disjointed at the moment. It needs some thought and someone to work on it's structure and act as a moderator for the content. There's also the question of whether to keep the content purely factual or to include reviews and the like. I personally feel that forum posts are a better place for gear reviews and the wiki should be kept for purely factual content, but that's just me. Either way, decisions have to be made about style. 6) The "Market Place" is great, but there are some areas that could be improved. The "Recycling Unwanted Items" forum has a "Completed" sub-forum – why not extend this section wide. You wouldn't need to have separate sub-forums in each forum really, one forum for the whole lot would probably do. Over at the [url="http://forums.ilounge.com/"]iLounge forums[/url] (which I help moderate) we let people lock their own topics in the "Classifieds" forum (the equivalent of the "Market Place" here) and all locked topics are automatically moved in to the "Archived Classifieds" forum. Threads that haven't been posted in in a month (from memory, it could be a slightly different period of time) are also moved in to the archive to keep the main forum for listings that are likely to still be relevant. I would think that should be possible in IP.Board as well as vBulletin. 7) In general, I would try and keep the total number of forums to a minimum – the more there are, the more daunting it is for a new member to get involved. Although it's a much bigger forum, Talkbass is a little OTT in this regards in my opinion. In general, you're doing a great job and the forum is pretty damn good the way it is. I wouldn't be too worried about making major changes for the sake of it. The old proverb stands, and doesn't need repeated. That, of course, is not to discourage you from making changes where appropriate. Hope this was helpful, I'll add more if I can think of anything.

[quote name='knicknack' post='468965' date='Apr 21 2009, 07:45 PM']well at least i'm now convinced that should i find a way to pay, the service will be top notch![/quote] Got a friend with a Visa card?

They don't accept payment by Switch/Maestro – which may be why your card didn't work. I was in a similar situation a while back, and RBS wanted £15 to do a bank transfer (they charge you if you go in to a branch to make a transfer and you can't do transfers out of the UK online or by phone – bloody swindle if you ask me). Luckily I have a Visa debit card on an old account, so transferred some money in to that and used that instead. The folk at Thomann were brilliant about it, they phoned me the day after I'd placed my order to tell me that they couldn't take the payment and were quick at responding to e-mails when I decided to use a different card instead of the bank transfer. Shame the £/€ rate has made things more expensive, because I've always been impressed with the service.

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='468800' date='Apr 21 2009, 05:18 PM']Do we have any UK prices for them?[/quote] GuitarGuitar have them for £744. I was playing about with one in the Glasgow store the other week – it's a sweet little bit of kit! Oodles of power (though I was playing at in store volumes) and the presets, tuner & compressor are really nice to have on board.

I give mine basses a wipe down with a towel (well, a Guiness bar mat that's made of a towel like material) after I play gigs. I also occasionally give them a dust, but I don't clean them regularly aside from that. [b]Edit:[/b] Oh, now and again I also hoover the ratfur on my amp, if that counts

[quote name='Musicman20' post='468001' date='Apr 21 2009, 12:12 AM']I thinking put it facedown on a soft surface, get the correct screwdriver, unscrew all 6 evenly, take plate off, line up new plate, put in screws half way each, then put all in properly. Then tighten a little. Then new strings.[/quote] Sounds like a sensible way to do it. As long as you make sure the neck is lined up in the pocket before you start putting the screws back in, you shouldn't have any problems. Don't over tighten the screws either, just put them in till their firm.

I would guess that it's in some way attached from the back, so I wouldn't try prying it off. Your best bet would be to remove the grille cloth and find out how it's attached. [b]Edit:[/b] Just looked at some photos and the logo appears to be screwed on from the front.

Really disappointed I couldn't make it along, looks like it was a good afternoon. I'll have to try and get to the next one!

[quote name='alexclaber' post='466780' date='Apr 19 2009, 03:34 PM']The first 'vintage look' Compact: Alex[/quote] Superb. Will you be doing a similar version of the Big One? If so, I may have to phone my bank and arrange more overdraft...

[quote name='Dr.Dave' post='466683' date='Apr 19 2009, 12:45 PM']Just looked on the SD site and can't find any such animal - you got a link to these useful sounding goodys??[/quote] [url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/products/custom-shop/specialized-1/single_coilstac/"]http://www.seymourduncan.com/products/cust...ingle_coilstac/[/url]

If he is able to back off the gain control on the desk slightly, then that would be the best solution.

[quote name='chris_b' post='466470' date='Apr 19 2009, 12:45 AM']If you want pictures of old basses check out www.gbase.com[/quote] Cheers, that's a cool site.

Thanks for the information guys. Going by the serial number it's actually a '63 rather than a '64 – so the spaghetti logo seems correct. [quote name='The Bass Doc' post='466382' date='Apr 18 2009, 09:19 PM']As it happens I've an Oct.'63 P-bass for sale at the moment which is a Fiesta red (re-spray) with all original hardware and it carries an 'off-white' pickguard.[/quote] Do you happen to have a photo?

Got a few questions about vintage Precisions, specifically ones produced in 1964, for a possible restoration project. According to [url="http://www.guitarcolonel.com/newsletters/newsletter%20volume%201%20issue%202.html"]this page[/url] they should have a decal with a spaghetti logo and 4 patent numbers between 1963 and 1966. However, [url="http://www.timeelect.com/64pbass.htm"]this page[/url] seems to indicate that the later style (1966-1968 on the first page) logo was in use in 1964, and a couple of other photos I've found on the internet seem to confirm this. Does anyone know which is the correct decal for a guitar of this period? Could 1964 have been when they changed over? The bass has clay dots rather than pearl ones, which are identified as a change in the "Late 1964" model on that first page. Did the earlier 1964 models have the spaghetti logo and clay dots and the later ones pearl dots and other logo? Also, what is the correct scratch-plate colour for one finished in fiesta red from this period. A quick Google seem to indicate that some fiesta red ones have cream while others have tort. Cheers all!

Don't Sadowsky do a 24-fret Jazz? Though, admittedly, it may be a little above your price range...

[quote name='escholl' post='465492' date='Apr 17 2009, 08:27 PM']for some reason, i find it really easy to sing and play the guitar at the same time, but tough to sing and play the bass. go figure. [/quote] Snap. Not sure why really, I guess it's the rhythm...

[quote name='Jack' post='464346' date='Apr 16 2009, 07:58 PM']Yup, If EBMM were Fender MIA, then OLP was Squier and Sterling is MIM. Easy right? Ok, It isn't. And neither's the name. Do you want an EBMM Sterling or a Sterling by EBMM? Worst name ever.[/quote] ..and the analogy is broken, since the OLP models have been discontinued. There are now only these Sterling ones and the "real" EBMMs.