~tl

I've got a two-hole one on my Precision (put on myself, but a Fender part) which is 2.5" long by 0.5" wide by just a smidge under 0.5" tall.

Looks pretty interesting. I'd think that it's arguably more useful on the guitar than the bass. The real down side is that it doesn't seem to support anything other than EADGBE tuning (or semitones down/up on all strings) for the polyphonic mode... which means it has no benefit over a standard tuner (aside from the quite nice looking display) if you're playing in dropped-D, DADGAD, etc.

[quote name='Jerry_B' post='702337' date='Jan 5 2010, 11:56 PM']I have a 1989/90 model and can't find any wiring diagrams for it. Diagrams for other versions don't explain it all as the MIJ version I have as a brass grounding strip going from the bridge pickup to the bridge. I haven't had the bass for all that long and it's not firing on all cylinders - it's lacking in volume, is noisy and gets noisier when I touch any metal parts. So I suspect something's up with the grounding. Any help much appreciated![/quote] Aside from the grounding strip, it should be wired just like any other 3-knob Jazz bass. I'm not sure if the brass strip completely replaces the bridge ground wire (I'd guess it does), or whether they have both. However, they should both be wired to the back of a pot or some other grounded point. I personally like the Seymour Duncan schematics for clarity: [url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=std_jazz_bass"]http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wirin...c=std_jazz_bass[/url]

Would this fit? [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=71992&hl=status"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...2&hl=status[/url]

Howard bought some Badass saddles from me. A pleasure to deal with, cheers

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='684807' date='Dec 15 2009, 07:04 AM']Didn't someone post saying that they thought the Tecamp was powered by a modified 'Powersoft' unit?[/quote] Yeah, they have a Powersoft amplifier module in them...

[quote name='Phaedrus' post='684578' date='Dec 14 2009, 09:52 PM']No such thing as a light power amp . . . Our PA rack is heavy - 1 x JBL MPA750 (25kg), 2 x Yamaha P5000S (12kg each), plus some other lighter units, but suffice it to say that at nearly 60kg, it's [b]HEAVY[/b]. 12kg is probly as light as power amps go, and the P5000S that we use is a great amp - never gets hot & dead reliable. Check one out. Mark[/quote] Class-D power amps are usually lighter than that. The Powersoft ones are ~7.5kg, are highly renowned and carry a hefty price tag to match (£1000+). Thomann do some T.Amp series Class-D amps at around the £400-500 mark which are a little heavier (~9.5kg) are much deeper than any rack case I've seen (50cm deep!) and are of unknown (to me) quality. The T.Amp stuff I have used has been fine, but, being such a new technology, I'd think there'd be a significantly higher price to pay for the cost-cutting in terms of sound quality on the Class-D ones. There's also plenty of no-name brands which you can find on eBay, however, they're generally worth being wary of. They tend to be aimed at the DJ market and hence can get away with stating their power in PMPO (which is an arbitrary unit, basically made up by each manufacturer to make their gear sound more powerful than it actually is) rather than RMS. I have a general rule that if it isn't advertised in RMS, it's best to avoid it and the manufacturer.

[quote name='markbass555' post='683701' date='Dec 14 2009, 09:14 AM']cheers guys for all the advice. the screws are turning ok but pick-ups are not budging at all. Will have a play around with it and see what I can do to adjust the pick-up height.[/quote] The foam under the pickup has probably solidified/disintegrated with age. The foam is the only thing providing tension against the screws, so the pickups go any higher. Might be worth putting a new bit in underneath the pickup to provide a bit of extra springiness...

Also, been doing a bit of investigating into the hiss problem that myself (and seemingly some others) have been experiencing with the 110 and 112 combos. Had the back off today for a wee look. It's nicely put together all in all, with tidy wiring, etc. As someone has already pointed out, the chassis is identical to the heads and has cut-outs (and even silkscreen) for the ports on the back. Therefore it shouldn't be too hard to adapt to a removable head, if anyone wanted to put the effort in (you'd need a lid for the case, but that's about it). The only problem I could see would be accessing the connections on the back (bottom) when it's in the combo, because there's not a lot of space below the amp. A project for another time maybe? Anyhoo... the Puma 350 uses a [url="http://pro-audio.powersoft.it/an_series_list.php?use_in=63&id_menu=213&obj=9"]Powersoft PowerMod II Bi[/url] amplifier module with Tecamp's preamp board. Interestingly, it's a bi-amp module with an unused 65W (4Ω) section along side the main 350W (4Ω) section. My best guess is that the Puma 500 uses a [url="http://pro-audio.powersoft.it/product_list.php?id_menu=213&obj=79"]PowerSoft DigiMod 500[/url], although I cannot confirm this. As for the hiss, I haven't had time to poke about with a scope (and likely won't until the new year) but the problem is the pre-amp rather than the power-amp module. Plugging something directly in to the effects return on the back of the amp cuts out the hiss entirely. You still get a little when the volume is maxed (obviously) but it's no where near as obnoxious as the level from the pre-amp, which is very evident above 9 o'clock on the master control. As you'd expect, the master volume and mute switch still work in this configuration... so until I get a chance to have a further look I'm going to be using this with an external pre-amp as a powered cabinet. For the price I paid, it's still pretty much a bargain in this role. But having to carry around a pre-amp as well is a bit of a pain. Tecamp's pre-amp is run from the auxiliary power lines on the Powersoft module. However, on the 350W module these lines are unregulated. As I say, I haven't had time to investigate the design of the pre-amp design further, but my current hunch is that the regulation of the power supply in the pre-amp isn't up to scratch and hence this is introducing noise in to the system. This would also explain why only the 350W combos seem to be affected (since the 500W Powersoft module has built in regulation on the aux. lines). Anyway, I'll report back when I get a chance to have more of a poke around.

It may seem obvious, but how new are the strings? The fact that it's fine below the 5th fret, suggests to me that it might not be a problem with the pickup. If it was faulty, you would expect the volume reduction to be pretty much the same no matter the where you played. How's the action? Since it's just above the 5th fret, it sounds like something might be choking off the string when you're fretting above that. It could be a high fret, or not enough relief in the neck. Does the same thing happen when you play it unplugged? If the pickup does need a rewind, Andy at [url="http://www.wizardpickups.co.uk/"]Wizard Pickups[/url] is your man. A rewound pickup will certainly affect the value in the eyes of a collector, though I'd guess it's relative to how original/pristine the rest of the bass is.

[quote name='kennyrodg' post='678895' date='Dec 9 2009, 11:14 AM']cheers guys, p/ups swapped and all's good. thanks for the help. [/quote] Did you make sure that both halves are the right way round?

[quote name='kennyrodg' post='678827' date='Dec 9 2009, 10:16 AM']Hey all, I recently got myself a P bass and the 2 pole pieces at the G are raised.I think they're Fender Alnico items. Is this normal or can I get them level with the others. Ps,there's no allen key hex in the top of the poles. Thanks in advance.[/quote] Erm, I think your pickups are in backwards. It's usually the A that has the raised pole piece...

Tim just popped round and bought an amp from me. Turns out that we kind of know each other in the "real world", so nice to see a friend on here Oh, and that '62 RI is a beauty!

The website doesn't make it entirely clear, but the mixer doesn't [i]appear[/i] to have built-in USB connectivity. They just bundle a USB interface (I'd guess one of [url="http://www.behringer.de/EN/Products/UCA202.aspx"]these[/url]) with it and advise to connect it to the CD/tape phone input/output sockets. That would mean you'd just get the stereo mix on your computer.

Here's the intro and the first time through the main verse/chorus pattern I just wrote out (badly). Jamerson plays it a little differently every time through the verse/chorus, but it's all a variation on the theme. [code]Intro: G |---5---4-3-------------------------------------------------------------| D |--------------5---2-0----------2345--------2345--------2345---3--2-0---| A |------------------------2-33-3--------33-3--------33-3----------------2| E |-----------------------------------------------------------------------| First verse/chorus: G |-------------------------------------------------- D |------2345---------2345---------2345-------------- A |-33-3---------33-3---------33-3---------33-3-0-0-- E |----------------------------------------------3--- G |-------------------------------------------------- D |------2345---------2345---------2345-------------- A |-33-3---------33-3---------33-3---------33-3-0-0-- E |----------------------------------------------3-31 G |-------------------------------------------------- D |----020--2-33-2-0-1-20-0---2-25-3-2-0--320-320-320 A |---2---2--------------2---2-2--------------------- E |0-------0---------------0------------------------- ************ G |--------------------------| D |-320--5--555--------------| A |--------------------0-3-0-| E |--------------3--33-------| Middle 8: (Replaces *** in verse/chorus.) G |----------------------------------------------- D |-------0--------------------------------------- A |-----03-30--3-032--20--0---23--32--20--0------- E |-3--3--------3----------3---------------3--21-- G |-----------------------------------| D |-----------------------------------| A |-3---------------------------0-3-0-| E |1-101-2-333333333333333333333------|[/code] Hope that helps. Main thing is to have fun with it. I'd be willing to bet that Jamerson was making it up on the fly, so don't feel that you have to copy his every note

I'd use the mixer that you've got rather than an input selector to mix the outputs. Saves getting another (quite expensive) box.

Just saw that this has been posted: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=69206&hl="]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=69206&hl=[/url] Pretty unbeatable for the money... as long as your MacBook is one of the ones with FireWire...

Basically, you just need a sound card. How many ins/outs are you after?

Personally, I'd keep that bass as is. Use it for recording, or whatever. It's unique, so it'd be a shame to butcher it up... well, more than it has been already! Then I'd be on the lookout for another (lightweight) Jazz to use for gigging. The new American Std. ones are supposed to be rather good, though I'm not sure about the weight. Maybe go down the custom route (depending on your budget, of course) and get something made that has a similar neck profile but a more lightweight body. [url="http://www.shukerguitars.co.uk/"]Jon Shuker[/url] might be a good shout for that. Or you could always get parts from [url="http://www.warmoth.com:80/default.aspx"]Warmoth[/url] (they have weights on all the bodies and necks in their store) and make it up yourself. Then there's the second hand route... Out of interest, how much does that bass weigh?

You'd be better off replacing it with a metal one – since it's much less likely to break again in the future! AxesRUs have a version that look like it'd do the job: [url="http://www.axesrus.com/axeElectronicsJacks.htm#JackPlates"]http://www.axesrus.com/axeElectronicsJacks.htm#JackPlates[/url] They come with a replacement socket, but there's no need to replace the one that's there (if it's still working).