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~tl

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Everything posted by ~tl

  1. ~tl
    I would, personally, use some double sided tape and play with the position until you find where it's most comfortable [i]for you[/i]. Everybody plays in a different way, so finding the right position is a personal thing. Once you have a position, I would mark the pickguard, remove it from the bass and drill clearance holes. Once that's done, reattach the pickguard and mark the body before finally drilling tapping holes in the body. Both should be possible with a small hand drill and a few drill bits. Hope that helps!
  2. ~tl

    Pro Toolz

    ~tl replied to Kiwi's topic in Recording

    Yep, used it a bit in my time. What do you want to know?
  3. ~tl
    "Sold"
  4. ~tl
    Due to an impending move, I have to clear out some bits. Both of the remaining items are FREE to a good home (although I would ask for a couple of quid to cover shipping).
  5. ~tl
    As part of my clear out, I have to get rid of this. It's a Digidesign Mbox 2 audio interface with Pro Tools 8 (LE) recording software for Mac/PC. All the details are on Avid's site: [url="http://www.avid.com/US/products/Mbox-2"]http://www.avid.com/US/products/Mbox-2[/url] Basically it's a USB audio interface! The specs are as follows: › 2x analogue inputs with pre-amps. Switchable for XLR (mic) with phantom power, TRS (line) and DI. › Stereo main outputs (balanced TRS jacks). › Headphone output on front panel with separate level control. › S/PDIF coaxial in/out. Out mirrors main output. In is available as a separate two channels. › MIDI in/out. › "Mix" control allows zero-latency monitoring of inputs while recording along with monitoring of Pro Tools output. This comes with Pro Tools LE 7.0 (and the 7.3.1 upgrade) on DVDs along with the Ignition Pack 2 plug-in bundle and some other bits and pieces. I've also upgraded to Pro Tools LE 7.4 and 8.0 which are downloadable from Avid's website (no CDs, but the licence keys will be provided). 8.0.3 enables support for Mac OS X Snow Leopard and Windows 7... so it's pretty much an essential upgrade! So that's 4 separate versions of Pro Tools, though you're going to want to run 8.0.3. Has had light use over the last couple of years and is in basically new condition and works perfectly. I'm looking for something around [s]£220[/s] £200 plus shipping, IIRC retail is about £299 on these. I need to get rid of this, so feel free to make me an offer. Please see my feedback thread [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=38953"]here[/url] for my previous transactions here. This item is in the UK (even though I'm not!) so postage shouldn't be a problem. Cheers!
  6. ~tl
    I've upgraded my '62 reissue. I had the work done by Jimmy Egypt at CC Music in Glasgow, I believe he reamed out the holes slightly and has drilled new screw holes. Fortunately all the old screw holes are hidden by the new base plates. IIRC it cost about £30 to have them fitted. In my opinion it's a worthwhile upgrade, since I found the stock tuners were a little loose. The reverse-wind Gotohs are the business, I would definitely recommend them. Doing it yourself would certainly be possible, but it's quite a tricky job. I would have attempted it myself if I had the tools, but Jimmy quoted me an excellent price, so I decided it would be better to leave it to an expert!
  7. ~tl
    Cheers Doc! Prompt as always
  8. ~tl
    Could somebody with a Fender give me the baseplate dimensions of a standard, 4 string, BBOT bridge? Cheers!
  9. ~tl

    Fender P/J bass

    ~tl replied to solo4652's topic in Bass Guitars

    Why not just get a Jazz bridge pickup added to your Precision? If you're happy with the bass, then it shouldn't be too expensive to have it modified.
  10. ~tl

    audicity

    ~tl replied to jimmybass04's topic in Recording

    Here: [url="http://audacity.sourceforge.net/"]http://audacity.sourceforge.net/[/url]
  11. ~tl
    [quote name='Buzz' post='787850' date='Mar 27 2010, 01:49 PM']I have to ask, since '08 have Fender employed someone who's really clued up about instruments? We're starting to see lots of improvement from Fender, first we had the revamped '08 onwards MIA Standards which as pretty much everyone has noted, have been the best basses they've made since Fender were small in the 60's, now we're starting to see some quite good advertising along with updated product ranges. I really reckon they must have found someone to kick them into gear.[/quote] That certainly seems to be the case. I would guess that, on the bass side at least, it may be down to increased pressure from companies like Sadowsky, Lakland, etc. There are a lot of companies building VERY good Jazz/Precision style instruments, and these have been getting a lot of attention recently.
  12. ~tl
    Speed holes?
  13. ~tl

    Was there ever?

    ~tl replied to Simon.'s topic in Bass Guitars

    I've seen a Japanese Fender Precision with black blocks and binding, but I'm not sure if it was a standard model...
  14. ~tl
    It looks like a Jaco style epoxy coated fretless...
  15. ~tl
    Basically, it's down to the time/effort that it takes to add those small extras. Installing the fancy inlays and applying a high-gloss finish add significantly to the build time, which results in a higher cost being passed down to the customer. If you're happy with the faded finish, then you're getting essentially the same bass cheaper.
  16. ~tl
    Generally it shouldn't make a difference either way. The sockets on the back of amps are [i]usually[/i] connected in parallel, as are the sockets on the back of speaker cabinets. Therefore, either way, the amp is seeing a 4Ω load (if you're using 2x 8Ω cabinets). I would usually connect each one to a separate socket on the amp, if you have the choice, since there is an argument that there will be slight losses in the speaker leads, so by using two direct to the amp you're minimising the power lost. The exception is some valve amps, which have different sockets for different impedance taps from the output transformer (edit: as chris_b mentioned). In those cases, you should probably only use one socket, but you have to make sure you connect them to the right one (e.g. two 8Ω cabs would be connected to the 4Ω socket, etc). [quote name='Beedster' post='765989' date='Mar 6 2010, 12:49 PM']The instructions for my Ampeg Micro/SVT210AVs state that to run two cabs they muct be daisy chained, this despite the fact that the amp has two speaker outs, which kinda begs the questions of why there are two outputs? If anyone out there is answering Claky's question could they shed some light on mine also (sorry Clarky). Cheers[/quote] Just had a look at the manuals on the Ampeg site, and I see no mention of that...
  17. ~tl
    Spent a while thinking about this, and I can't come up with a trivial way to do the series/parallel combinations. It [i]should[/i] be possible with enough poles on the switches, but I'm not yet sure if it's possible within the limits of what parts are available. The in-phase/off/out-of-phase part is easy enough. Leave it with me...
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  19. ~tl
    You want the BT-3: [url="http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=60"]http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?...detail&p=60[/url]
  20. ~tl
    Hipshot now do a bridge with a Fender compatible mount: [url="http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=306"]http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?...etail&p=306[/url]
  21. ~tl

    Homemade Porn

    ~tl replied to Alfie's topic in Gear Gallery

    Maybe a stupid question... but what does it do?
  22. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 1 post to view.
  23. ~tl
    [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=73680"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=73680[/url]
  24. ~tl
    [quote name='Musicman20' post='713949' date='Jan 15 2010, 04:09 PM']Am I right in guessing in chromatic mode it will work just like a TU2? As in, you want one string, say the E, in D, you just tune to D?[/quote] I would guess so...
  25. ~tl
    [quote name='Musicman20' post='713920' date='Jan 15 2010, 03:43 PM']Its just as good as normal tuners in chromatic mode as well. The vids explain it quite well. So the Poly thing is an addition.[/quote] Sure. Personally I wouldn't use the poly mode on the bass and, since it doesn't seem to support altered tunings, I probably wouldn't use it on the guitar either. Therefore, for me, it's not got any tangible benefits over my TU-2 aside from accuracy. Their stated ±0.5 cents is pretty impressive and is certainly better than the Boss TU-2 (±3 cents), TU-3 or a Korg Pitchblack (both ±1 cent) and is approaching Strobostomp territory (which can do ±0.1 cent). For £75 it's certainly a good offering.
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