~tl

Original video seems to be this: [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1AIGEMl2mUI"]https://www.youtube....h?v=1AIGEMl2mUI[/url] To me it looks more like an American Deluxe Jazz V. The model before the latest redesign when they went to block inlays. The dual string trees give it away... The high mass bridge (maybe a BadAss V?) and pickups (Stingray-esque but without the lugs) are certainly aftermarket. [b]Edit: [/b]pickups are maybe something like this: http://www.seymourduncan.com/pickup/music-man-system-5-strg-ceramic-4-knobs

I would expect that you would be fine without the bridge wire as long as you only have a piezo and no magnetic pickup. As has been mentioned, shielding the control cavity with copper foil should still help. All I can suggest is to try it without the bridge wire and see if you have a problem. If you don't then job done. if you do, it would be time to investigate how to earth the strings.

I would second the request to limit the length of signatures. Having something that is significantly longer than your average post length is just bad etiquette. I would say that 1-2 lines is more than enough!

It should work well as a modular pre-amp/DI.

In most cases (but not all!) the speaker jacks on the back of the amp are connected in parallel. You only need to make one connection between the amp and a speaker cabinet. The second jack is there to connect a second speaker cabinet. However, from your question, it sounds like you want to connect TWO amps to ONE speaker cabinet using the two jacks on the back of the cabinet. This is a bad idea, as you will directly connect the output stages of the two amplifiers which risks damaging one or both of the amps. To utilise the "Ric-O-Sound" feature you need two amps with their own, separate, cabinets.

I put an anodised pick guard on my MIJ Precision and there are no major problems with the fit. The anodised guard has 10 holes instead of the 13 on the stock guard, but all apart from one line up nicely. For that one, you will need to drill the body, but it's not a big job. [attachment=137339:DSC02161.jpg]

[quote name='LiamPodmore' timestamp='1368548951' post='2078386'] Usually the left output can be used as a mono out, and only use L&R if you want stereo, from what i've seen anyway. Liam [/quote] Sure, but with a stereo source like an iPod/turntable you will then only get the left channel of the audio into the amp. A solution is to use two mono channels on the mixer for the left and right inputs. You can then pan both channels to the left and use the left output of the mixer. The only annoyance then is that you have two volumes to adjust in order to keep L/R balance.

Though, since the UK use the same mains voltage as the the rest of the EU, even if you buy some mains powered equipment it will work without any problems. You just need a UK mains lead.

[quote name='0175westwood29' timestamp='1364841137' post='2031588'] thing is i dnt wanna have all that sticky crap on my bass after i take it of [/quote] If you use a good quality tape it shouldn't leave any residue. Otherwise a couple of plastic zip ties might work.

Try some white spirit, it should remove the marker and is safe for the rosewood.

The TC one is great. If you like strobe tuners, the Peterson one is pretty good too.

So, I have a ~10 year old AM Dlx. Fender on which the neck lacquer is starting to peel. I think, at this point, the entire neck, fingerboard and headstock will need to be refinished. Which leads me to my question... Does anyone know my options for getting it repaired or replaced by Fender? I know I could have it refinished myself or replace with Warmoth, etc. I also have a feeling that this might be a LOT easier, quicker and cheaper. BUT, I would like the result to still have the Fender logo and serial number on the back of the headstock and to be as "legit" as possible. I have read that Fender may replace the neck, but since they no longer manufacture the 22 fret AM Dlx. models, is this still an option? Any ideas? Cheers.

1. Changing the strings in general is likely to change the intonation slightly as the bridge saddles can move about. I check/adjust the intonation every time I change strings! 2. That depends. Normally you should adjust with the saddles, but since you've changed string gauge the neck may have moved slightly. If the neck relief is still OK, I would just adjust the saddles. Otherwise tweak the truss rod until the relief is good and then correct the intonation and string height with the saddles. 3. The more accurate the better, obviously, but a Korg Pitchblack should be OK.

Apple are now primarily selling their software through the Mac App Store. Your best bet would be to buy it from there, as it is a lot cheaper than any boxed version. The current version of Logic Pro is £140 plus £21 for MainStage (if you want that). https://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/logic-pro/id459578486?mt=12 https://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/mainstage/id459585276?mt=12 I don't think that they do upgrade pricing any more, so I wouldn't bother with an older version. They have also discontinued the cut down Express version.

Another tip is that when you're happy with the sound of a particular track, render it down to a "static" audio file. For amp simulations, this will save a lot of CPU power as it just needs to play the audio without the additional processing load of the plugin. It's worth keeping the original track and a note of the plugin settings in case you decide to go back and recreate something. You can usually save the plugin settings and reload them later.