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rubis

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rubis last won the day on May 6

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  1. Best wishes to you Sam, I hope you can keep playing, don't give up on it
  2. Fantastic Thank you very kindly orangepeelneil
  3. A bit of guidance and advice is needed now, if anyone wouldn't mind answering a couple of questions please, as electronics is not one of my strong points. I had a speaker cable lying around unemployed, and it's decent quality, so it seemed a shame not to use it for this rig. The problem is that it's got Speakon plugs at each end, and the PF20t has jack plugs for speaker outs. The cable looks to be 2 core, I can see a blue and a red wire inside the plug. So, I got a Neutrik jack plug, and assumed that I can just cut one of the Speakon plugs off, and weld 😖 solder the jack in its place, but the question is - does it matter which way round the red and blue wires go onto the jack. I assume the two cores are to be soldered to A and B in the photo above, but is A red or blue? Second question, if I may! I couldn't find the same kind of speaker socket that Ampeg use on their cabs, but I'm not at all bothered about that to be honest, because I found a nice retro looking Neutrik socket. Now, same kind of question, really, the speaker has two wires, one marked + and one marked - On the back of the Neutrik socket there are 4 poles which are marked 1+, 1-, 2+ and 2- So again, which pole would the + wire from the speaker go to, and which pole would the -wire go to? Once more, thanks in advance for any advice
  4. Had I known about them I would have!
  5. Me too, but I'd keep both necks, fit the fretless one, and start growing a mullet!
  6. Got a bit more progress to show on this today. I was a bit concerned about getting the speaker mounting bolts properly square so that the speaker located easily. I opted to use M6 bolts mounted from the outside of the speaker baffle, into Tee nuts which are recessed into the speaker baffle, so that they don't come into contact with the grille baffle (hope that makes sense). Now, as I want to use eight of these bolts, rather than 4 long pointed bolts as on the original, this means they all have to be square to the baffle face, there would be less room for error because the M6 bolts are quite a snug fit through the 8 mounting holes on the speaker. I placed the speaker onto a scrap sheet of plywood and drilled holes through, to make a sort of fitting jig. Then I placed the speaker baffle over the top, lined the holes up and used this to help keep the bolts square whilst I hammered them into the recesses. I also put a bit of Loctite Threadlock on the top of the bolts, before tightening the Tee nut up into position, hoping to keep them from working loose, might be overkill but I had it available, so why not! The speaker baffle was then glued into place and clamped up, I also added 4 of the little gluing blocks on the inside, like the original ones and then went round with some blackboard paint and some sealant. I will recheck the sealant tomorrow in proper daylight and go over any areas which need attention, as the light was fading when I did it. Anyway, the process seems to have worked, as the speaker plopped straight into place on the mounting bolts. Next jobs will be the back panel and the speaker grille.
  7. Hi Neil that's brilliant, thank you kindly for replying, I'm not very 'au fait' with all of this side of things, and I'm not very confident with anything to do with wiring or electronics. Thanks again Harry
  8. I'm trying to think ahead to things like cabinet fittings and wiring in the speaker. Now, the speaker socket on the side of the reproductions made by Fliptops and Vintage Blue are quite authentic and original looking, like this However, I can't find any that look like that in Europe, does anyone know of a good supplier of cabinet parts? I have a spare speaker cable lying around with nothing to do, and it's decent quality......Van Damme cable and Speakon connectors, so I could use that and fit a suitable Speakon socket...…….I'd have to put a jack plug on the amp end though) Or would I be better off going jack to jack and find a retro looking jack socket for the cab? Are Speakons better than jacks? Any recommendations or advice would be most welcome.
  9. Got the speaker baffle done today, it went quite well, if not a bit noisey for a Sunday afternoon, what with all the routing involved! I need to drill the holes for the front baffle to locate and hang, and I need to get some of those T-nut things for fitting the speaker, as that's what the bloke at Vintage Blue does, I thought I'd follow his example, he looks like he knows! http://vintage-blue.com/products.html
  10. What a cool project Maude, I'll be watching with great interest
  11. If you'd like a set of plans just give me the wink 😉
  12. I've made a little bit more progress on this now. I'm hampered by the weather as I have limited room to work on this in the garage at the moment, and I'm having to do it outside, in between the customary Devon rain. Anyway, the cab is glued, I found that using the front fascia part to help square it up made things a lot easier, otherwise I might have been experimenting with a rhombus shaped cab. Not being a cabinet maker by trade, there was a bit of filling and sanding needed around the joints, but it's smooth now and all that will be hidden under the tolex later. The main thing is, it feels rigid, it looks about right and it's square! I also glued in the spacer bits, behind the front facia and the speaker mounting baffle glues in behind that next.
  13. I've finally made a little bit of progress with this now. I'm afraid I got off to a false start with the sheet of plywood I had found lying around, it looked sound enough, but the damp Devon climate had done it no favours and when I began to cut it up, it was unusable! So I got a couple of sheets of new ply 1220x606 which fit perfectly into the back of a saloon car and left little wastage! I got started yesterday but I didn't get a chance to post the progress because me and the man cub went to the Pavillions to see The Pixies, who were brilliant, by the way! So, I did the speaker baffle first, need to do the spacer blocks and mounting bolts, and then grille cloth I have made the front facia thing, which is pretty much like a picture frame, it's busy gluing as we speak. My thinking behind doing that was, firstly it looked fairly easy to do, and most importantly, if I could get that fairly square, I could use it to help square up the sides of the cab when I glue it up. Then I cut the four sides, which are all the same size as this cab won't have the flip top arrangement. I don't have a dovetail jig, so I had intended to just do butt joints and add a square or triangular fillet strip to strengthen the joint, but then I found a clip on YouTube of this bloke who made a simple cheap jig for doing finger joints and thought it was exactly what I needed. Here's the clip Now, he used pine, both for the amp casing he made, and for the jig. I couldn't find 18mm pine, so I had to use MDF, and the cab is plywood, which had a tendency to split little bits of the surface layer with the router, but even so, I have to say, it worked rather well, and will make for a neater joint, I'm sure. Here's my MDF jig, not as tidy as pine and prone to splitting when the brackets were screwed on, but it did the job! I cut out the back panel and the inside baffle, which are just a couple of squares, and marked out the ports on the inside baffle. I hope to glue the sides of the cab together this week and, assuming it goes well, I will try to route out the port slots and speaker hole while the glue is curing.
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