Jump to content
Why become a member? Read more... ×
Basschat podcast: Episode 3 Read more... ×

rubis

Members
  • Content Count

    610
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Total Watts

36 Excellent

1 Follower

Personal Information

  • Location
    Plymouth

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. That's very kind, thank you and a Happy St Patrick's Day
  2. Thank you very kindly Pea Turgh 🍻 A very happy one it is too, I didn't know that this arrived on Friday while I was at work, just in time for today! I took a couple of quick photos this morning when I saw your message, thanks again and have a great St Patrick's Day everyone!
  3. 😅 I hope so Andy, they weren't in there for more than 1/2 hour to be honest, it's quite a slow process, perhaps because the containers I used were bigger than the ones I have seen people using on the YouTube clips I watched, so maybe the fumes are less concentrated? Some of the metal parts took longer than I was led to believe from the clips, and the chromed bits are very subtle, which is probably a good thing! Anyway, if the pots are buggered, they are fairly cheap to replace, fingers crossed, and thank you for your comments!
  4. Next step was Dr Fakenstein's acid bath! Bought some concrete cleaner and some plastic tubs and put the metal parts in to tarnish. You put a bit of the acid in the larger container which needs to have an airtight lid, then float the smaller tub with the parts in, inside and place it somewhere safe outside, checking on it every 30 mins or so until you get the desired look. The process definitely works better on nickel coated parts, rather than chrome, and I resisted the temptation to soak them in the liquid, as I had noticed on the pre-relic'd bridge I bought that the baseplate looked a bit blotchy, as if some sort of liquid (etching fluid or acid?) had been put on it and globules had formed and left to dry. It didn't look all that authentic to me, anyway so I polished it up and put it in the tub and (to me anyway!) improved it a bit. this was before I re-did the baseplate This is after. I got a bit 'acid happy' and put in the brass pickup plate and the pots, just to take a bit of the shiny newness off them!
  5. I've been having a bit of fun with the hardware, making it look 'less new' I took the pickup covers off and rubbed them down with fine wet and dry and then 0000 steel wool to give them more of a matt finish like this Then I read about using this stuff on the polepieces of alnico pickups On the photos of vintage P basses I have studied, some have rusted polepieces, some are blackened, I decided that blackening them would be both easier and kinder to the pickup! Here is a sort of before and after comparison
  6. rubis

    Laser Scanning - Reverse Engineering

    WOW, what a generous and interesting offer
  7. rubis

    Barneyg42, RIP

    I didn't know this gentleman, but he was clearly well thought of and will be missed by many RIP
  8. Thanks Simon, I got some 4mm stamps after Bridgehouse very kindly measured the numbers on his own bass (lucky bugger). The neck plate will probably be the next little job I can do while I'm waiting for the neck to arrive. I did the aluminium pickguard shield tonight. I worked out the wording from various photos around to be 'ALCLAD 2024T3 Q' and '2 KAISER' ………...like this I found some stamps online which looked to be near enough same size and font, some red enamel spray paint, a plastic clipboard and one of them roller things for getting dog hair off your trousers! After masking off the shield at what looked like the same width of gaps, I applied the lettering and I'm quite pleased with the results.
  9. rubis

    Baseball bat necks?

    If you are considering replacing just a neck, then Musikraft in the USA offer a customising service and from what I have read up on them are of a very high quality, equivalent to Warmoth and US made Fender necks I ordered a fat vintage spec one recently and I'm waiting for it to arrive, this is the link to the neck builder https://musikraft.com/product-info.php?pid208.html They offer a great service where you can spec pretty much anything you like, so I went on their site and was able to order a neck which will exactly meet my needs. These are the options I have gone for Options: ORIENTATION: Right for Right Handed Players HEAD SHAPE: J/P Style HEEL SHAPE: Rounded J/P Style NUMBER OF FRETS: 20 Fret (Standard) NUT WIDTH: 1-3/4 P Style (44.45mm) HEEL WIDTH: 2.4375 (61.91mm) Vintage Fender TUNER HOLE SIZE: 2 Step 11/16 X 9/16 Vintage Fender TRUSS ROD TYPE: Single Acting Adjust at the Heel FB RADIUS: 7-1/4 NUT SLOT STYLE: 1/8 Standard Fender Style SHAFT WOOD: Rock Maple FINGER BOARD STYLE: Veneer Vintage Fender (20 Fret Only) Will Come With 50/50 Side Dots + $80 FINGER BOARD WOOD: Brazilian Walnut - Reclaimed Lumber from The Coney Island Boardwalk TOP DOTS & INLAY: Imitation Clay BINDING: None SIDE DOTS: Imitation Clay 2mm FRET WIRE SIZE: 6230 Vintage Small FB EDGES: Semi Rolled Standard BACK PROFILE: Fat C 1.0 X 1.0 FINISH: Raw (No Warranty) MOUNTING HOLES: Do Not Drill Mounting Holes All vintage spec and with the fattest neck possible The fingerboard material is a little unusual....."FINGER BOARD WOOD: Brazilian Walnut - Reclaimed Lumber from The Coney Island Boardwalk"...……..sounds quite cool coming from the Coney Island Boardwalk but from what I can gather, it's a very similar colour, and I had intended to try using brown dye to darken the fingerboard for a more aged look anyway (apparently brown leather dye works well). The build time is 6 to 8 weeks, which is perfect, as it's going to be my birthday present. It's going on a Day of Birth build I'm doing at the moment, so I was after a 1964 spec with the veneer fingerboard
  10. rubis

    Bass Collection, anyone?

    Mark Bedford has used them as well as other 'name' players His sounded wonderful on their recent tour
  11. Looks like Kenny's aren't doing the PF20t any more now either, too late 😢
  12. Right.....how time flies! I haven't been entirely idle for the past couple of months, but I haven't been as busy with this as I had hoped to have been. I have been experimenting with a router jig to get that troublesome veneer fingerboard radius, and got part of the way there. I have used some parts from 3D printers I got the12mm bar for the bearings to slide along, as it needs to be quite long to fit a bass neck onto, and have been trying to make a holder for my laminate trimmer (for lightness, so it doesn't bow in the middle while travelling lengthways. I'm pretty sure it will work (eventually!) but there is a lot more trial and error than I had thought. I had envisaged a device which would allow the trimmer to travel side to side on a curved holder, as others had done, which would give the required radius, and hoped to have been able to have it reversible so that it would do concave and convex, but that might be a bit ambitious! I haven't abandoned the idea, but I have put it to one side for now and taken the easy/sensible option of ordering an aftermarket neck from Musikraft. I have heard good things about their necks and they seem to be the only ones to offer the period correct veneer board, the price is reasonable too. The only problem, of course was getting a rosewood fingerboard as there are problems exporting it, so I had to make one compromise. They offer a great service where you can spec pretty much anything you like, so I went on their site and was able to order a neck which will exactly meet my needs. These are the options I have gone for Options: ORIENTATION: Right for Right Handed Players HEAD SHAPE: J/P Style HEEL SHAPE: Rounded J/P Style NUMBER OF FRETS: 20 Fret (Standard) NUT WIDTH: 1-3/4 P Style (44.45mm) HEEL WIDTH: 2.4375 (61.91mm) Vintage Fender TUNER HOLE SIZE: 2 Step 11/16 X 9/16 Vintage Fender TRUSS ROD TYPE: Single Acting Adjust at the Heel FB RADIUS: 7-1/4 NUT SLOT STYLE: 1/8 Standard Fender Style SHAFT WOOD: Rock Maple FINGER BOARD STYLE: Veneer Vintage Fender (20 Fret Only) Will Come With 50/50 Side Dots + $80 FINGER BOARD WOOD: Brazilian Walnut - Reclaimed Lumber from The Coney Island Boardwalk TOP DOTS & INLAY: Imitation Clay BINDING: None SIDE DOTS: Imitation Clay 2mm FRET WIRE SIZE: 6230 Vintage Small FB EDGES: Semi Rolled Standard BACK PROFILE: Fat C 1.0 X 1.0 FINISH: Raw (No Warranty) MOUNTING HOLES: Do Not Drill Mounting Holes All vintage spec and with the fattest neck possible, exactly as I would have hoped to have built it myself. This way will also mean I will not have the headache of fretwork and fettling to get it acceptable. The fingerboard material is a little unusual....."FINGER BOARD WOOD: Brazilian Walnut - Reclaimed Lumber from The Coney Island Boardwalk"...……..sounds quite cool coming from the Coney Island Boardwalk but from what I can gather, it's a very similar colour, and I had intended to try using brown dye to darken the fingerboard for a more aged look anyway (apparently brown leather dye works well). The build time is 6 to 8 weeks, which is perfect, as it's going to be my birthday present. Hopefully it may arrive early enough to get it finished in time for St Patricks Day, when I can wet it's head with a Guinness or two! Here are a couple of pics I found of a relic'd Musikraft Jazz neck which gives a pretty good idea of what they do
  13. Hi I was hoping for a bit of advice from anyone with experience of Nordstrand pickups I am in the process of building a 5 string bass and have a p-bass pickup (the alnico NP5, I think), I want to add a bridge pickup and will be using with an onboard OBP1 preamp. I have a 4 string Blingray with a Nordstrand MM style pickup and love it, so I know that which ever I go for, its going to be nice, but the problem is which bridge pickup would pair with the p style the best.? If it helps, it will be used for home recording, so hum-cancelling would be an advantage. The body isn't yet made, so routing isn't an issue, and I would like a thick sounding pickup which could hold its own against the p bass pickup (I seem to remember reading somewhere that with pj style basses, the bridge j pickup could sometimes sound a bit weedy in comparison to the p humbucker) Any thoughts or advice on a soapbar or j style would be gratefully accepted Merry Christmas everyone
×