~tl

[quote name='Beedster' post='953109' date='Sep 11 2010, 09:23 PM']Thanks for the reply. Yes, I've seen that, but the instructions with the mixer said that you only need to download those for PCs, not for Mac. I'll take a closer look now though, I might have misread this section C[/quote] A quick scan of that page seems to indicate that you do need them for Pro Tools on the Mac. All other DAWs should work without them, as the manual says.

According to this page, you have to download and install a driver for Pro Tools support: [url="http://www.mackie.com/products/onyxiseries/drivers/"]http://www.mackie.com/products/onyxiseries/drivers/[/url]

Don't have one handy to measure, but from memory there should be enough play on the saddles to move the bridge by around half an inch. I would guess the E string saddle will be fairly close to the end of it's run but, as long as it intonates, then I can't see why it'd be a problem. It shouldn't be a difficult thing to change back if you decided to, just unscrew the bridge and screw it back into the original holes.

GarageBand is ace, and should already be installed on your Mac. If you're looking for something sightly more powerful, then [url="http://www.apple.com/logicexpress/"]Logic Express[/url] is a good step up and can open/edit GarageBand projects. If you're a student (or know one) then it's dirt cheap too (around £55). [url="http://www.reaper.fm/"]Reaper[/url] is also worth a look, though is less "Mac like" than Apple's offerings (obviously!)

Might be hard to find off the shelf, but the parts are easy to get. Maplin/Farnell/RS/etc should sell all the bits and pieces you need (two spade connectors, a jack and some cabling). If DIY isn't your thing, [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showuser=12"]OBBM[/url] might be able to make you up something.

Looks similar to this picture: [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8530622&postcount=14"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showpost.php...mp;postcount=14[/url] So, I would guess it's a 90's oddball Korean made instrument... not one of the valuable JV Squiers, unfortunately.

Sure, it would be possible to adapt a full-size bass, but it's going to involve some major modifications. Since the scale length is not going to be the same, you're going to have to either move the bridge towards the neck or move the neck towards the bridge... or a combination of the two. This is probably going to throw the balance off, and change the tone (as the pickup will be in a different position), and the result will probably look a little odd. The easiest way would be to buy a short-scale bass

That would be a fair guess. Still, smaller headstock or not, there's no excuse for the squint string pull.

Graeme bought a bass from me. Sent payment quickly and was generally a pleasure to deal with... so comes highly recommended from me! Cheers mate!

[quote name='Linus27' post='849828' date='May 27 2010, 10:28 PM']Where did you find out my ESP is 21 fret. That was a bit of quick investigation work. Even I did not know that [/quote]

Depends if you want a matching headstock shape and neck profile. If not, an aftermarket Fender style neck might fit (Warmoth, etc) though you'll have to check the measurements. If you want something identical, your best bet would be to speak to a luthier in the UK who should be able to copy the current neck. Jon Shuker might be a good first bet, though I'm not sure if he still does necks to order (he has in the past, I guess it will depend on his workload). [b]Edit:[/b] Just seen your ESP is 21-fret, which might make a stock aftermarket neck tricky as they tend to be 20-fret.

It's just a shame they don't seem to be doing it in Orange: [url="http://musicmanphotorepository.blogspot.com/2010/03/feeling-randy.html"]http://musicmanphotorepository.blogspot.co...ling-randy.html[/url] That, I would have GAS for. I will hold off judgement until I can see the white/goldtop/sunburst models, since I'm not a huge fan of black basses (for the most part). [quote name='thepurpleblob' post='843851' date='May 21 2010, 10:30 AM']Is it just me (or the perspective of the photos) or is the headstock smaller than usual??[/quote] It certainly appears to be smaller than a Stingray/Sterling as they seem to be using the smaller style Schaller machine heads. They also seem to have got the string pull on the headstock squint AGAIN.

What bass is it? I'm guessing it's for a pre-amp (as it's dual concentric), so it might be worth contacting the pre-amp manufacturer to see if they can source you a replacement.

The cost does tend to add up once you add in all the hardware, though it depends on what quality of parts you get. Obviously, you pay a premium for Schaller/Hipshot/etc over no-name parts. I've never used them myself, but Warmoth parts are supposed to be excellent quality. Finishing costs should also be taken into account. Warmoth charge $170 to lacquer a body and $65 for a neck, which is pretty reasonable. It's possible to do it yourself, with a bit of time and patience. You can get satin lacquer from [url="http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/lacquer.html"]Manchester Guitar Tech[/url]. An alternative would be to go for an oiled finish (which should work quite well on walnut) and is reasonably easy to apply yourself. Still, putting together a bass is a fun project, and means you can get something that is exactly tailored to your personal choice.

[quote name='Linus27' post='849322' date='May 27 2010, 01:20 PM']This could be an interesting project and quite fun. At least it would be my own personel fretless. Is Warmoth the only company that do this sort of thing or are there others?[/quote] There are other companies who make aftermarket bodies/necks (WD, Allparts, etc), but I've not come across any that have the range of options that Warmoth do. Most seem to only offer bodies in alder/ash with maple/rosewood fingerboards.

Since you're thinking about replacing all the hardware (and neck), why not just go for broke and get a [i]proper[/i] walnut body (rather than alder, stained to look like walnut). This has already been suggested, but Warmoth do them: [url="http://www.warmoth.com:80/Showcase/ShowcaseItem.aspx?i=B1771&Body=2"]http://www.warmoth.com:80/Showcase/Showcas...1771&Body=2[/url] You will have to pay shipping and import duty on top of that price, but it shouldn't work out TOO expensive. [b]Edit:[/b] You could also get a neck from them: [url="http://www.warmoth.com:80/Showcase/ShowcaseNeck.aspx?i=bn2249&Body=1"]http://www.warmoth.com:80/Showcase/Showcas...2249&Body=1[/url] [b]Edit (again):[/b] Warmoth will even veneer the headstock with walnut for $45 extra, which will get it looking like the original! [url="http://www.warmoth.com:80/Bass/Necks/BassPegHeadVeneer.aspx"]http://www.warmoth.com:80/Bass/Necks/BassPegHeadVeneer.aspx[/url]

There are only one or two brief shots in videos, AFAIK. There's this Marvin Gaye one: And this CBS News one: Alas, only fleeting glances in both. I've not seen anything aside from those.

Welcome! I'm moving to just outside Geneva this week, so nice to know there are other bass players about!

As Daquifsta said, you will have to move the bridge back a certain amount to keep the scale length constant. I checked my Precision and if you have approx. 12" between the neck pocket and bottom of the body there SHOULD be enough room to do it. I would guess that there won't be enough room on a 3/4-size Fender-style body though.

That would be mine! I'm needing to shift it in order to fund a move to France. I had a very hard time deciding on how to price this, as I did get it for considerably less than it's market value. In the end, I've put it at a price I feel is fair based on the current retail pricing (i.e. £1150 at the Bass Merchant). If anyone is interested, then I'm sure a bit of Basschat discount could be applied! They are awesome amps, just a shame I've never had a chance to use it in earnest!

You [i]should[/i] be able to route a MIDI track's output to any MIDI port on your hardware using that track's output popup. As for recording the output, I would just use an ordinary audio track. You can't record into AUX tracks, which are more for effects returns and the like. I haven't used MIDI much in Pro Tools, so I can't really be more help than that, sorry.