~tl

[quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='463985' date='Apr 16 2009, 02:57 PM']Yes, these are the replacement to the OLP's. They're called "Sterling - by Ernie Ball." Whereas OLP's ranged from £200-£340 or so, the new Sterling range starts at over £600!!! Eye watering![/quote] Hmm yeah, that's what I initially thought too... but that sort of price puts it in a completely different market...

I believe they are EBMM's replacement for the OLP/SUB models. [b]Edit:[/b] Eeek, just looked at the price... maybe not then... [b]Edit 2:[/b] Here's the site... [url="http://www.sterlingbymusicman.com/"]http://www.sterlingbymusicman.com/[/url]

Try these links instead: [url="http://www.flightcasewarehouse.co.uk/music/typeproducts2.asp?id=4538-2577"]http://www.flightcasewarehouse.co.uk/music...sp?id=4538-2577[/url] [url="http://www.flightcasewarehouse.co.uk/music/typeproducts2.asp?id=2837-2577"]http://www.flightcasewarehouse.co.uk/music...sp?id=2837-2577[/url] Basically, the difference is fairly obvious from the pictures – the sleeved case has an extra layer of padding between the outer case and the rack itself to provide extra protection and shock absorption. I would think a standard rack would be more than adequate for most purposes, unless you have a particularly heavy handed roadie

Are you wanting actual potentiometers (i.e. ones that vary continuously but also have set positions that the knob clicks to) or just multi-way switches (i.e. ones that only can sit in certain positions)? I've not seen the first type commonly available with more than one position, like the ones used for blend controls. The second type are commonly called "stepped attenuators" and are big in the audiophile sector. You can buy fancy ones for lots of cash, but they are easy enough to make with a rotary switch (such as [url="http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0327642"]this[/url]) and a bunch of resistors. I'm sure there are sites out there which give you the correct resistor values for logarithmic scales. [b]Edit:[/b] This one is pretty good for calculating the values... [url="http://homepages.tcp.co.uk/~nroberts/atten.html"]http://homepages.tcp.co.uk/~nroberts/atten.html[/url] [b]Edit 2:[/b] And this one is a nice summary of the theory... [url="http://www.euronet.nl/%7Emgw/background/attenuator/uk_attenuator_1.html"]http://www.euronet.nl/%7Emgw/background/at...tenuator_1.html[/url]

I'd personally go with The Funk's suggestion of two overheads and a mic on the kick – but as he mentioned it really does depend on the type of mics you have.

Would "Graduated fade" be sunburst? If so, sign me up for a little of that...

I'm mostly 5-string these days...

Just bought some more Badass III saddles from Adee. Top bloke, and they arrived quickly. No complaints here!

The Stingray 5 traditionally had pickups with ceramic magnets (like the Sterling) while the Singray 4 had ones with alnico magnets, which may account for some difference in tone. However, with the release of the Sterling 5, the Stingray 5 has been updated to have alnico pickups too, so I guess newer models will sound more like their 4-string counterparts.

Never had a problem with my TU-2 on either 4 or 5-string bass. But I also hear very good things about the Korg Pitchblack, so that might be worth consideration too: [url="http://www.korg.com/Product.aspx?pd=295"]http://www.korg.com/Product.aspx?pd=295[/url]

Cheers! I've been meaning to brush up on my reading and this seems a good way to do it!

Try this: [url="http://www.bassguitarpartsdirect.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=47"]http://www.bassguitarpartsdirect.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=47[/url]

If they're anything like the BMFL series, then yes they should be reversible. Might be worth checking the dimensions of your current tuners match though. You can get a technical drawing here: [url="http://bass-machine-heads.com:80/upload/CY25a14e89X11a9adccd5aX429a/1213781443472/TZ_BassMechanik_BMSeries.pdf"]http://bass-machine-heads.com:80/upload/CY...ik_BMSeries.pdf[/url]

I think the Schaller BML series tuners fit, though they're not cheap these days – were £40 ish about a year ago and Allparts are now wanting over £80 for a set.

About time I got round to posting a picture of my basses: [attachment=22857:DSC02122.jpg] On the left is a Fender Precision Deluxe V, bought from Lysdexia in a GAS attack (damn those models). It's a 2001 model with an added ACG EQ02 pre-amp and a Badass V that has been customised for through-body stringing. On the right is my faithful Japanese '62 Re-issue. It's a 2004 model that I've added Bartolini 8S pups, gold anodised scratch plate, Badass II and many other bits and pieces to. Both play beautifully and are currently strung with nickel Elites, but I'm considering nickel DRs on the V and TI flats on the '62. Anyway, that was all. More photos may follow...

Thought I'd add some information of my Badass V modification for Fender AmDlx. Basically, the Badass V lacks the holes for the through-body-stringing, so half an hour with a drill later: [attachment=23387:DSC02131.jpg] [attachment=23386:DSC02127.jpg] The slight problem is that the "channels" in the Badass V don't completely line up with the string holes. Having the holes in the same place as the stock bridge would put them half way across the wall of the channel on the B and G strings. Since I was going to have to drill a couple of extra holes in the body for the two extra screws, I thought it would be neater to drill the string-holes in the middle of the channels and modify the body to let the strings through. The results, are what you can see in the photos above. I'm also using Badass III saddles, since the stock ones are too wide to intonate the B-string properly.

Just as a followup – that allen key is perfect for all of my Badass II, III and V saddles.

Stunning! What kind of wood is the top?

Allparts and WD stock it. I'd guess other parts places do as well. [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/wire-gauge-vintage-style-cloth-covered-utility-pack-p-4362.html?p=product"]http://www.allparts.uk.com/wire-gauge-vint....html?p=product[/url] [url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/Vintage_Wire_Black_-_2_Ft._WIREBKF"]http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/Vintage_W...-_2_Ft._WIREBKF[/url] [url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/Vintage_Wire_White_-_2_Ft._WIREWTF"]http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/Vintage_W...-_2_Ft._WIREWTF[/url]

There are 5 plectrums included though. Make sure you figure that in to the equation...

By this point I'm just rehashing what others have said, but this has always worked for me. In the short term, there's not much you can do except give your fingers a rest and cut back on the playing until they have healed. Try not to pop the blisters if at all possible, but don't worry too much if they do. In the past I've used that fake skin in a bottle stuff over blisters that have popped which gives them a bit of protection (and is antiseptic) but stings like buggery when you apply it. Once your fingers have healed, it's best to try to stop it from happening again. It's probably worth putting a new set of strings on your bass (I find nickel strings to be softer going than stainless steel ones) and getting the action sorted out. As others have suggested, try to turn your amp up a bit and to play lighter. This should be a lot easier with the action set up properly. Finally, stick with it. Try to play every day as this will help build up the hard skin on your fingers, but don't over do it as the last thing you want is more blisters. That being said, it's just something that you have to go through from time to time as a bass player.

According to the sticky topic in the Repairs forum it's 1/20th of an inch. I've just ordered one of [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Hexagon-Allen-Key-Wrench-0-05-Ball-Ended_W0QQitemZ160313070300QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Hand_Tools_Equipment?hash=item160313070300&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318"]these[/url] since mine seems to have gone wandering. I'll let you know how I get on with it.

Bass Direct stock them: [url="http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/SKB_Bass_Cases.html"]http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_sp...Bass_Cases.html[/url]

[quote name='Faithless' post='440975' date='Mar 21 2009, 11:12 AM']Anyway, I've never spotted Victor using that hair band, I mean, it doesn't work (mute strings) in [i]that [/i]place, where he's normally holding that thing in, right? Finally, it doesn't work to me like that..[/quote] The hair band isn't to mute the strings when playing in a "normal" way. It's for using when tapping and is to mute the vibration of the top part of the string. When you tap, both the string on both sides of the fret vibrates, and this generates two notes – one of which isn't the note you want. Having something soft around the top of the string is enough to dampen the vibrations of that side of the string and eliminate the second note.

Just bought a Badass from Dan. Was a pleasure to deal with and would have no reservations about dealing with him again. Great stuff