Dan Dare

Got to be a spoof. If you apply, you'll probably end up on You've Been Framed (or whatever the current equivalent is). Lenny Kravitz hardly "newer stuff"...

Why buy one? Versatile, excellent pickups, very nicely put together (in the Cort factory, I understand), great tones. I could go on. I had a L2000 Trib. Astonishingly good for the money. The only reason I sold it was because I've played J basses for 30 years and just couldn't get on with the wider, flatter neck. I did persevere with it, because the instrument was so good, but in the end, I tried a P Bass Special and marginally preferred it to play, so bought it, even though the sound isn't quite as good. If the G&L neck suits your hand, go for one.

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1482402662' post='3200174'] Part of the problem is that there's a large amount of bass players who think the answer is more bass. I play at a church, big stone building, modern glass wall at the back and massive resonance down low. We have no backlineand a IEM system and the FOH. PA folk often end up with a massive mush in the bottom end. Its taken me a year and demonstrating that turning on the desk's HPF on the bass guitar cleans up the sound no end. I only have to suggest they do the same on the acousitic guitars, keys and kick drum and we may one day get it sounding good! [/quote] +1 Luke. Relatively few appear to realise that less often equals subjectively more when dealing with low frequencies. Quantity vs quality and all that. And as others say, little point in wasting amp headroom on subsonic mush/rumble.

There's an interesting parallel with hi fi amplifiers in that some with apparently low wattage output can deliver much more oomph than those which should, on paper at any rate, be more powerful. Some say that it's the amount of current an amp can deliver (and how long it can sustain that delivery - i.e. more than a few milliseconds burst) that determines how powerful it will sound, not simple wattage measurement. Could sustained current delivery be the way to measure "heft"? When I need to be louder, I use a preamp and bridged PA power amp that is stated to deliver 900w and which sounds a LOT more pokey than my class D head (also claimed to deliver 900w). It has a hefty power supply - massive toroid and reservoir caps like bean tins. Could there be a connection?

Bill's right (as usual). I don't have the option, as my head only has one Speakon out, unfortunately.

I've used a piece of foam ever since my old TE 350 was nearly walked off a 2x15 cab by the vibrations (I turned round to see it teetering, fortunately and repositioned it before it actually fell off). Now I use a lightweight head on an Epifani cab (which, being lightweight poplar ply, vibrates quite a bit), I always make sure I take my foam. You can get a suitable offcut from one of those foam cut to size shops which will do the trick. Go for something reasonably dense so the head doesn't squash it too much. I like Bill's idea of using a piece of camping mat, although some are a bit thin. I reckon an inch or so is a good minimum thickness.

I think the Wharfedale name, as have many from the halcyon days of British audio, has been bought by a far Eastern conglomerate. Would imagine the bass stuff is generic Chinese fayre under the hood.

[quote name='jacko' timestamp='1482244121' post='3198771'] I have Daddario chrome flats on my fretless alembic and love the feel and tone. Also have la bella deep talking flats on my Kelly acoustic bass which almost give it an upright tone. [/quote] Yes and yes. I use Chromes on my Yamaha fretless and they sound great and are very nice to play. Tried La Bellas, too and they do give an upright sound, especially if you pick over or near the fingerboard and away form the pickups. Prefer Chromes as they are brighter when you need it and the LBs are now on my P Bass.

Could I pick your brains, Bill? What is your favourite all round 10" driver(s) for bass guitar use (in a suitable cab, properly driven, etc, of course)? Thanks. I appreciate this may be a bit of a naïve question, but would be interested in your thoughts. Thanks.

Anyone else constantly chop and change their preferences for what sounds best? Over the last few years, I've been fortunate in that I have been able to afford, within reason, to buy whatever gear I like. Having tried, bought and sold a fair bit of stuff, I currently have a choice of several nice rigs. The problem is, one day I like one thing and the next another. Would really like to settle on something and offload the rest - my home is getting cluttered with black boxes of various sizes. However, I know if I sell something, I'll wish I hadn't and be wanting it back again. Guess it's Gear Indecision Syndrome. Any fellow sufferers?

I had a padded Roqsolid cover for mine. Did a good job and not expensive.

Replace with metal mesh?

If you use another combo, it makes no sense not to use the onboard amplification (which will also enable you to equalise volume, tone, etc between the two).

If it's his gig, he can decide who he plays with. I sense you're feeling "I've put a lot of effort into this and I deserve better". It may be true that you have, but life ain't fair or meritocratic, I'm afraid (however much people may try to persuade us that it is). As for being "unprofessional", don't even go there. That way lies blaming yourself. If the guy's a bit of a dick, that's not your problem or fault. If you're at uni' with him, just cross him off your Christmas card list. Plenty more fish on the sea. Lots of people at uni' start bands.

It'll be fine as others say. Obviously, don't expose it to damp, temperature extremes, etc. or leave it in direct sunlight,

Just looking at the Marketplace. Does anyone really buy used strings (tastefully garnished with bits of skin, dried sweat, bogies, etc)? Ho hum.

[quote name='DorsetBlue' timestamp='1481806488' post='3195292'] Well you could be sneaky. Buy the Squire or Encore (or Thomann) guitar, check it over to ensure it is fine and then take it apart. Then reveal parts to daughter and put it back together again, making improvements (cavity screening etc) as you go. You then have known quality parts but still have the custom built feel. [/quote] That is a smart idea and you know you'll get something that does the job.

[quote name='CamdenRob' timestamp='1481705191' post='3194355'] It's Glockenklang... it'll be awesome. [/quote] Did you mean expensive?

Pointless to get worked up about this. Magnetic fields do not run in a straight line vertically from the pole piece. They're more doughnut shaped. As long as the string is there or thereabouts over the pole pieces, it will be fine

Most combos have a preamp out, so you could add a power amp and cab.

Jack's Instrument Services in Manchester. They're just about to make me a p/g for exactly the bass you have. Made me one for a P bass recently. Nice job and not that expensive. Google will find them.

Yep. Gotta be an Icepower 700ASC. Everyone - MESA, Genzler, Aguilar, etc - uses ICE modules. Bloody Bang & Olufsen won't sell them to end users, only to OEM manufacturers. A piece of p*ss to build into an amp - make 8 connections and mount the module in a hobby/project case (£40 on eBay), add a decent pre-amp and bingo. But no, us punters have to pay £700 plus to one of the afore-mentioned for the privilege. Hi-fi world is even worse. Plenty of manufacturers put B&O modules in a pretty case, add a few connectors and a pretty blue LED and sell them for thousands. It's rip off city.

A pal of mine lent a double bass to a visiting (male) bass player from France and the bastard sold it and did a runner with the money. True story.

[quote name='ead' timestamp='1481528895' post='3192866'] But did he play 4 hour bar gigs for nowt? [/quote] Probably did in the early days...