rmorris

I wouldn't assume that the 'Zero Fret' has its height set the same as the other frets. It might still be set a little higher - possibly to avoid 'Back Rattle' on fretted notes. It would still offer the possible advantage of being of the same fretwire material (as opposed to nylon / bone or whatever) and witness point characteristic.

[quote name='ahpook' timestamp='1468411404' post='3090739'] You need to be fitting condensors, not capacitors if you're after [i]real[/i] vintage tone. [/quote] yeah - with 'authentic vintage analogue dielectric'

[quote name='Left Foot' timestamp='1468408003' post='3090699'] Hi there brainy people. I'm hoping you can tell me what I need to solder together... How can I take an audio signal and convert it into a visual signal. Or what variants on that audio/visual syncopation are possible and in what format? I basically need to know what Transducers to use and if these are common within a certain type of box / gizmo / device. Looking on Wiki - I need a circuit featuring an Electroacoustic transducer running into a Cathode-ray tube (CRT) : meaning that I can plug a normal jack lead into this circuit and get an audio (Hdmi/SVGA/VGA) out - which can then be plugged into a projector for example... Is there anything out there that does that? [/quote] Not clear on what type of visual display or image you're looking to get. CRT probably a bit outdated ???

[quote name='4stringslow' timestamp='1468226689' post='3089298'] Good article. The point about different capacitor types having different value tolerances is a good one. I stand by my previous comment that different capacitor types will make no difference providing their values are the same but of course if a particular capacitor type has a very wide tolerance (and up to 80% is not uncommon for some types) then a replacement with nominally the same value might in fact have a very different value, which might well have an effect on the tone. But this effect would not be a result of the type of capacitor, only because of the different value. Likewise, different capacitor types have different temperature characteristics causing their value to change under different conditions. Again, this could theoretically give rise to tone changes but would a result of the value changes rather than the actual type per se. So, by all means experiment with different capacitors to get the tone you like best, but be careful when drawing conclusions about what is creating that tone - at least not without a lot of fancy test equipment that can properly analyse what's going on in the overall circuit. [/quote] Yes - it's sort of obvious to avoid wide tolerance caps. Apart from temperature dependencies, different types of capacitor dielectric have different voltage coefficients. ie the actual capacitance value varies with the voltage across the cap. Since an audio signal is, by definition, constantly changing this has an effect on the signal and gives rise to harmonics not in the original signal - ie distortion. But to put this into perspective it's a relatively tiny effect in the context of a bass or guitar. From past experience it might add a dB of distortion to a high quality audio signal eg 89dB cf 90dB. So it seems technically interesting but not a real issue for a passive tone control.

[quote name='DanOwens' timestamp='1468259424' post='3089668'] What was your favourite and why? There's a few there that I thought were quite dirty and I'm after clean. Can the Sansamp and the Aguilar do clean? [/quote] Switching the BDDI 'off' and it's a pure DI. Same with Behringer DI21 but unlike BDDI that won't run from phantom power.

worth a read through... [url="http://www.gibson.com/News-Lifestyle/Features/en-us/Orange-Drops-Busting-Tone-Control-Capacitor-Myths.aspx"]http://www.gibson.com/News-Lifestyle/Features/en-us/Orange-Drops-Busting-Tone-Control-Capacitor-Myths.aspx[/url]

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1467123773' post='3081325'] Your maths is right; each lamp will draw 1.25 A, so you'll be needing either an 1.5 A psu for each lamp, or a single psu able to support a minimum of 2.5 A. Running both from the 1.5 psu will overload it, and could cause trouble. It would be normal to have a little bit of margin, so I'd say a 3A psu would be better if you're running both from the same one. On the other hand, separate psu's would be more 'fail-safe', and could make for better cable runs. [/quote] Yes - definitely adviseable to have some headroom on the psu spec.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1467126081' post='3081344'] Being US-made it will require an Imperial sized key. Best therefore to get a set of 10 metric and 10 Imperial allen keys. Still only about £10 and you'll never need to buy another allen key in your life. [/quote] Yes - I see - think I misunderstood and thought it had been said that neither a standard imperial or metric size would fit the Badass II.

[quote name='SH73' timestamp='1467061251' post='3080944'] Machine Mart. It even has the size for badass II. Good price for a set.much cheaper than b and q. [/quote] Out of interest what 'special size' is require for a Badass II ?

[quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1466873728' post='3079515'] This arrived a few days ago to accomodate my short-scale Ibanez Mikro bass. Excellent quality guitar size gigbag. More like a case than just a bag. Fits the bass with room to spare. http://www.thomann.de/gb/thomann_premium_gigbag_eguitar_br.htm [/quote] If the size is okay then those Thomann bags are v good. I have a few for long scale bass, elec guitar and electroacoustic but not tried with my SS. For the OP - what is the overall length of the bass ?

Value and Quality wise I'd recommend checking Toolstation / MachineMart / CPC or your local hardware store etc before B&Q - although I realise they're often quite convenient. Also, if they have a 'ball end' then don't use that on the bass as they will tend to result in some wear on the screws etc (although they are handy for other uses where the angled access is useful ) The other end usually has a 'straight' hex profile which is fine.

[quote name='alyctes' timestamp='1466341495' post='3075063'] Thanks. It occurs to me it may be the capacitor, as there is a rapid click (every 1/3 second or so) in the buzz. [/quote] Doesn't seem likely that a capacitor (presumably in the tone control components) would cause a periodic click. Easy enough to check by disconnecting. Last time I (well a guitarist) had something like this it turned out to be caused by something like a Sky Box or DVD player in a downstairs room. If it were every second I'd say it was your watch - took me ages to realise that when I had the problem with single coil strat type pickups. Doh !

[quote name='mr zed' timestamp='1465318109' post='3067101'] Can the BDI 21 be used successfully for impedance matching of a double bass pickup? Looking for a cheap option. Cheers. [/quote] All depends on the pickup and what type it is. I'm guessing it might be a piezo type. If so then it'll work but many people prefer the sound of a piezo transducer working into a very high impedance which might well be > the 1MegOhm that the BD121 appears to offer. Having said that, this is often discussed wrt guitar pickups - with a DB it might not be an issue ? Worth a try imo.

[quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1465329458' post='3067284'] Can it be run on batteries by any chance? [/quote] 9V PP3 as discreet says. Note that the BDI21 doesn't run off phantom power but the BDDI does.

[quote name='PaulWarning' timestamp='1465119763' post='3065366'] there's a thread going at the moment about the Behringer BDI21, it's a very cheap option [/quote] The BDI21 and Sansamp BDDI are great but maybe not the best starting point if the OP is looking to possibly 'Open Up The Mids' - see all the ' Where's my Mids gone ?" type comments on this forum and some preference for the Para Driver...

Coincidentally Guy Pratt was talking on Danny Baker's Radio 5 show earlier this morning. Very entertaining as always.

[quote name='JJW' timestamp='1464944948' post='3063933'] How would I check that? It all looks fine but im not 100% sure [/quote] Basically get hold of a multimeter with a continuity function that 'beeps' when you have continuity. It will beep when you have a low resistance between two points. You can then use the resistance function to see how low it is - should be much the same as when you touch the probes together - ideally showing zero but will often show a fraction of an ohm due to meter calibration / probes. If you don't have access to a meter you can pick one up for not much money.

First thing: check continuity between bridge/strings and the volume pot. Since touching volume pot has effect this shoud point the way. To back this up also check continuity to outer connection of output jack.

[quote name='rogerstodge' timestamp='1464616252' post='3060801'] Try a squirt or two of switch cleaner [/quote] This could be the thing. I recommend using a Caig DeOxit product rather than Servisol Switch cleaner etc. Get it onto the input jack connections and rub with a cotton bud.Maybe do this a few times. Then use IPA (alcohol/not beer :-) and allow to dry off for a few minutes. If still a problem - same on output connector. Basically the input connections can oxidise - even signal voltage can be enough to break this down but in absence of signal it can become non-conductive again.Sounds odd but have had same on mixing desk insert points. Good luck...

Basically - get a BDI21 - it's pretty much the Sansamp BDDI soundwise. Different Opamps but none the worse for it imo (I have both). It doesn't work from Phantom Power and may be a little less rugged but comparing the price when funds are limited the choice is obvious...Both are something of a Swiss Army Knife for Bass Sounds.

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1464445405' post='3059521'] I concur with our learned friend. [/quote] +1

[quote name='sebowden' timestamp='1464196225' post='3057471'] I saw this, anyone got one built they want to sell? [/quote] Bear in mind that that circuitry will impart some colouration from the relatively simple jfet circuit. You may or may not think that a good thing ...

[quote name='bassituation' timestamp='1464258269' post='3057927'] It was a lug on the jack socket touching the foil, I had a good output but no tone. I turned the output socket and all fine. [/quote] Well I don't understand it but anyway it works so all seems good !

[quote name='bassituation' timestamp='1464200143' post='3057525'] Basschaters to the rescue! It was indeed one of the lugs on the jack was touching the foil, I must have turned the jack from its former position. All fixed. Happy days. Cheers for the suggestions. [/quote] Was it a lug on the output jack or the Pot ? Asking because I understood that you had a good output just with no tone action ?

You have an output so it's not the output socket. It might be one end of the capacitor has become disconnected - either the connection to the pot lug or the end to the pot body (screen). That would explain why the Tone pot does nothing while you are still getting a good output.