rmorris

[quote name='Les' timestamp='1463595923' post='3052742'] Death by misadventure [/quote] Are you handy with a soldering iron / multimeter / 'scope ? That circuit isn't too complicated if you can get to it and pull a schematic from the web... My guess would be that it's the electromechanical bits most likely the problem - switch / pots / connectors etc ?

Water (ie tap water) isn't really very conductive at the low voltages used for pedals etc. Different matter at mains voltages - electric heater in bath scenario etc... Don't know about beer though given the sugars etc. Might cause problem with electrolytic caps ? - not all types are 'sealed' against fluid ingress. IPA +1 If dishwasher not successful any chance of access to an ultrasonic cleaning bath ?

Assuming you running off a single socket / single phase supply... [url="https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/RCD_Protected_Range/RCD_Protected_Range_3/index.html"]https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/RCD_Protected_Range/RCD_Protected_Range_3/index.html[/url]

[quote name='pfretrock' timestamp='1463323715' post='3050451'] I've had this on my P. the original crap quality socket was replaced after 18 months as the plug kept falling out. Replaced with a Switchcraft part 6 months ago, now sometimes I get hum with this until I touch the strings. I believe the problem in my case is poor earth connection between the plug collar and socket. Plug is Neutrix, so no problem there. Nickel plating is not the best low resistance contact material! [/quote] You don't have a problem with the Switchcraft socket. The point of the earth/ground connection of the strings/bridge via the socket is that it 'grounds' you when you touch the strings/bridge. Otherwise you tend to act as an antennae for noise and this gets picked up by the bass pickup/electronics. (note that if you touch something else that is earthed - eg amplifier chassis screw then the noise should also reduce). Nickel plating is fine and adds no significant resistance. The problem with jack/plugs is more likely to be mechanical and now that you have replaced the poor socket the Switchcraft/Neutrik product should be fine. If there's a problem with the plug or socket - either mechanical or dirt/grease/corrosion then you will hear it in the sound breaking up.

[quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1463087924' post='3048561'] Trying to get a constant Q adds circuit complexity and in some way can restrict the sound. However a variable Q is a must for a PEQ. As for shelving controls, they are OK but to my mind the Bass control should have a tail off ( or HPF function) at the lower end and likewise the Treble should tail off before it gets too high. The reason is that so called shelving controls keep going up in level, way past the useful frequencies. [/quote] I wasn't clear what I meant about 'constant Q'. Yes you do need to be able to vary Q in a real parametric EQ. But what I really thinking of was the difference circuits where the Q can be set independently of gain as opposed to those where the actual Q varies with gain - ie whether the controls are independent or interact. ime constant Q is vital for room correction / set up with ,say, a 31 band graphic EQ. For creative/musical use with parametric EQ it's a matter of choice and doesn't always sound good/natural as you point out - basically you have to adjust it manually whereas the interactive EQ might have done it for you ! Agree on the EQ. I like to have seperate switchable hi and low pass filters - they can then have steeper curves than the EQ itself - and variable frequencies (asking lots I know - think Iike have something like a high end mixing desk channel in mind - distant memories of a DDA AMR24 desk but in DAW PlugIn World much easier :-)

What is the Behringer DI model ? And the EMO ?

[quote name='cd_david' timestamp='1462969630' post='3047377'] A loud earth hum appeared on my 73 precision yesterday, I've re soldered all joints and re sat the bridge earth but it still hums and disappears when I touch metal. Any thoughts? [/quote] I know it's an obvious thing to say (and you have resat the bridge) but you do really need to check continuity between the bridge and the output jack.

[quote name='cheddatom' timestamp='1462884427' post='3046602'] I'd never judge a brand as a whole, always take each product on it's own merits. The BDI21 is ace and I regularly record with it for actual releases being played on radio etc. I also gig it fairly regularly. Clearly it depends on what you want, but for a large portion of my bass tone needs, the BDI21 is actually "the best sound quality possible" [/quote] +1 Behringer produce such a wide range of stuff - Bass Rigs to Digital Mixers and the rest...- that it's difficult to generalise. I also have:[list] [*]the 'Hellbabe' Wah pedal : plenty of controls and and adjustments plus the non contact optical mechanism promises well. But it has problems with clicking at end of travel etc. Apparently (ie on the web) it's possible to improve the range etc by trimming some stuff around the optical sense / pedal mechanism. [*]HD400 'Hum Stopper' - Two 1:1 transformers in a small box - works well. I don't have technical spec on it for freq response etc. [*]Alo have a rackmount COMPOSER compressor. This is good - But it's the 'original' version which seems to have a much better reputation than the later versions (with the cheap looking 'shiny' front panels) [/list]

Quick Google turned up this (see link) £0.28 each (bought in 4s) - I didn't check all three rubber options - and £4.50 shipping. [url="http://www.flightcasefittings.co.uk/rubber-foot-f1693.html"]http://www.flightcasefittings.co.uk/rubber-foot-f1693.html[/url]

Ahh. Failure of sticky back Velcro type (hook & loop Fastener) is one of life's (more trival but) consistent annoyances. So the Velcro fastening is great but it's stronger than the adhesive - yes that's my IKEA Venetian Blind fascia I hear falling off at 3am :-) I've taken to using 3M Dual Lock type fastener for a DIY pedalboard project. Not cheap but very secure fixing. The adhesive side can get really quite complex as the best adhesive depends on the 'surface energy' of the surface being stuck to. I'd suggest to check it out at least. One note - I initially went with 400 mating with 400 strength and found that the adhesive wasn't strong enough. I supplemented it with Silicone but on further reading of the 3M literature saw that this was not a recommended combination. I'd suggest checking it out at least (the 400/400 stuff will make sense if you read the 3M data)

[quote name='paul_5' timestamp='1462714871' post='3045085'] Yup, the BDI21 is a brilliant piece of kit. Loads of players on here have them either as a back up or as a main pedal. [/quote] +1 This. The footswitch is a funny sort of thing. It doesn't run on phantom power. But it does sound good. And the build is actually pretty solid. Circuit wise I believe it has FET input opamps as opposed to the CMOS type in the BDDI. I have both and tbh I find it easier to avoid undesireable (imho) tones on the BDI. Basically I find it doesn't get as obviously distorted as the BDDI and prefer it just for a 'warm drive ' sort of sound. I don't know about relative noise levels. Both get hissy if you start to wind up the Treble and/or Presence controls. Also not really tested how the DI outputs compare in terms of balance. The phantom option is very handy on the BDDI if you're running into a desk.

[quote name='dood' timestamp='1462740015' post='3045403'] It's not bad actually. Three bands of Parametric EQ which are pretty wide reaching and of course that all important Q control for each band as discussed above! [/quote] Just crossed over with Dood's input. Is there an option to switch the outer bands to shelving EQ ?

[quote name='Jus Lukin' timestamp='1462555282' post='3044047'] I realise I'm already sounding incredibly pedantic in this thread, but I think a parametric EQ will always have control over the Q. Without that it would be semi-parametric, with control over just cut/boost and frequency. Perhaps the best way to get a mid focussed para would just be to tweak the circuit of a reasonable quality full range one? I'd be useless at that, but for those with the electronic and soldering skills it should be an easy modification. [/quote] Yes - you're right. Without a Q control it is really a semi (or is that a two thirds :-?) parametric or what might be called a 'swept mids' EQ. As a complication Q might be offered as switched between discrete settings (usually just two - Wide or Narrow) or variable on a pot'. Then you have the issue over whether constant Q is preferred and the definition of Q itself. It can get complicated. I guess we could always rely on our ears :-)

[quote name='Jus Lukin' timestamp='1462388588' post='3042670'] That may be the case; Although I'm definitely no electronics engineer I'd imagine it is just a case of using different component values, but I'm ignorant of what's inside the box. As a consumer product it doesn't make as much sense to make one with limited range, hence the large amount of full range ones. Point is that, aside from the sensitivity of the frequency knob, any Parametric EQ will do the job, in my opinion. [/quote] You're basically right about the design aspect. There's no real correlation between the frequency range and the cost / complexity of the circuitry. It does occur to me that switchable or variable Q would be a big advantage.

for using buffers / low impedance electronics before the WM - take a look at the Mastotron fuzz or equivalents. Has facility to increase source impedance and work as intended with active pickups aand reamping etc. Also lots cheaper though you lose the painted graphic case !

[quote name='Kev' timestamp='1462127833' post='3040501'] Any electronics that are in the signal chain before the WM will cause issues. Basically, if all power is off on your board and you still have a bypassed signal coming through, it is fine to be before the WM. Buffered bypass, active electronics (pickups or preamp) and, obviously, any engaged pedal will seriously reduce the usability of the sound. To more directly answer the question, the pedal does not need to be true bypass, but it does need to be mechanical and not powered. The boss OC-2 will interfere in bypass, but any true bypass alternative would not. Although, I usually have octaves after the WM, as tracking is usually fine and you avoid ruining the WMs tone with an active signal. [/quote]

[quote name='MagicOnion' timestamp='1461146611' post='3031779'] Clear! I always assumed that my Line6 DL4 was a digital pedal, but I have never experienced any problems with it when I had it on a daisy chain together with my other pedals. But it's probably better to connect it to an isolated output that isn't shared with any other pedal. Same thing for the Space Station: it'll need an non-shared isolated output. I have looked up how much the current draw is for every pedal. Polytune - 50 mA Boss OC-2 - 4 mA DIY BassScreamer - probably not more than 10 mA EHX Big Muff - probably not more than 10 mA EQD The Depths - 35 mA Line6 DL4 - different sources state different things, most likely around 250 mA Space Station - 500 mA There's still one thing I'm struggling with to figure out: both the Line6 DL4 and the Digitech Space Station require 9V AC. I've had my DL4 succesfully connected to and powered by the OneSpot (of which I assume it only gives DC) with a L6 converter cable. So I guess that the DL4 works on DC too? Or can such a small cable adapt DC to AC? Just wondering :-) As for my Space Station, I don't want to ruin it, so I probably need a 9V AC output on the power supply. [/quote] Sounds like you've been lucky with the DL4 noise. It is possible that a 'Digital' effect might have adequate noise suppression inside it or be well enough designed to avoid the issue in the first place. Bear in mind that low level noise issues may not be noticed in some circumstances - live / rehearsal etc but could become noticeable in, eg, a studio recording environment. The Space Station sounds power hungry ! DC into an 'AC' input can work depending on the detail of the 'AC input'. A simple bridge rectifier circuit will accept DC of either polarity and produce the correct polarity at the output. You may be running at reduced voltage level with 9V DC going in- probably losing 1V or so across two diodes in a bridge giving somewhere around 8V. 9Vac (rms) going in will get uou about 11V at the output as it gets rectified to the peak value minus the diode drops. Whether any of that matters depends on the internals of the unit. Best stick to the specified AC or DC as other units may have different power input circuitry and internals.

[quote name='dood' timestamp='1460907341' post='3029679'] I've just treated myself to a WMD Utility Parametric EQ. I'll let you know how I get on with it. Not just mids though, this is a full Para EQ pedal. YAY! [/quote] imo I can't really see justification for a 'Mids only' pedal. You've gone to the trouble of getting a box/pedal/ connectors etc so you may as well get at least high / low shelving EQ in there as well ! The WMD Parametric looks the business. We wait to hear what you make of it...

[quote name='MagicOnion' timestamp='1461138248' post='3031695'] Thanks! Is there anyone who can tell me whether or not I can power multiple effects with only one power outlet of a supply? It's probably okay as I already do that with my OneSpot (which is actually one outlet going to all of my effects). I guess distortions and fuzzes don't require as much power as certain digital pedals. That way I don't have to buy a huge brick. [/quote] Yes - as you have shown you can power multiple units from one outlet as long as it can meet the current requirement. Using a daisy chain or splitter cable. Indeed many 'multiple output supplies' effectively do this but provide individual connectors (they may also have individual short circuit / overcurrent protection so that overloading one output shouldn't affect the others - but they are not isolated in terms of "ground loop" etc as all the outputs share a common ground.) BUT - if you are using a 'Digital Pedal' ie anything which uses a microcontroller / logic / clock then you really don't want to be sharing a supply with it as it's likely to put a load of noise onto the 'Ground Line' which is disastrous for noise especially in unbalanced systems as you have generally have between effects units / amps etc. I'm guessing the Digitech pedal is a 'Digital Pedal' (the brand name sort of implies it :-) so I'd recommend a dedicated supply or isolated output for it. With non digital pedals it's probably okay - as you have found out - to run multiples but it is still more susceptible to noise / interference etc as you are introducing 'Ground Loops' into the wiring. Whether it becomes an issue depends on the detail - wiring / sources of interference etc. For value I'd recommend taking a look a the Thomann Powerplant Junior which has 5 x isolated outputs - bearing in mind you can parallel for more current and stack in series for greater voltage. Note that it's only the Junior that has isolated outputs. It's 'big brother' with 8 outputs doesn't have isolated outputs. Seems wrong but I confirmed this with Thomann before purcasing a few Juniors.

Okay. 'Twangy' sounds food to me for funkish sounds. If happy with Strings I'd look at EQ settings and maybe active preamp next. Try shortest good quality lead practicable between bass and amp to simulate active preamp response. Not trying to put you off replacing pickups but that route can be endless tail chase. Having said that I am tempted to try a Nordstrand pickup on an OLP MM2 (at leats until I check my bank account against cost :-)

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1460147392' post='3023159'] If you're not too sure about working on a bass, IMHO you'd do well to keep clear of basses with neck problems. What's your situation? Do you have a bass already? Are you trying to find a cheap bass? Or are you looking for something to do work on? If you're looking for a low cost, good first bass, that's something different that we can maybe help you with. [/quote] +1 Good questions. There's really no need to land yourself with a problematic neck which may take time & money unless you're especially interested in the mechanics and workmanship of it. If it's playing that's more important - get a problem free bass and go with that. You can always pick up another 'challenging' bass for the technical set up stuff. Beware the 'proper' tools don't come cheap !!!

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1460408711' post='3025540'] Hot glue is fine - just be thoughtful where you put it or you'll struggle like hell in the future if you need to remove the component(s). [/quote] +1 I don't like using hot melt glue myself as it's a right pain when reworking and rather 'inexact' in application but I can't deny it [u][i]can[/i][/u] do the job pretty well. But note that the glue sticks are not all equal - some dry really hard and are not that good at adhering to non porous surfaces like PCBs and electronic components. So a bit of trial / error may be needed. There are specific products made for this application - two part 'Black Tak' and similar - but they do come expensive. Alternatively you can try a 'Superglue' (again various formulations better at some surface types and combinations than others) and maybe use with an Activator to finish the job quickly. Seems to work well for securing patch wires etc.

Thinking 'Back to Basics' - how does it sound / feel acoustically as in not plugged in ? What strings are fitted ? What amp / desk / whatever are you playing through ? What Control / Switch Settings used / tried ? From the link you posted I'm not clear why they say it's a slightly shorter scale length as 867mm is more than the 864mm quoted for a standard 34 inch scale ( Do the maths - not math please :-) - and you'll see it's not exact using 1 inch = 25.4mm )

[quote name='FatDrunkStupid' timestamp='1460217560' post='3023760'] I recently purchased a (new) G&L M2000. Great sounding bass but the action's very high from the factory. After the usual checking and measuring I attempted to tighten the truss road slightly - it seemed extremely stiff (maybe maxxed out already?). After applying more pressure than felt appropriate (but I carried on anyway...) the allan key seemed to turn. I should've stopped there and then but nope, the key suddenly turned and now I have a truss rod nut with a rounded head. Bugger. Totally my own fault and I feel like a fool. Question is, what now? How badly screwed(!) am I? How common is it for truss rods to be fully tightened from the factory - seems like a QA failure. [/quote] You mention that it was purchased new. So did you buy it online or bricks and mortar shop or whatever ? It seems to me that the retailer has primary responsibility for it and should take remedial action (no pun intended :-) Hope it works out well.

Fair Enough...Enjoy...