rmorris

[quote name='SwamiRob' timestamp='1456182393' post='2986458'] Cool! Don't need anything fancy, just a tuner, distortion and an 18v compressor, although the distortion has some magic voltage doubling going on or something so hopefully that wouldn't mess anything up. In what situations DOES isolation matter by the way? As long as there isn't too much buzz I'm happy! [/quote] If you're running pretty much any sort of digital pedal ie it has clock signals inside it then you're likely to run into problems with non-isolated or daisy chain supplies. In this case the digital effect is causing noise which affects the other pedals. With non digital effects the situation is a bit more nuanced. With non isolated or daisy chain supplies you are , by definition, introducing 'Ground Loops' (since the patch lead between the pedals is providing a 'Ground' path in addition to the power supply ground). This loop is liable to have noise induced into it. Whether this happens to a significant degree depends on the geometry of the loop and sources of interference. For instance there may not be a problem until you are near a lighting rig / fridge / laptop etc. Minimising the loop area (basically short leads and lead dressing) will give best results. You can try various 'tricks' with the patch leads - inserting permutations of resistors and capacitors in the shield path to provide isolation at lower frequencies and continuity at higher frequencies - essentially a 'Ground Lift' approach - my advice is don't :-)

[quote name='ProfFrink' timestamp='1456175658' post='2986348'] AFAIK these are not really isolated. OTOH most pedals don't really need fully isolated power to work well. [/quote] The problem with multiple output power supplies being described as 'isolated' is a problem with terminology. In normal 'electronics language' "isolated" would mean galvanic isolation ie the "Ground" terminals of the outputs (as well as the positive terminals) are not commoned in the power supply. But some of the multi output power supplies available and described as "isolated" do have a common ground. The "isolated" aspect appears to refer too the fact that the outputs have independent protection against over current / short circuit etc - ie if one output is short circuited or asked to provide too much current then the other outputs shouldn't be affected. "independent" would be a better term rather than "Isolated". Oddly, the Thommann Powerplant does not have Isolated Outputs whilst the Powerplant Junior does (with fewer outputs than the Powerplant). I verified this with Thommann before purchase.

Yes. ☺

[quote name='Hutton' timestamp='1455876822' post='2983132'] Many thanks for all the replies here folks. I've decided to fit a new loom as provided by our own KiOgon. The original bits can sit in the case. [/quote] Good sane decision :-)

[quote name='Hutton' timestamp='1455468819' post='2979340'] That's fine as far as it goes and I agree with you. However, when someone says that they can't offer you what you are asking for your bass because it isn't 100% original because of the replaced pot despite it being included in the sale then that is a problem. How much are you meant to knock off for an original pot not being fitted but included. Seems daft to me. [/quote] Yes - it is rather daft - pots are electromechanical bits that wear out = esp cheapish carbon track versions. On a similar principle, though not exactly the same point, if you were buying a 'vintage' Neve mixing desk for your studio (it'd be Vintage in the same context of an 80s bass being vintage) would you pay more for one with all original capacitors rather than one which had been periodically re-capped (with similar or better capacitors) at significant cost as good practice would recommend ? Anyway, is there an actual potential buyer who is raising the pot issue or is it a "What if" scenario ?

[quote name='Beedster' timestamp='1455142897' post='2976502'] Get a Carlsbro combo [/quote] That's proper funny

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1455045325' post='2975412'] I've had the exact opposite problem with them, I keep putting them in the wrong place and they're a right pain to get off again! And then I have to use new sticky pads to put them back on. [/quote] Well they do stick well at first (generalising here as I dare say different manufacturers and adhesive formulations may perform differently) but have a tendency to fail over time if used on vertical surfaces (or 'upside down' I guess) if extra adhesion not used. But yeah - the residue left behind if yo remove them when they are stuck well can be a pain to remove - IPA / White Spirit etc

I sort of assumed the OP would be using a plectrum (or finger nails )...???

Sounds like making it hard for yourself with the flats. Change to rounds or a substitute bass for this track ?

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1455029724' post='2975184'] If I don't want to drill an anchor point, I like these: However, I don't know if you can get them with a big enough slot for Velcro. Edit: You can get them large enough to take a variety of Velcro widths. The generic term for them seems to be Grip Tie Mounts. I could do with some myself. [/quote] Those type of cable tie bases are good but there's still the issue of the adhesion not always being strong enough. Depends on the surface you're sticking it to but I've experienced them failing over time/temperature on steel and aluminium (vertically mounted so dropping off). But with silicon sealant applied round the edge as adhesive they have performed well.

Yeah - can be difficult when not much contact area available. Any possibilty you'd be okay to drill through some small holes to mechanically fix cable management fixings - P clips etc ?

What is your board made of - metal ? wood ? etc

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1454862573' post='2973653'] If you're finding it difficult, maybe you're just at that age. As the saying goes: you can't teach an old dog neutriks. a ha ha ha I'm here all week, folks. [/quote] I salute you

[quote name='obbm' timestamp='1454870713' post='2973777'] It's also described by one cable manufacturer as "semiconductor", which it clearly isn't however it's conductive PVC with carbon particles. If it is not stripped back to clear the centre conductor and touches the jack tip wiring the cable will exhibit the sort of problems that the OP is having. [/quote] +1 I was going to suggest this then scrolled down to the above advice. Yes - the 'black' screen is a bit conductive and is used with cables for Hi-Z applications ( eg passive bass / guitar pickups ) to reduce noise caused by physical cable movement where the core moves in relation to the cable screen. For lower impedance uses (eg microphone cables) the effect is much less and the cotton fillers you often find in such cables is deemed sufficient since they work to hold the cores (generally 2 for mic cable) in place. Anyway - it needs to be trimmed back from the signal core.

What is the PSU model etc. ?

If your power supply is the problem then the audio would be distorted due to it also.

[url="http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/"]http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/[/url] electronic / electromechanical / general bits...

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1453121320' post='2956482'] Why would it be easier? Do you mean to wrap the flat braid around the wire, or just use it to link the cavities? I could just run a wire for linking if that was all I wanted to do. I know shielding the hole probably makes absolutely no difference, but I like the completeness of it. I feed the wire through the braid, then feed that through the hole. Splay the ends of the braid and tape them down (I use aluminium tape for shielding cavities). I only really started using it for that because I had it knocking around. I bought it with wire in it labelled as "Gibson" style wire, when I was rewiring a Les Paul style guitar that has chrome hardware, so it all matches... [/quote] Oh I see. I thought you meant you used it simply to link cavities to maintain continuity (without screening a cable). Thought you might be using a braid as technically it's better than a piece of round wire (although with guitar set ups the difference is probably more theoretical than audible ?) Thanks for clarifying.

[quote name='rainbowreality' timestamp='1452903667' post='2954724'] I can't find it anywhere (3 strand plus earth) I need some to rewire my bass so if anyone knows where to get any I'd be very grateful! [/quote] for info there's plenty of screened 3 core cable available in industrial cable ranges eg CY cables. But you'll probably have difficulty in getting it in less than a 50m reel at >£50 !

[quote name='rainbowreality' timestamp='1452954280' post='2955028'] Another option I was considering was using 4 pieces of 22awg cable (one strand cable being shield) and twist or even plait them together as I've read somewhere this effectively shields them? [/quote] Twisting is a bit different from shielding. To be effective it needs to be used with a balanced audio system. This is unlikely to be the case with a bass/pickup/amp setup.

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1452974617' post='2955306'] I mostly use it for lining the hole between and linking shielded pick-up and control cavities (my basses and guitars don't have scratchplates). [/quote] I use it at work for overall shielding of cable assemblies. But for your use would it be easier to use flat braid ?

[quote name='rainbowreality' timestamp='1453059594' post='2956064'] I wonder if using two cables, one single shielded and one two core shielded might be a better option? [/quote] Depending on whether you have cable already or would need to buy then it might be easier to do it all with 2 core shielded as you'd need only one cable type and it's readily available. I'm wondering what wiring configuration you have that requires 3 core shielded ?

This website might be worth a look - cable stuff to read through in addition to products... [url="http://www.shootoutguitarcables.com/index.html"]http://www.shootoutguitarcables.com/index.html[/url]

just a note to mention that Studiospares cable range is worth a look too

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1452367842' post='2949365'] It's possible to spend an absolute fortune on a couple of guitar leads and gain relatively little back in the way of quality. You want cable from a well known manufacturer, Klotz or Van Damme. The plugs need to be Neutriks. That combination is about as good as you're ever going to get. I believe there's someone on here that makes these cables... I'm sure someone will be along in a minute to remind me who it is... [/quote] +1 No need to spend "silly money" as it's just going to big margins on the price. Neutrik connectors (for their mechanical integrity plus collet type cable retention) with appropriate Klotz or Van Damme / Canare etc. instrument cable (ie with additional semiconducting screen to attenuate cable movement noise with HiZ pickups) with high quality assembly / soldering is about as good as it gets.