rmorris

how about: a) Turn it up more at the desk so the levels sound similar to the ears rather than meters ? I guess you might run into headroom issues ? Turn down the level of the Stingray at the desk ? b ) Use the EQ on the desk ? Changing the pickups / preamp EQ is going to change the tone to some extent (obvs :-) I guess the idea is to not alter it too much ? The on board preamp option arguably has the advantage of buffering the pickups close to the pickups themselves, as opposed to after a couple of meters of cable.

[quote name='mickster' timestamp='1486385412' post='3231268'] [/quote] fair enough. Use a small hacksaw and a dremel type tool / file to finish off ?

[quote name='CliveT' timestamp='1486314922' post='3230820'] Thanks for the review. Been thinking about one on these too. As well as the Sansamp type sound (or better as you say) does it work as a transparent eq and/or boost too? [/quote] No. Would recommended the pedal though.

[quote name='peted' timestamp='1485556970' post='3224998'] Thanks for your help everyone! Think I'll go with a Bahco set from ScrewFix - [url="http://www.screwfix.com/p/bahco-long-ball-end-hex-key-set-9-pieces/3494k"]http://www.screwfix....-9-pieces/3494k[/url] but make sure I don't use them at an angle so as not to overly damage any of the bridge fixings. I'll also see if I can find a buddy with a Dremel tool to re-instate my existing key for backup. [/quote] Not sure how a Dremel type tool is going to really help. It can 'clean up' rounded edges but it's still taking metal away rather than restoring the original shape and dimensions...

[url="http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/hex-keys-sets/0537748/"]/[/url][quote name='MisterT' timestamp='1486227134' post='3230184'] How's this? £1.60 inc VAT for 5 of them including delivery. [url="http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/0609584/"]http://uk.rs-online....oducts/0609584/[/url] [/quote] But that's 5 of the same size 1.5mm But something like this: [url="http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/hex-keys-sets/0537748/"]http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/hex-keys-sets/0537748/[/url] would seem to fit the bill. The Bahco set chosedn should work out well though.

"By Accident" ? Ebay ?

Take a look at DeOxit products from Caig. Best.

[quote name='CameronJ' timestamp='1485553070' post='3224969'] Would this do the trick? http://www.gear4music.com/Guitar-and-Bass/JHS-Pedals-Little-Black-Amp-Box/1C69?origin=product-ads&gclid=CIa-856j49ECFe4y0wodIekMTQ I guess all this does is attenuate volume and doesn't change the impedance of the signal but would it suffice? [/quote] Assuming it's a 'pot in a box' then it will change the impedances - both the input and output impedances. Values depend on the pot value and it's setting. Same applies to passive volume control on a bass. Should be okay though with a lowish impedance source and feeding into highish impedance of a pedal etc. On the other hand - could you just turn down the output level on the source ? No real danger of damage with line level signals.

[quote name='squire5' timestamp='1485380646' post='3223611'] Shortening the string by moving the saddle closer to the pickup will raise the pitch of the string,not lower it. [/quote] +1 - assuming the tension is constant then a shorter vibrating length will give a higher frequency. It'll be out of tune now of course. But in reality you'll need to slacken the string off to move the saddle so just tune back the open string to pitch from there and check the resulting intonation @ 12th fret ...

I'd strongly recommend not to use the 'ball end' of any hex driver unless necessary for access (thinking truss rod access at headstock). They will work off axis by around 30 degrees but will inevitably leave some sort of lip on the screw with repeated use. Not really much of a problem with M3 / M4 machine screws but def not good at bridge saddle set screw type dimensions.

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1484749064' post='3218061'] That looks like it might be a properly designed x-over. Why not give it a try before disconnecting it? If you do this, you need to bypass the crossover completely. You need to disconnect the wires that go from the input panel to the crossover from the crossover, and connect them directly to the bass unit. There's no need to disconnect the tweeter at all. From what I can see, that means unsoldering two of the red and black wires and connecting them together (solder and shrink wrap, or terminal blocks). I'm not sure what the third red and black wire is from the photo (second bass unit?) - so just make sure the input is connected directly to the bass driver(s) - and not the crossover - and you'll be good to go. [/quote] +1 If you decide to go Tweeterless then you should bypass the X/Over and Tweeter completely.

Chord BEQ-50 ? Great build quality 7 band bass eq. Good Prices.

Either: find out which pedal(s) are causing issues and use a separate supply for any of those Or go with isolated supply outputs for each pedal - a better solution - suggest Thommann Powerplant Junior 5 x 9V outs if that fits the bill. Note has to be the smaller Junior unit. Assuming current supply has enough current for the four pedals.

[quote name='B.Flat' timestamp='1482069969' post='3197343'] Can anyone tell me what the difference in sound and performance is between an LM4250CN chip and the TL062 chip, as used on Stingrays? I am doing an S'Ray rebuild ( 2 band) and have the option of either chip. I know the TL062 is used on the three band preamp, would it work on the two band ? Would it sound different, better or worse? I know that is a subjective thing, so not a good question, but any opinions would be good to hear! [/quote] Are you building the preamp yourself or have someone doing it for you ? As Moon BassAlpha points out the LM part is a single cf the dual TL062. What is the second TL062 stage used for ? The LM part is a bit more complicated in that it has a programmable current which affects power consumption and performance characteristics. Either device will sound fine but from a quick skim of the data sheets I think you'll get a quieter (as in less noise) circuit with the LM part although whether that's significant in the context of a Hi-Z pickup source is debatable.

[quote name='obbm' timestamp='1477937763' post='3165399'] I recently put some on a 25-inch scale bass however I modified the strings first: Cutting them to the overall length to suit the instrument Putting some heatshrink onto where I wanted to outer winding to end to seal it, just behind the nut Pealing back the outer layers until I had a size suitable for winding onto the tuners Worked a treat. however I suggest you first try it on some old scrap strings. [/quote] I have to ask - what bass is that at 25 inch - shorter than a Strat ??? I have a neck under 30 inch so am genuinely interested. :-)

[quote name='josie' timestamp='1480195265' post='3182490'] Question from a relative newbie: how important is it to use a specifically bass cable with an electric bass? I understand why it's important to have a bass amp, and stuff about the properties of low-frequency sound waves, but the cable? I'm asking because I need another cable, and "bass" as opposed to "guitar or bass" cables seem to be hard to find, and expensive when you can find them. Given that I'm playing through a Marshall 15 watt bass amp at home, and through whatever general-purpose rig is available when I'm out, is it worth holding out for a bass cable, or will a decent quality general-purpose one be good enough? Any advice welcome! [/quote] Don't stress about it. There is NO DIFFERENCE (yes I know I'm 'shouting' :-) between the criteria for a bass vs guitar cable. Assuming you have a passive output (no battery powered preamp) then the important thing is that you have a 'low noise' cable cable. This means that it has a semiconducting layer between the inner conductor and the shield. (This reduces noise caused by movement of the cable). Proper 'Guitar' Cables have this. This is related to the impedance of the pickup rather than the guitar / bass frequencies - they are only an octave (x2) apart which is nothing in electronic terms. The other issue is Cable capacitance which will affect frequency response- not so much a bass issue but I'd suggest Klotz or Van Damme 'instrument cable' - as much for the mechanical properties as the electrical noise issue. Suggest see Studiospares offerings or OBBM on this site (no personal experience but plenty of seemingly good people seem to rate highly).

[quote name='mike257' timestamp='1480282234' post='3183099'] Neutrik are a company that make a massive variety of connectors so "a Neutrik socket" is a broad and sweeping statement! They do manufacture combo XLR/jack sockets for line level signals, and combo Speakon/jack sockets for amps/cabs, but both are the exception rather than the rule when it comes to what kit manufacturers choose to fit on their products, as the combo versions are more costly. [/quote] Very True. And they also own the Rean brand ( more focused on 'value' vs 'quality' but still pretty good ). Along with Switchcraft from the USA they are the 'premium' 1/4 inch (6.35mm) jack and XLR connector manufacturers ( although the XLR was originated by Cannon and Deltron may dispute the quality issue). But numerous other manufacturers exist and accuracy of the dimensions is sometimes not as good as it might be. This can lead to some difficulty in mating plugs and sockets from different brands.

[quote name='operative451' timestamp='1479985390' post='3180750'] Just got back from travels and did this... Board ditched, just fuzz and Joyo 'California sound' Mesa boogie sansamp knock-off and into the amp. Sounded like bombs going off... I think its the power supplies actually... Batteries seem to have more teeth... [/quote] What's the Fuzz ? and the board power supply ?

[quote name='essexbasscat' timestamp='1480064426' post='3181337'] So, the guitarist in the band is adamant he can use a jack plug in a neutrik socket, but I'm quite dubious TBH. I've attempted to fit a jack plug in the centre hole, but is seems to be a very tight fit, most unlike a usual jack socket. I honestly don't know if the centre hole of a neutrik socket has ring and tip connectors Will it work in any shape or fashion ? Cheers BC [/quote] Yes. That's exactly what it is designed for. Accepts XLR or 6.35mm jack. If there's an issue it's with the plug.

Really just get a BDI21. Try it. If it doesn't suit move it on and you won't have lost out much cash anyway.

[quote name='bazztard' timestamp='1479370827' post='3175958'] this doesn't make sense, you are basically just using it as a DI Try setting your amp's EQ flat. Play with the DIs tone shaping options, that's why it's there. [/quote] No - it's not just being used as a sraight DI (assuming its switched 'on'). With all the controls at 'midday' there's a significant change in the tone compared to 'bypass' (when it does act as a 'straight' DI )

That link doesn't work now. But the problem is visible on the pics. There definitely have been issues with plug / socket compatability across manufacturers. Sometimes it's been an imperial/metric tolerance issue. You might get somewhere by cutting back the black plastic 'collar' of the socket so the tip reaches the contact ?

I'd suggest going back 2 Chandler's if not happy with their work. Else Bass Gallery in Camden and get an opinion on it. 😚

For the OP - what was on the board ?