rmorris

All things being equal Copper is a more effective shielding material.

To clarify - Do you definitely wish to go fretless or is it (as I read it) just a 'side thought' ?

The pickups are (Alan) Entwistle. Not Entwhistle. I'm not trying to be pedantic but it reminds me that there was an 'amusing' debate on TalkBass about whether (John) Entwhistle had really in some way 'authorised' these pickups. I think someone put them right in the end but...you know...Americans 🙃

No. Copper is non ferrous ie not ferric. Metals with Ferric properties contain Iron (Fe in periodic table) so basically irons and steels. Aluminium is also non ferrous.

Sounds like that cable may not be proper "High Impedance Instrument Cable". It should have a semiconducting layer between the core and the screen to attenuate noise due to cable movement.

Beyond contamination of the windings a metal string is liable to loss of tension over time.

It sounds like it's survived. wooden floors are generally fairly 'bouncy' in contrast to concrete etc.

Yes - it's misleading. 'Isolated' has a specific and generally accepted meaning wrt electronics and power sources. They should be described as having individual short circuit protection.

Or you could use foam instead. Might be easier to handle ?

Both 'TR' and 'Q' have been commonly used for transistor component references. Similarly an integrated circuit may commonly be 'U' or 'IC' etc...

Just to mention that I bought one of these and when I looked at Studiospares yesterday there was just one left in stock. Only used with bass and on phantom power as of yet. Does what it says - haven't investigated noise levels etc. Treble control doesn't really touch the bass guitar range for me (maybe if I had played with newer strings) but it seems all good.

Well it's the same as the cable but hardwired to make the same connections.

Sounds about right to me. 'Ski Jump' condition near where neck meets body ?

Oil won't help if there's excessive track wear and after several decades there likely is. Normally I'd suggest using a Daily DeOxit product. But in this case I'd say simply replace it with a new pot'.

The difference between 1uF and 100pF is...x10000...ie 4 decades so something is 'out' there. Not going to do the maths now but 100pF would be typical in that position - op amp stability and hf bandwidth limiting. Are you certain about the Silk Screen reference to component matching - it can sometimes get congested due to physical spacing. imo 'NP' does likely indicate non-polarised. Look at CPC if you want to replace as is. But tbh a 50V rated cap will be okay with any reverse voltage it is likely to see in this application - a few volts ?

Anyone know the input Impedance on this unit. The Studiospares 'Spec' is minimal...

Or just wire the DC power connector as centre positive... Seriously - the rest of the electronics world would put the +ve voltage on the centre connector and have the outer connector as -ve and possibly 'screen' so it's reasonable to wonder who's the 'maverick' :-) Yeah - I know it's to do with the power source (battery / DC) switching but it's not that difficult to deal with.

I don't know the '3dB' frequencies but bear in mind that the EQ/Filter slopes and 'Q' values are important in determining how it actually sounds.

It's mainly used to cut out a specific feedback frequency - typically on electroacoustic / acoustic (via mic) guitar but can be useful on other sources.

Not really surprising. Even if noise doesn't get through via normal transformer operation because the frequency is too high then it can transfer via interwinding capacitances.

Alternatively - pump some sort of 'No More Nails' type filler into the space to fill it completely. Leave it for , say, two weeks - don't follow the 24 / 48 hour or whatever hour guidance on the pack. Really need to let all the water / solvent get out of it - should be hard as the wood by then. Then cut away any excess with a craft knife. It'll then take screws and let them cut new threads (suggest to drill pilot hole before screwing).

wrt the original jack. I' d try cleaning the contacts with Caig DeOxit and then IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol not India Pale Ale 😊. And pushing bending the contacts in a bit. Over time they can lose their tension and not make secure contact with the plug.

Assuming you're not touching a piece of earthed equipment / water pipe at the same time then - If the noise goes away when you touch the bridge then it implies that the bridge IS connected to earth (via the amp or whatever is on the end of the bass lead). You are 'earthing' yourself through the bass. You are not earthing the bass because you are not connected to earth yourself. Anyway it's easy enough to test if you have a multimeter with a continuity 'beep' function.

If it's creased but there's no break or tear in the cone then I'd say the acoustic effect will be minimal and recommend leaving as is.

+1 There's a lot of prejudice about Behringer kit. Much of that is their fault of course but I wouldn't dismiss the speakers out of hand. Of course it's quite possible that they'll sound good but not be durable if given a hard time - due to materials, adhesives etc. I did once use one of their head + cab setups - 6 or 8 x10" IIRC as it was in the rehearsal room we were using. No issues.