rmorris

I hear that a lot and it makes sense - except that depending on the relief it can allow for 'back rattle' where a fretted string buzzes against a fret on it's 'non-sounding' section back to the nut/first fret. You can, of course, argue that the string shouldn't be moving there - but it can still vibrate a little depending on how hard/accurately you are fretting it. I've had a bass setup where this happened - one place only - sixth fret bottom E. Amplified sound unaffected but still a bit annoying imo.

Sorry but No. In general 'you' ie the bassist is not independently connected to 'Earth' so touching the strings / metalwork does not 'Earth' it. It's the 'other way round' basically. The strings/bridge are connected to 'Earth' (typically via amplifier or mixing desk) and touching them connects you to 'Earth'. This stops you acting as an antennae for interference - typically mains (50 Hz in UK/EU) and related harmonics. To illustrate this - whilst not touching the bass metalwork - touch anything else that is 'Earthed' - eg typically the chassis of an amplifier or mixing desk etc and the 'buzz' will disappear or at least attenuate. (May need to wet finger and/or find a good contact point). Essentially you are acting as an antennae for interference and connecting yourself to a defined low impedance point - typically 'Earth' - stops this happening. If you weren't near the bass/pickup this wouldn't happen - but it's rather difficult to play the bass from a distance 🙂 I've put inverted marks around 'Earth' deliberately as there's no particular significance of the planet to this - the connection to the 'Earth' is basically a safety issue - not a 'noise/interference' issue. What is important is a connection to a defined low impedance node. That is typically 'Earth' or screen in a typical setup with '3-pin' mains connections - but may simply be a connection to a '0V' or 'Ground' connection where there is not an 'Earth' connection. eg battery powered setups. Think about it - Aircraft electronics need screening but there's clearly no direct galvanic connection to any planet. (Yes - I do know that there is a characteristic rf impedance of free space to Earth - 365/366 Ohm but I stand to be corrected). Apologies if this message seems a bit strident - a product of trying to educate mechanical engineers that proper screening really is 'a thing' and simply having continuity to 'Ground' isn't enough to get through EMC qualification 🙂 Cheers !

Toolboxes aren't great for organisation though.. The compartments might be okay for plectra and the usual tray for small items but then everything else is generally in the main space. Previously I've favoured the 'Aluminium 'Briefcase' Type Case' option often used for photo/video kit with configurable foam and/or movable dividers. The 'vanity case' option looks interesting if mechanically substantial enough.

You have a point there. While 1200 is ultra fine grit it is still removing some metal and can break through any surface finish. 'Burnishers' are indeed sold for pro audio use but come with advice to use them as infrequently as possible. Cleaning solution wise I recommend IPA (alcohol not beer 🙂 ) first to degrease then a Caig DeOxit product for oxidisation / corrosion.

Not understanding how that makes difference to the 'backward movement' range ?

Question - I see "Stainless Steel" (grade is not usually stated ?) often as an option for fret metal. But I can't recall seeing a Stainless Steel Nut offered / suggested ?

Thanks. So what is the 'correct' string spacing on that bass / pickup ? re: refinish - is it the 'original' finish atm - subject to wear'n'tear ? What is it in terms of surface finish - oil / varnish etc. - can't really tell from a photo. Are you looking to' refurbish ' the current finish or something different ?

Good to hear. Can you tell us what Doug Wilkes advised re Setup ?

https://www.studiospares.com/klotz-ac110-high-end-guitar-cable_544590.htm https://www.studiospares.com/cables-leads/cable-guitar/sommer-300-0051-spirit-guitar-cable-per-m_546150.htm + other 'Instrument Cables' suitable for use with Hi-Z pickups from Studiospares .

Yes - it always seemed an odd - though interesting idea - percussive plates on a fretless. Maybe a case for 'Pressure Wound', 'Half Ground' or 'Ground Wound' strings. Are they still a 'thing' ? They seemed quite a thing last century but maybe not so much now or maybe I was just playing more back then ?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Matsumoku-4-string-Electric-Bass-Guitar-USED-Solid-body-Working/363275760202?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3D5197860e9952423886c609e0fb5d692f%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D8%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D392203736363%26itm%3D363275760202%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2334524&_trksid=p2334524.c100667.m2042

Okay. Let me know. Having something of a general declutter here so please be quickish if you do want any of it. I guess I could post - esp if I take the neck off for easier packaging - but I'm thinking the time and postage cost would be prohibitively high wrt the value of the kit.

No . Bolt on. Neck Plate + 4 Big Screws.

Hi. I've given up on an "Audition" brand bass - probably Teisco in origin. So neck has a back-bow that I haven't been able to fix with clamps / heat. No bridge and body is marked where I tried to sort this. Includes the control plate and wiring/controls but no pickup (as I'm keeping it). Nut included although it has come loose from the neck. Zero Fret btw. So if you want this - £free but you need to collect from Brighton although drop might be possible in nearby Sussex locations. Please ask. Thanks for reading.

For the OP - Apologies if this appears basic - but have you tried with different string brands etc, in case it's a string issue. What are those strings on there in the pics. Having said that I think I have something similar, maybe not as marked, on a Hohner B2A. Pickup and string options are somewhat limited on that given pickup dimensions and double ball end strings for headless. Secondly - on the bass itself - I see it's the Wilkes fretless but with metal plates for percussive slapping etc. Not for me tbh - but takes me back to Stoke-on-Trent when I was a student there and the local Wilkes was making a name for his instruments in the Bass world. IIRC he pulled back from going full on 'commercial' but kept on producing what he wanted to do in a small scale way.

Does anyone have a UK source for this or an equivalent. Looks interesting - I just don't want to pay basically the same for shipping as the thing itself 🙂

Okay - I'm going to say it ! Do you really need to have it white rather than Fiesta Red and spray over a factory finish ?

Errr...No. realistically, semiconductors handling small signals don't get permanently damaged by being underpowered. It's just not a 'thing'.

I looked up the supply on Google/Amazon. Seems its outputs are individually protected. It's possible that the problem is with failed PSU outputs rather than the pedals ? Have you tried the pedals on other knowingly good supplies ?

Yes - with a typical (for guitar stuff) centre negative dc jack the outer barrel is V+ and a metal case is OV. So touching can short out the PSU - although often the paint on the pedal will avoid that happening, That may damage the PSU if it isn't protected against - but not the pedal since no significant current reaches it.

Ha! From the photo I'm thinking it's just the head so could be pulled over quite easily although it'd probably just pull a jack plug out ? Still funny though 🙂

Yeah - XLR simply sometimes used as a more secure physical (unbalanced) connection wrt a Jack. eg Hohner B2A etc. Although as I see it it sort of depends if you'd rather pull your amp/stack over rather than have your bass unplugged ?

Thanks for posting. Doesn't affect me but useful information in general. The 'Pin 3 = Signal +' convention is/was (?) I believe used by Shure Microphones ? But a Shure Mic XLR output will likely be balanced so the only issue would be polarity reversal. As you point out - if you unbalance the signal at one end then you have a problem as you are 'grounding' the only signal. The 'proper' AES way is, of course.: X(1)= Screen (and it should go directly to (metal) chassis but that's a slightly different subject) ; L(2) = 'Signal +' (ie the signal - original polarity) ; R(3) = 'Signal -' (ie the signal - opposite polarity). Now 'balanced' outputs may not have signal on both pins 2 and 3 if they are 'Impedance Balanced' or 'Ground Cancelling' so they will also have a problem with non-standard wiring. Personally I'd recommend rewiring to standard if practicable. Obviously it's a lot easier if connections are wired (just swapping over two wires) rather than on a PCB (where you'd need to cut and patch tracks). But then you'd be able to plug in anything - mics or other 'balanced' or unbalanced sources - and it should all work. On another point from the thread - I'd recommend Caig DeOxit products for contact cleaning etc. Basically remove oxide with DeOxit stuff. And remove grease/oil contamination with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA - but not the sort that comes in cans/bottles 🙂

I'm looking to get a single 'reduced OD washer' to fix up a Vintage (Brand not age !) bass where I've fitted a 'standard' machine head where there wasn't one. Looking for approx 12mm hole in 19mm Overall Diameter or similar. I can find 12 in 20mm (compared to standard 24mm) but I don't really want to buy a 'bagfull' when all but one would probably sit in a drawer indefinitely. So if anyone has something similar and would let me know then I'd be grateful. Keep Safe People

Happy New Tear to all. I'm trying to sort out something with a 'funny' little Satellite 'Bass'. Well I say bass but while it has 4 strings it's 24" scale length so less than a Strat ! So I'm thinking to string it with guitar strings - possibly heavy gauge but whatever to hand for now. I've replaced the poor bridge design - a single threaded rod with 'roller saddles' on it with individual bridge saddles at minimum spacing (ie touching) to get a narrow string spacing. That seems to work fine. But it's missing a machinehead. It has closed 'elephant ear' types with approx 12mm heasdstock hole with insert for approx 10mm post. Not very standard. Anyone know of machineheads to fit this or a bushing to adapt other sizes to a 12mm hole - I'd prefer to not have to drill / ream out the existing hole(s). Not really bothered by the type although a single elephant ear type would be good. Thanks.