rmorris

Thanks for the clarification. On the 'detective' front we've narrowed it down to London then 🙃 (no real idea if that is an appropriate emoticon !) I do hope you get it resolved.

Since this thread seems to have veered towards discussing Drum Plug Ins etc. It's probably relevant to ask the OP if that is particularly important to them ?

Well we all want to know the builder in question now of course ! Southern England based ? Understand if you can't give any clues. But as an observation on this, a problem that appears after five years or so is imo unlikely to be resolved by legal means unless there were explicit undertakings originally. BUT, if subsequent repair / maintenance work has been paid for and was not of reasonable quality / competence in the first place then there may be a legal / TSO route to resolve.

It won't cause a noise / interference problem. "High-Rel" electronic connector systems usually have more than one contact point even if it's not obvious.

Can't argue with the basis of a good performance being 'in the fingers'. But bear in mind that most bass playing heard through a Mixer/PA with a Sound Engineer running that is subject to dynamics processing for technical or subjective reasons.

I'll look at the advice again when I have time. I was just interested to run the demo. The Windows installation isn't the problem so I wouldn't look to wipe clean / re-install the OS with all the associated hassle and pitfalls. I guess it'll be going to Windows 11 before too long.

But all other things being equal (though they never are) you are reducing probability of signal loss. Same principle is applied to high quality (eg Penny & Giles) faders in mixing desks where 'multi finger' wipers are used. Lose contact on one "finger" - no issue - the difference in impedance wrt circuit / track impedance is negligible and there's no glitch in the signal.

Yeah - stuff happens. I couldn't install a BitWig Demo (Ableton competitor) onto this Laptop - Good Spec' HP i7 Laptop whilst Reaper and anything else I've tried has no issues. Had some advice from BitWig support re Cache etc so will try when convenient but not a priority timewise atm tbh.

I reckon Reaper is quite light on PC load. I run it on an old Windows XP desktop with 2GB an not noticed memory issues whilst running a good number of tracks @ 44.1 or 48 kHz. I'm not running loads of VST instruments on it. in case anyone wondering why old XP setup. It's an audio interface compatibility thing. If looking at more pattern based / EDM etc then other software might be preferable eg Ableton / Reason. But for straight audio recording then I'll say Reaper as the primary software solution.

Someone needs to mention Henry "King Thumb" Thomas of Rockschool fame I think. Oh ! Hang on ! I just did 😃 https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/8808-henry-king-thumb-thomas/

Interesting comment. But I'll just take a slightly different view that while an audience may not explicitly identify a sonic quality, the overall sound may influence the way they perceive the quality of the band etc. A 'lumpy' live bass sound that is often either inaudible or 'booming' is likely to put people off even when they don't recognise it. And I'll add that that may often be down to the PA and room acoustics regardless of the signal coming to the FOH desk.

I see. I think ? I'll add that I buy more than sell. Think I've only ever sold two basses and I regret having sold the first ! Have (sort of) replaced it with same ! Cheers in Bass. Wrong - I forgot about a Westone Thunder 1 fretless I sold.

I feel the need to admit that I didn't originally see that the OP was from 2009 !

Mmmm...how does that work ? Arithmetic is failing me 🤔

Well I guess you either appreciate the Steinberger body shape...or not. Def good for carrying. Think you may be right about the pickups. My 'Bottom E' and notes around there don't seem to have the 'authority' I expect. Usually other way with other basses if anything. Difficult to be definitive as there seem to be fee alternatives without going to the active EMG option that is more costly than I want to look at atm esp since it might not be the thing.

That would be a bargain but doesn't sound realistic ? I'd hope a retail shop would be sorting it with a basic truss rod relief and string / pickup height setup before it goes on the wall. But a fret dress is a bit optimistic imo. New strings might be good. Would more or less equate to the £20 discount I suggested. Assuming it's not a pack of cheap ones.

Assuming it's from the Matsu' factory then it should be excellent assuming no serious faults/damage. Retail Shop prices are going to be higher than eBay auctions but £199 doesn't seem out of range. Maybe haggle for £180 ? And given age it will likely benefit from pro setup Inc fret level so I'd budget for that and maybe get the shop to quote for that if it's something they can offer.

I don't get why the taper would be different ? Apart from errors due to track accuracy - but that's not really a 'taper'. I might be missing something !

Yes - and that's why I put a caveat in there 🙂 If I were considering a new (to me) bass then I would have the advantage of being within daily reach of that London so that does put a perspective on it.

Yes SS not easy to cut although that varies with grade/quality. I have worked SS with hand tools and Dremel type multitools. Though not for guitar stuff. SS frets get worked. I guess thinking pre cut SS nuts for end users. Hassle of fine adjustments might be outweighed by benefits of longevity.

Yeah - I vote: Visit shop ('proper bass /guitar' place that does setups etc.) Choose bass Play bass Play bass some more Buy bass only if it's set up and play in a way you like (also confirm that truss rod is not maxxed out or near to it) I know that it's not always easy to get to a good retailer and you don't get the advantage of distance selling rights but for something as tactile as a bass it has to be worth it ?

Fair Enough. Lots of people seem to advocate making much use of the BLEND control but tbh I hardly ever back it off from 100% ! I will say that I only really like it with moderate amount of DRIVE before it gets obviously grossly distorted. But even online Sansamp demos seem to go for the 'Speaker Break Up' thing. And it can get too noisy for comfort if you crank the TREBLE and - especially - PRESENCE. Not wanting to sound negative - I'm still happy to turn up with a bass and BDDI and confident of getting a decent tone to desk / monitors. I find it the (gasp!) Behringer BD121 to sound just as good and less capable of giving me too much distortion but ability to run BDDI on phantom is a bonus.

Well it seems the OP has had enough ? But in any case getting back to the issue I think the issue with the 'clack' likely comes down to: "I mean the 'clack' when I press a string and it hits the fret above and below." Taking that to mean that the OP tends to 'fret' somewhere behind the target fret rather than more 'on' it. Some setups won't have the same result and some basses won't make it as audible. And some players don't mind it. Raising the height at the nut might give some benefit depending on the fretting technique.

I think it was referring to the lead time before they'd be able to do it due to other work lined up. As it happens I was emailing with the Bass Gallery a couple of months ago and the turnaround time was advised as around two weeks.

I blame Idris Elba 🤣