rmorris

Simply - what do people recommend for neck cradle / support ? Seems that opinion varies from some quite expensive kit to 'Big Bag of Rice' type solutions... Something good for nut filing etc as well as string change convenience.

In that type of situation it's not just a case of smoothing it out. By setting the attack/release parameters appropriately you can make a compressor 'pump' deliberately to eg increase the transient clarity of your eighth note lines.

+1. OP is looking for a safety net in case the Helix fails and can't be sorted atm ? Eg by "Turning it on and off". So imo doesn't warrant a high outlay. And if the Helix does prove to be prone to flipping out then a proper solution is needed really. fwiw I'd recommend putting some sort of mains filter in the power feed to the Helix to reduce susceptibility to electrical issues at different venues.

Are your tuners lubricated ? Would you like us to assign someone to lubricate your tuners ?

For Lead Free you just need a hooter iron basically. A 'standard' 25W Antex or similar may struggle. You do need to keep more of an eye on the condition of the solder iron tip though.

There's an advantage to having the pot case grounded (albeit small if the cavity itself is shielded and grounded effectively) but it doesn't need to be the place where all the ground/screen connections join.

Well I was being rather brief so no problem. This really applies only to active basses that use a 'stereo' jack for the output and the screen connection of a mono jack plug is used to join the 'Ring' conductor to 'Screen' to complete the power circuit - hence the usual advice to unplug when not used inn order to avoid running batteries down quickly. So I'm just advising to wire to the 'Screen' connection on the output jack and not the 'Ring' connection. For clarity - 'Stereo' or 'Balanced' jack connections are referred to as "TRS" jacks. T = Tip (Signal +ve) R = Ring (next 'band' on the plug - Signal -ve for balanced audio; other channel for stereo) S = Screen To add to the fun also often used as combined Send/Return connector for unbalanced Insert points on mixers.

Yes (to the 0V connection (screen) of course. Be careful not to connect to the Ring Connection by mistake.

For the Copper Tape solution you first need to be certain that the adhesive is conductive. Some types are and some aren't. Soldering the wire to the tape should be fine. The possible problem you may have is a secure adhesive connection. Do key the pot casing to remove any coating / grease etc. But you'll still have a relatively small flat surface to fix the tape. Really 'squeegee' it down. I'd advise soldering the connection myself. Use a good sized. preferably temperature controlled iron. If it's a configuration where you are attaching one of the pot lugs to the casing to ground it - then bend the lug over to solder that. Then the wire can be more easily soldered to the lug using the hole in it to keep the wire in place.

Thanks for posting sensible advice on this topic. And to be clear about the conductivity (or resistance) of copper vs silver: It's not an issue. It doesn't matter. (because it's insignificant in the context of your output and input impedances). Mechanical integrity is key - basically your connector joints and cable relief. And cable capacitance makes a difference. Minimise unbalanced / Hi-Z cable runs.

Is that compared to running the bass passive ?

Wrt braiding / shielding. The 'delicacy' really depends on the construction. There are all sorts of tradeoffs with construction vs frequency vs flexing. But basically braided if static. Spiral (preferably Double Reussen) if flexed. Apart from that. Best thoughts to anyone reading this in these worrying times.

True. I was assuming a signal conductor made from multiple fine strands. Although the most critical point of failure is where it is terminated to the connector and there should be minimal flexing at that point.

There is no real advantage in having a signal conductor that has slightly better conductivity than copper. The electrical characteristics that matter are capacitance and screening. Mechanical integrity is also key. The advantage of having a decent sized conductor guage is to avoid it breaking.

Seems I got it wrong then. I used it to tape slugs to my bass. It's s bit slimy now 😳

Different electronics can easily have differing susceptibility to interference. wrt the pickups - yes they can make a big difference - type / construction / resistance / inductance all relevant. And pot / cap values and the wiring. Larger pot values will be more easily affected. It's still advisable to shield the other basses. Even though you may not hear interference through whatever setup you are using it may show up in a different system (typically one with more high frequency response eg cab with tweeters or in a studio environment. Also, they may be shielded with conductive paint ? - It usually black. imo not as good as metal but can be effective if properly applied. Hope you get it sorted.

Conductive adhesive on the tape is definitely needed unless seams are made by solder or pressure. If the "slug tape" adhesive is reasonably conductive then fine but if it's not it will not shield effectively. And there is definitely adhesive copper tape that has non-conductive adhesive. It's a source of frustration / amusement in the world of EMC testing when a "non-technical" customer doesn't understand why they are having problems despite wrapping stuff with copper tape. Test with DMM shows it's not electrically connected as it has non-conductive adhesive. And put good pressure on the adhesive join to get a good connection. (You generally need to rely on pressure for screening 'detatchable' bits eg control cavity covers / scratchplates. Connecting scratchplates / pickguards to the screen will also help avoid 'static' noises caused by rubbing the scratchplate / screws.

Have you considered half round / ground wound / pressure wound string options ?

CPC (part of Farnell but prices often cheaper with free delivery over £17 I think atm). Ebay sellers can be quick if UK stock.

are the cavities screened ?

tbf U don't think anyone checks for corroded screws before selling a bass ? Use stainless steel screws for replacement.

Anything else in the signal path ?

Start with the original pickup. You can always change it later.

Questions not Judgements - but is it really worth the time/expense/risk to DIY fretwork if it's just going to be a one or two off ? You're going to need serious tools - straight edges / clamps / files etc and patience. I'd suggest that, if serious, a hands on in person tutored course is the preferred route.

thanks for the info'. And I won't hold breath on getting a schematic from Mr Button then ! Still - he has quite a legacy with Trace, Ashdown and more... Maybe 'we' (not that I'm an admin here) should grant him some sort of honorary Basschat title ?