rmorris

+1 This is the important thing to know.

I recommend taking a look at the Caig Deoxit product range. (No association). Also if socket contacts have lost their 'springiness' the could try to push the contacts to compenstae. Else replace if possible ?

I've had a look inside. There are several voltage regulators. IIRC both 9V and 12V. So it seems 18V would generate more heat but that might not be a problem. 12V unlikely to be okay for 12V regulator - I don't think it was a very low drop type (that might be okay if the 12V in was actually a tad more). But the 12V in should just come through unregulated which might be okay if it's already regulated and quiet enough..?

He has quite a lot of patience :-) I guess next stage would be to investigate the fabrication of the cables wrt screening - eg conductive foil / drain wire ; braid ; spiral shield / double spiral etc. Plugs an obvious point where screening might be compromised.

That link comes along with a safety warning on my PC courtesy of Avast...

Not necessarily. Jazz bass shape offers alternative aesthetic and there are significant differences in the neck, nut width etc...

Yes - working out the real transformer operating conditions requires knowledge of the source and load impedances, transformer specs' and a calculator ! The specs are fairly meaningless without a test circuit diagram. re isolation - Orchid state that they have appropriate (non switchable) circuitry to obviate the need for earth lift and also allows phantom operation. Without having one in front of me I asssume this is along the lines of a resistor / capacitor parallel connection from the input 0V to chassis ? This should work in nearly all cases (exceptions I'm thinking are eg outside broadcast in electronically hostile environments).

+1 and saves me writing much the same wrt fidelity etc. If you want really high fidelity in terms of low frequency distortion from a transformer only solution then you will need a big (expensive) transformer. But you may well be happy (or happier) with some 'euphonic harmonic enhancement' from a technically inferior transformer. I'll note that the Pickup / Impedance issue likely doesn't apply to the OP's requirements since, I assume, the DI will be driven from the Ampeg Preamp so I'm assuming that has a low and fixed output impedance ??? So you probably don't need the impedance (and associated level) transformation. Essentially a passive DI is a component in a system and it's 'sound' will depend on the rest of the system. An active solution can buffer itself from the effect of the input source and output load and better define its operation.

So it sounds as if your DI out on the XLR is a 'normal' non isolated balanced output while your parallel feed to your amp is transformer (galvanically) isolated. I've long thought that it would be an advantage to have the 'Link' output on DI boxes isolated (or fed by a 'Ground Cancelling' type output that can work into an unbalanced output and still reject 'ground loop' noise effectively - but that's a bit of a different and technical tangent,,,)

Just ordered...

Shielding - and grounding the shield well - will improve rejection of radiated noise. Whether you can hear any difference in a given environment is a different matter.

First thing is to makke sure the aluminium of the pickguard is in good contact with the copper tape - ideally all the way around so it forms closest you can get to complete enclosure. Second - Copper is a technically better screening material than aluminium but aluminium will do a good job too.

Do you know the thread spec' of the saddles ?

+1 Just cut it off; re prep the cable following OBBD recommendations, Clean up the XLR - I recommend using 'solder wick' ; tin up cable and connector and off you go :-)

Those EMG 'Select' pickups on the Hohner B2A (I have one) are Hi-Z pickups ( witness you can switch the on board preamp out of circuit and still get a good strength signal) so not the 'trademark' EMG Lo-Z technology.

I reckon you'll need to define what species you want first and whether you want it seasoned / ovened or whatever...

Just a quick note to say that not all TE SMX compressor pedals sound the same. I had two at one point and noticed a difference. Looking inside the PCB issue number was different. I haven't found anything documented on it - might just be a level difference...or something. One definitely sounded 'better' somehow so obvs I kept that one.

First stop: nut height ?

Can you be more specific on the actual make / model of the EQ unit ?

[quote name='Al Krow' timestamp='1508845045' post='3394775'] Sweepable frequency 20Hz to 20khz Q Q adjusts equalizer 0.5 to 16.0 Gain -20.0 to +20.0 I'm not entirely sure what the "Q" does, but I'll have a tinker! [/quote] 'Q' is a measure of the bandwidth of a filter. The higher the Q the more selective the filter. Rough Guide: Lower Q values = broader filter curve and tend to sound more natural. High Q values for targetting (cutting) particular 'problem' frequencies / resonances. I just saw others had answered along the same lines as I didn't see the second page.

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1507211951' post='3383964'] Most Fenders live with the same plastic nut for years. There's no reason why a plastic one won't last on a bass for ages, unless it gets knocked. [/quote] Yes - that was my point really. That a nut tends to last ages - possibly as long as the bass - anyway (not that I haven't had broken nuts on some old basses). Not suggesting that brass is too soft to use - obvs lots of brass nuts out there...

[quote name='Deester' timestamp='1507118626' post='3383411'] Looking for the best option in terms of a replacement. I like the idea of a brass nut as, in theory, it will never need to be replaced again but if I do go for brass, [/quote] I'm not sure why a brass nut would need replacing any less frequently than an alternative - not that nuts need replacing very often. Brass is quite a soft metal.

Yes - there are 'Fine Thread' Potenmtiometer fixing nuts. It's always a problem to get single pieces of small items like this. Prob this type of thing: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-X-0-75-Pitch-Lock-Nut-For-Guitar-Pot-potentiometer-Pack-Of-5-50-100-/281867227480"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-X-0-75-Pitch-Lock-Nut-For-Guitar-Pot-potentiometer-Pack-Of-5-50-100-/281867227480[/url] Best option is ifg you can find a 'scrap' nut from something. Elese I've worked out it's cheaper to buy a pot and use the nut from it - from CPC etc...

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1503041028' post='3355195'] Made my own. [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AAx8-AA-x-8-Battery-Holder-Case-Enclosed-Box-With-On-Off-Switch-Leads/400570557989?_trkparms=aid%3D555014%26algo%3DPL.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20151005190705%26meid%3D18c19475bf0c4b20a6c2c7a12bfe4695%26pid%3D100506%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26&_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226"]http://www.ebay.co.u...3.c100506.m3226[/url] and 8 eneloop pros. Just reverse the polarity on the attached cable. [/quote] Looks a useful box but I'm not clear - Are you removing the batteries to charge them ?

[quote name='BigBassBob' timestamp='1502724971' post='3353125'] I'm thinking that's not the image you wanted to link as that's very far from a compressor [/quote] +10