rmorris

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1489639109' post='3258549'] Give the soundman two separate feeds as suggested above. Andy - I would watch it if trying to blend a Torpedo with clean DI live. The Torpedo is digital so has a slight processing delay. This is only a few ms, so not big enough to be noticeable by itself, but if you mix that with clean you might experience comb filtering effects like a flanger stuck at one point of its sweep. This is a benefit of the analog nature of the OmniCabSim! [/quote] yeah - that's important to note. You can't really put digital processing in parrallel with an all analogue path due to the delay on the digital signal and resulting phase issues ie comb filtering. But if the Torpedo has a 'clean out' which has the same delay as the CabSim output then that could be used.

I reckon an IEC power socket would be best on the rear face - less likely to tread on power lead - and use a right angle IEC plug on the mains lead too minimise 'stick out' ? Alternatively some users may prefer a captive lead option at a reasonable length to reach a power strip etc. Nice woodworking btw

[quote name='hubrad' timestamp='1489494785' post='3257367'] The more modern Schaller, the 2000, can get you down to a smidge over 15mm. (also up to about 20, I think) I have this model on a couple of basses, 4 and 5 string. [url="https://www.schaller-electronic.com/hp135112/Bass-Bridge-2000-4-string.htm"]https://www.schaller...00-4-string.htm[/url] [/quote] That bridge does look good ! I like it :-)

forgot to say... the other option I toyed with was using those individual nuts where there's one per string so you can get whatever you need. But the placement is more work and trigonometry ! They also seem to require some 'woodwork' beyond just drilling...

well do check the spacing you need. Mine seemed to be particularly narrow. Maybe yours is wider ? 16mm would make things a lot easier...

Looking at the pics on your original post - I had same sort of thing - a CMI EB0 copy. Narrowness of string spacing (something like 15mm from memory) a big problem for a new bridge. All the standard bridges wouldn't accomodate this - including the adjustable Schaller type. What I did was find a six string bass bridge on ebay with approximately the right spacing annd use that (with two of the saddles unused). The bridge was a one off sale from an incomplete project and is unbranded so I can't give a source for it. Any other bridge would have resulted in the E / G strings being on the edge or off the board. But given the height of the original bridge I had to raise it up considerably. For this I used a piece of hardwood moulding - 8mm height - screwed onto the bass body and mounted the bridge itself onto that. I think i needed to put a shim in the neck pocket too. Looks a bit odd though ! Drilling was no problem - clean up the surface after removing the old bridge and use masking tape for pencil marks and to stop the surface finish breaking up. Difficult bit was aligning the bridge / pilot holes accurately. Measure twice / drill once etc...

Bought his Zoom B9.1ut. Problem free purchase. Am pleased :-)

Hust taken delivery of some HiCon flat jacks to make some patch cables. Excellent prompt despatch and comms.

Bought a Source Audio BEF from Graham. Despatched and arrived super quickly with no issues. Recommended.

[quote name='Sibob' timestamp='1488292000' post='3247576'] If the issue is your bass (i.e. a lack of a feature), why not have a luthier add a passive tone control on your bass? Easy enough to do. Even possible to have a tone control work across active and passive, pretty helpful. Si [/quote] +1 This. Although I'd say stick with the active option myself...

[quote name='Heathy' timestamp='1488039423' post='3245314'] I make no apologies if this is a stupid question as I know virtually nothing about electronics: Before I get to work on my Studio 220, is this something that anyone could do, or are any tools required? [/quote] Soldering Iron (Medium size tip) Solder (Should use Lead free solder but note you will need quite powerful soldering iron to make a good job of it) Long Nose Pliers / Tweezers (so you can keep your pinkies away from the hot bits !) Solder Wick Braid to clean up any solder splashes Solder Pump would be handy to clear the holes but should be okay to use the solder wick for this Be sure to get the joint hot enough to melt the solder and let it flow to avoid 'dry' joints

[quote name='fleabag' timestamp='1487940366' post='3244369'] Thanks guys Cant sell the bass and use another body ...i'm rather attached to this one. Well, not all of it, obviously PS work would have to be out sourced, as i'm talentless in this area of bass mods. I was just wondering how a builder would have done it [/quote] Seems to me that by the time you've had all that work done it won't really be the same body...

Remember going into PCs venue on City Road Cardiff in the 80s and working out what sort of band would be on later from the bass set up. Gibson whatever with a scruffy Marshall Stack = Rocky Status ( or cheaper !) headless propped up in front of a Trace Elliot rig - 80's pop !

[quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1487775356' post='3242722'] Correct this is why "power conditioners" are big in the USA and not here. Much old waiting in the US was done with aluminium not copper and that is more problematic, much noisier. Surge Protectors and power conditioners are sna[size=4]ke oil over here. [/size] [/quote] Predictive text does it's magic again...

[quote name='synthaside' timestamp='1487765002' post='3242527'] I use these , http://www.woodieshanger.com/product-category/hangers/ , there Ace , easy to take off and on invisible and they provide no tension on the necks , as the guitars are being held by their strap buttons , IE what we use to hold the damn thing on us when playing anyway. http://www.woodieshanger.com/product-category/hangers/ Mine are here , https://goo.gl/photos/g8QeFv2Hp3wVqfdg8 [/quote] They do look good ! Nice and minimal

Seem to be two issues here ? Finger noise from finger on string and 'Metal on Metal' noise/clank/buzz from fretting etc. Flats will reduce the finger noise but may be worth looking at half round / groundwound / pressure wound types to keep the sound more like a roundwound ? btw Is it my imagination or are these types of strings not so widely discussed / promoted now compared to a few years ago ? And of course turning down the top end will reduce all the noises talked about here. You might be surprised at the amount of 'noises' in a solo bass track. Of course if there's any significant 'grit' in use it'll probably be inaudible in any case.

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1487168286' post='3237708'] This. I'd also add that resistance is also dependant on the number of turns in the coil AND the gauge of the wire used. So without knowing all this resistance if the coil doesn't really tell you a lot. The truth is a pickup works through induction, not resistance. [/quote] +1 As stated it's actually the inductance which is important here. The resistance is somewhat indicative of the inductance but depends on wire gauge (and material though it's going to be copper). Resistance is more readily measured which means its often quoted. To add to things the inductance itself varies with frequency depending on the construction an materials (magnets / core) used in the pickup...

Yes it's fine to do this. The pickup then works straight into the input impedance of the amp / di / whatever you're plugged into. This will result in a higher input impedance compared to having a volume and/or tone controls on the bass. Generally this will give a brighter sound (plus more sustain although you might not notice it). If you want to 'tame' this without pots then simply try different value resistors across the output (from signal to ground / shield).

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1487278280' post='3238652'] Are you asking if, by using a different size of capacitor, you might get something like a scooped sound? I think the answer to this is "no" [/quote] +1 Basically you won't get a notch / scoop with a simple passive tone circuit. Also the impedance seen by the pickup alters with the setting so that affects the sound itself.

you can experiment with caps - as indicated smaller cap means the frequency roll off starts higher. But why not use the EQ on the preamp itself - it'll doubtless give you much more control whatever type it is ?

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1486762155' post='3234482'] Lighter fluid is the best for this task as it'll leave next to no residue behind and will not harm the finish. Other products can make any future refinish work very difficult. [/quote] +1

[quote name='adriansmith247' timestamp='1486640711' post='3233428'] I have just got hold of one of these pedals second hand but am not happy with the overdrive sound. When I turn up the drive control the sound cracks up and there is a loud HF whistle. Maybe my pedal isn't working right. Should the overdrive sound smooth? If so I may try getting another one thanks [/quote] The HF whistle sounds like a fault unless it's actually feedback via your bass which can happen as there can be a lot of gain through the device. Try moving away from the speaker and see if it still happens. tbh I don't think these devices (BDI21 and Sansamp BDDI) sound good with the DRIVE set high. Too much break up. Some people seem to like that though. With DRIVE reduced they do a great job imho.

[quote name='JPJ' timestamp='1486645032' post='3233481'] I had one when I was going through an 'effects phase' and liked it but found it performed much better when powered from a transformer than when battery powered. [/quote] +1

[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1486492948' post='3232274'] No, just grind the end off with the Dremel. Allen keys are hardened steel and a bit of a pain to hacksaw. You don't need to take a lot off to restore the end. [/quote] You could be right. Guess I tend to be a little heavy handed with rotary tools and go through more of the cut / grind accesories than I'd like. I'd likely use a linisher myself as I have access to one at my work but I guess that's not generally an option.

[quote name='radiophonic' timestamp='1486457979' post='3231848'] I don't want to radically alter the sound of the Jazz, but a bit of a boost at the frequency extremes to even out the differences a bit would be helpful. I like what the Jazz can do on it's own, but the contrast with a stingray is pretty stark, especially when swapping mid set or even mid song. The ideal solution would be a different (and active) fretless (probably another stingray in fact), but I need to sell the Jazz and in the meantime I have gigs to play. It sounds like a s/h eq pedal would do the job as a short term fix and then I could sell it on. I just missed an MXR in the classifieds alas, but I'll try lugging my bass down to PMT at the weekend and see what they have. [/quote] Sounds like a pedal graphic EQ would be the thing. Previously I've recommended: [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Chord BEQ-50 ?[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Great build quality 7 band bass eq. Good Prices.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Not expensive (and cheaper s/h of course) so likely no need to sell it on and it's always [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]handy to have something like this to hand.[/font][/color]