Musky

[quote name='shizznit' timestamp='1343769003' post='1755057'] The only downside about 410's is the weight. They can tend to be quite heavy. [/quote] In a nutshell. More people want lightweight cabs, so 4x10's have fallen from favour. Dispersion might be a problem but it's a problem that many are blissfully unaware of.

Well done chaps, and thanks for the hard work. Any chance you could up the font size a little or use black though? It's a bit difficult to read at the moment.

Completely mad isn't it. I bought a B2V body recently for £20 - and even that was a good fiver more than it should have gone for!

The Bad Monkey does lose a bit of bottom end, though how much that's going to bother you will depend on exactly how much [i]deep[/i] bass you need. The Badder Monkey or SFX's mod will suit if it's likely to be a problem. It doesn't do fuzz though. Sadly there's no simple one-stop overdrive pedal that will suit everyone. Loads of pedals go from mild drive to fuzz, but whether the tone and character of the pedal suits is down to individual taste. Finding the one that works for you is down to trial and error, and for every recommendation of sonic nirvana someone else will say it's rubbish.

[quote name='silddx' timestamp='1343661858' post='1753293'] WTF is it with Thomann?! They seem to send out loads of dodgy gear. [/quote] See all the posts on here from people who think that something should be sold as 'ex-demo' because it's got a fingerprint on it.

[quote name='silddx' timestamp='1343674853' post='1753583'] And folk sold little, except for a few lauded artists. Then 'nu-folk' came along, played by frail looking boys with A Levels and sea-dog facial accoutrement, moths escaping jumpers with more lines than their songs, winsome lasses with dandelions sprouting from lips tinted rouge with handpicked raspberry stains, straw in their hair from imagined summery hay-barn ruttery, lilting voices and entry-level Taylors enticing the moths from your wallets with stories about living in caves in west London ... [/quote] Yep. I had anti-folk very much in mind when I wrote that.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1343674177' post='1753565'] But doing something like not dressing as you are expected to might be what you need to give your band the edge over all the other authentic roots bands. [/quote] You won't get any argument from me there - as I said, you can break the rules all you like. But it does require some thought as to the image you're projecting, whether that be jeans and a T shirt or something more outrageous.

What seems to be coming through here is that some people enjoy a visual element to a live performance, and that others don't. So why would anyone want to alienate part of their audience? It was mentioned that the discussion was supposed to be about dressing up to the nines, and that plenty of artists don't do that. But image needn't be about dressing up - plenty of successful artists don't. Image [i]is[/i] about presenting a consistent and consonant face however. Folk, for instance, almost never involves dressing up and to do so would actually be a turn off for many. For many folk is about keeping it real and being an authentic unmediated representation of creative expression (and hence of life). But the image is there nonetheless. You can break the rules as much as you like, but if you're trying to persuade an audience that you're an authentic roots band you might face an uphill struggle if you go out wearing spandex catsuits.

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1343249223' post='1747855'] He knows full well it's a Kay - probably a Kay K-32. He probably worked it out as he rubbed out the logo from the t/r cover. Giving him the benefit of the doubt that it was removed prior to him getting his murdering mits on it, why has he completely glossed over the light wood (maple ??) slice in the middle of the mahogany sandwich body. Normally he'd be all over a feature like that... but not this time. To recognisable a feature? [/quote] I started out on the Precision version of these things. It wasn't wood between the top and bottom pieces, but some kind of filler/glue. Definitely wasn't mahogany either - it was more like Agathis, but probably just some local wood that happened to be cheaply available. The entire thing was made from the same type of wood - it weighed a ton as well.

[quote name='noelk27' timestamp='1343248570' post='1747843'] Because he's clueless. First rule in guitar repair club is learn the terminology. It's a nut, not a zero fret. It's relief, not concavity. It's plywood, not mahogany. [/quote] Priceless.

[quote name='the hand of john curley' timestamp='1343235635' post='1747565'] Oops !!! Been moderated!!!! Apologies ! Won't happen again !!! [/quote]The forum software does that automatically.

[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1343073657' post='1744911'] [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Strat-style-guitar-in-varnished-mahogany-unbranded-hand-built-/190699859151?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item2c6698eccf"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2c6698eccf[/url] [/quote] I wonder what on earth led him to believe that was hand built. It looks remarkably like one of those cheap Kay copies that were knocked up in Taiwan in the late 70s/early eighties.

Play it. Enjoy it. Gig it. If it picks up a few dings and marks along the way (which it will), then so be it. It's natural to want to keep your bass as pristine as is humanly possible, and the first will annoy you greatly, but you'll get used to it. The second, third and all the rest will bother you less. Otherwise by a beaten up MM and gig that, using the new one at home and in the studio - but I bet I know which one you'll end up loving the most.

A weak, spineless liar, who can't even do that well. Yep, you're definitely better off without.

I've never tried adding attachments to a message, but it looks like it is possible. If you use the full editor for messaging there's a 'My Media' button. If you click on that and then click 'attachments' in the pop up box it should bring up all the attachments you've used in the various forums. Only when I tried it, it didn't. Clicking the 'finished' button did then bring them up and allowed me to add them to my post, but then clicking on the 'finished' button again wouldn't close the pop up box! The only way I could get the box to close was by clicking on 'Save my message', which was still visible in the main editing page. I didn't take it any further as I didn't want to actually send a message, but it [i]should[/i] have worked out.

In the comics world they stopped using the word mint quite some time ago, as simply adding staples would introduce stress marks in the paper! Instead they used a detailed grading which went up to 99. There's still a certain amount of subjectivity involved and it doesn't stop anyone being 'generous' with their assessment, but I'm sure I've seen a similar kind of rating for guitars in the past. Doesn't seem to have caught on though.

[quote name='TonyBones' timestamp='1342954994' post='1743049'] Best I've used [url="http://www.londonchroming.co.uk/"]http://www.londonchroming.co.uk/[/url] not cheep but thats life you get what you pay for, my first choice when i build one off parts for chops. [/quote] Ahh, I was just about to say there's a place down the Old Kent Rd! A guitarist I played with years ago had a bridge chromed - it cost him £80 as far as I remember (and we're talking about 28 years ago) but they did a very good job with no problems with the various threaded holes.

[quote name='andydye' timestamp='1342982507' post='1743434'] You'll pay import duty on the 'electrical goods' rate iirc (might be 9%, can't remember) and vat, all based on the total price inc shipping in £s... Pretty though!! [/quote] Electric instruments have [url="http://tariff.businesslink.gov.uk/tariff-bl/export/heading.html?export=false&simulationDate=22/07/12&id=9207000000&additionalCode1=&additionalCode2=&additionalCode3=&countryCode="]their own category [/url]at a more reasonable 3.7%/ There's a handy site at www.dutycalculator.com which takes all the hard work out of calculating the costs. You just have to remember to add £8 - £15 admin charges as well.

I was wondering what the hell was going on with that ramp and the unusually honest sales pitch. And then I noticed the seller's name.

The [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/fender_rumble_112.htm"]Fender Rumble 112[/url] might be worth considering as well, though the 500w figure is peak - it's 250w RMS.

[quote name='Truckstop' timestamp='1342887705' post='1742441'] Quite. My backstreet penis reduction was a disaster. Truckstop [/quote] Classic!

[quote name='mckendrick' timestamp='1342744308' post='1740464'] Er, yes.... thanks, Musky.... got them... and the rest.... ...and even those tables aren't the bible. All that five digt/six digit stuff dosn't always ring true. I've noted the recent return to MIJ elsewhere. Shame they stopped short of using 'V' again, That would have thrown some sh*t at the fan. You'd have been typing till Sunday. . [/quote] What was going on with the 'V' serial then? An abridged version would be OK, just so you're only typing until Friday afternoon.

[quote name='mckendrick' timestamp='1342727188' post='1740169'] All as above.... ....plus, I have a 62 Jazz which I've owned from new which is CIJ P series. I bought it new in 2001. Hope this helps. [/quote] Rather confusingly Fender Japan have been recycling some of their serial numbers, so whether it's CIJ or MIJ makes a difference (that's why that serial number dater website always asks where it was made). But to confuse things further the return of MIJ and the reuse of the prefixes has made things rather more tricky, especially with recent T and U serials. All recent MIJ's begin T/U 0 + 5 digits. Older MIJ's were T/U + 6 digits, which could begin with any number [i]including zero[/i]. From [url="http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fenderjapan.co.jp%2Fsupport.html"]Fender Japan[/url] [b]Serial number[/b] [b]Approximate year of manufacture[/b] Made in Japan JV + 5 digits 1982-1984 Made in Japan SQ + 5 digits 1983-1984 Made in Japan E + 6 digits 1984-1987 Made in Japan A + 6 digits 1985-1986 Made in Japan B + 6 digits 1985-1986 Made in Japan C + 6 digits 1985-1986 Made in Japan F + 6 digits 1986-1987 Made in Japan G + 6 digits 1987-1988 Made in Japan H + 6-digit number 1988-1989 Made in Japan I + 6-digit number 1989-1990 Made in Japan J + 6 digits 1989-1990 Made in Japan K + 6-digit number 1990-1991 Made in Japan L + 6 digits 1991-1992 Made in Japan M + 6-digit number 1992-1993 in Japan N + 6-digit number 1993-1994 Made in Japan O + 6 digits 1993-1994 Made in Japan P + 6-digit number 1993-1994 Made in Japan Q + 6 digits 1993-1994 Made in Japan S + 6 digits 1994-1995 Made in Japan T + 6-digit number 1994-1995 Made in Japan U + 6 digits 1995-1996 Made in Japan V + 6 digits 1996-1997 Crafted in Japan A + 6 digits 1997-1998 Crafted in Japan N + 5-digit number 1995-1996 Crafted in Japan O0 + 5-digit number 1997-2000 Crafted in Japan P0 + 5-digit number 1999-2002 Crafted in Japan Q0 + 5-digit number 2002-2004 Crafted in Japan R0 + 5-digit number 2004-2006 Crafted in Japan S0 + 5-digit number 2006-2008 Crafted in Japan T0 + 5-digit number 2007-2008 Made in Japan T0 + 5-digit number 2007-2010 Made in Japan U0 + 5-digit number 2010-2012 Made in Japan JD12 + 6-digit number 2012 -

The majority of instruments prior to 97 were MIJ, but there were CIJ's about as well. Crafted in Japan appeared exclusively between 96/97 and 2007/08, but CIJ instruments were being made from about '92. An exception was with signature and some reissue basses, which often had MIJ on the headstock but CIJ stamped on the heel. MIJ made a return in 2008.

The bridge won't be a simple replacement - the SB's had recessed bridges and the Gotoh is a standard surface mounted one.