Musky

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1338897483' post='1680708'] That says a short causes no harm at all, which is as I said, low impedance is not an issue for damage concerns. [/quote] You know what - I've taken that post as gospel for years, only to now discover that I'd misread/misunderstood it! Stll can't use my Trace without hooking up a second cab though.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1338895138' post='1680625'] Can you explain why? Especially for low impedance loads. [/quote] Oxblood posted an informative post ages ago. http://basschat.co.uk/topic/5427-valve-amp-heat/page__view__findpost__p__57345 He knows his stuff as well - he virtually rebuilt a VA350.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1338853198' post='1680183'] In that scenario its double the power handling of the weakest cab, since power is shared equally, it doesn't go to the higher one once the weaker one is 'full'[/quote] Good point. [quote] Too low is apparently OK, the output jacks are shorting to stop death in case of no load, its plugged in to amp with nothing on the lead that is the killer, since that opens the short. Basically, a full circuit on the secondary means the transformer still works as a transformer due to current being able to pass through the completed coil giving it an inductance value, instead of an electromagnet, where the field collapses and puts a voltage spike back through the valves. This is bit on the limits of my understanding, but that is how I currently picture it. [/quote] I understood that too low an impedance would run the valves hotter, shortening their life. Though not disastrous, blowing a valve is never a good thing.

There's quite a few looping pedals available - Akai Headrush, Line 6 DL4/JM4, Boss RC30/RC3 (or older RC20/RC2) and plenty of others. Which one would be the best choice for you will depend on what you had in mind exactly. Edit: What Phil said!

[quote name='Lord Sausage' timestamp='1338828441' post='1679756'] Also what about ohms? If you have say an amp that's 500w at 4ohms and 350w at 8 ohms and you run it thru a 4x12 that handles 500w at 8 ohms, i take it you'll get 350. If you add say a 1x15 cab that is 8 ohm would you still get 350 or do the ohms increase or decrease. Would i have to buy 4ohm cabs. Do you worst, I can handle condescension due the my arrogance and giant intellect in other areas!!! ha ha! [/quote] If you add a second 8 ohm cab impedance will halve, giving you a total load of 4 ohms. That means the amp will now be producing 500w. The total thermal power handling of your speakers will be 500w plus the wattage of your extra cab, with the power being shared equally between them. Transistor amps will have a minimum impedance they can work with - most often that's 4 ohms but some amps will drive down to 2 ohms. Unless your amp has a minimum impedance of 2 ohms using two 4 ohm cabs will blow the amp. Valve amps work differently in that they always have the maximum stated wattage available, but must be switched to the correct impedance (they'll either have a switch or separate speaker outputs marked with the appropriate impedance). Using a valve amp at too high an impedance (or without any speakers connected) will leave you with an expensive repair bill - too low and you'll shorten the life of the valves.

Yep. Many years ago I came up with a bassline and the guitarist did his own part to complement it. First time we played it to someone else they said it sounded like a Lords of the New Church b-side - I mean literally a specific track (can't remember the name) rather than a condemnation of the quality of the song! On listening to said track it did sound very, very similar. I owned the single so probably played the b-side, though don't remember it making enough of an impression to make me want to play it again. The weird thing was that the guitarist hadn't even heard any LoTNC and yet his part was very close to the original as well.

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1338568236' post='1676588'] I'm afraid the last two pages have just passed me by. I've read it all, but roughly half of it makes no sense at all. The listing said, and I quote: Postage & Packing = Free collection in person Service = Collection in person I'm NOT a lawyer, but I would cheerfully go to Court on this one. Sending a courier is NOT collection in person. Sending a courier and expecting the vendor to packup a 40Kg cabinet IS taking the piss. IMHO, the vendor should invite the purchaser to collect in person, paying cash on arrival, or expect to be reported to eBay for breach. [/quote] This pithy post from Jack sums up the start and finish of the OP's problems. It was collect in person. Not collect on behalf of person, allow agent to collect, entrust to courier or anything else. [b]Collect in person.[/b] Nobody has as yet posted a link to ebay's ruling that sending a courier constitutes collecting in person, so quite honestly everything else is moot - the buyer falls at the first hurdle.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1338573812' post='1676720'] The buyer trusts the courier, its them that is contracting with them. That makes it exactly the same situation as if they sent any other third party, except with the additional guarantee of a recognised name of the courier, and the requirement for them to leave paperwork. Its all about co-operation to get your item sold. If you make yourself difficult to deal with deliberately, that is the whole point of the feedback system. [/quote] The buyer doesn't know the courier(s) who is acting on behalf of his trusted agent (UPS). Therefore there can be no trust with the courier, just with the reputation of the firm (or firms) he's working for. You've got very little chance of being able to ring that courier and ask where the hell he is and when he's going to arrive, nor very much chance of arranging for him to collect at about 8pm - especially if you wanted to meet at a mutually agreeable place other than an easily identifiable address. I can agree that it's all about co-operation, although I wouldn't describe ignoring a seller's specified terms as co-operation. The seller presumably wanted to avoid a lot of hassle by not posting - by ignoring the conditions of sale the buyer has just given him grief by the bucket load. Had he not minded all that hassle he probably would have got a higher price to start with.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1338567795' post='1676576'] Refusal to co-operate with an entirely reasonable request to act through the buyer's agent is cheerfully grounds for a neutral feedback. [/quote] Does ebay actually state that 'collection in person' means any agent the buyer chooses to use? 'Collection in person' is a widely used phrase that is usually understood to mean that the person you're in contact with will collect themselves, personally. If you were to say you'll deliver in person, most people wouldn't expect to find a postman knocking on their door just because he's your agent. It doesn't really matter to most people whether the actual buyer turns up, his mum or anybody else. What matters is that you can have direct contact with the buyer, arrange a convenient time and place, place it in the hands of someone trusted by the buyer and conclude the deal. Which is exactly why a courier isn't the same at all

[quote name='Balcro' timestamp='1338502316' post='1675680'] Hi jaydentaku, My quick researches back up what you said earlier - it's something the guitarist had lying around. Indications are that it's a guitar cabinet, not optimised for the best bass. Some H&H stuff was marketed as guitar/bass, but I don't think that one was. Balcro. [/quote] Seems to have been intended as dual purpose - http://www.hhamplification.co.uk/speakerpic.asp?bigpics=dbfiles/speakers/215b.jpg Speaker technology has come on a long way since the seventies however, and I wouldn't expect that to be great for much in the way of true bass. Having said that, the cab that has been my favourite and the one I've hung onto for the best part of 30 years is a Marshall guitar cab. But it's always been about the low mids rather than bass for me anyway. Sounds rather like a case of GAS to me, as you don't mention anything that you feel you're missing out on other than features. Worth bearing in mind that plenty of well regarded amps have less in the way of features, like the LH500. But if you fancy another amp a Trace is a reasonable enough place to start, and to be fair probably a 'better' amp. Whether you'll like it better is another matter.

[quote name='GregBass' timestamp='1338404576' post='1674138'] Hmm. Note that we can't see the x-axis scale. [/quote] It's in the bit at the bottom of the graph marked 'time scale' [quote]That horizontal portion could be 10ns or 10 minutes. Are you saying that if it's 10 minutes, we are not seeing DC? [/quote] Yes. [quote]At which point does it stop being a blip on a waveform and start being DC?[/quote] At the point does it stops alternating between positive and negative and stops being a wave. [quote]Just asking - because if you connect a scope to a battery via an open switch, close the switch for a while then open it again you see a square wave (try it). Does this mean the battery does not produce a direct voltage? Or would you have to be selective about which bit of the waveform you look at?[/quote] I'd expect to see a pulsating current when you switch something on and off. Not a square wave though, just something that looks like one. [quote]BTW, I did acknowledge that I had misread your statement. [/quote] Missed that, sorry.

[quote name='GregBass' timestamp='1338403002' post='1674103'] Both of your statements are wrong on many counts (sorry to go back to the theory, but I have to challenge this). DC is not "opposed" to AC in any way. If you want to "oppose" an AC, you need to take the original waveform and invert it. [/quote] You'll note I said "The [b]definition[/b] of DC is completely opposed to that of an AC waveform". Please notice the bold bit - picking and choosing which bits to look at often leads to confusion. [quote] On your second point, read this carefully. Look at the trace to which I put the link earlier in this thread - the picture of the scope at the right-hand side of the article. Now take two fingers and cover up the bits at the left and right where the voltage value is rising then falling. Look only at the bit in the middle that's horizontal. Now, in this portion the physics applies, and DC looks exactly like that. OK? That was my point. For a portion of a clipped waveform, the trace is DC. I was not trying to say it's all DC. Just that bit. What happens in the rest of the trace is outside what I was talking about.[/quote] Once again - picking and choosing which bits to look at often leads to confusion. If it's a wave, it's not DC. An authoratative link for you - http://www.excelsior-audio.com/Publications/Square_Waves_&_DC_Content.pdf

[quote name='GregBass' timestamp='1338398956' post='1673992'] Wow Bill - so if you have a trace that's completely flat at a voltage other than 0, its not a direct voltage?[/quote] If you're talking about a wave that's absolutely correct. The definition of DC is completely opposed to that of an AC waveform, no matter what it looks like. [quote] Maybe physics doesnt apply in your universe. [/quote] Had you looked for that authoratative link to DC voltages you might have found the physics that does apply. It doesn't look like what you're suggesting.

On a side note, my Harley Benton BA500 (500w at 4 ohms) has a specified power consumption of 170w. I thought it was a typo until Mr Foxen pointed out that other class D amps he'd been looking at had similar power demands. Anyone have an explanation of why this is? I would have sided with Dincz in saying that this is completely impossible, but now I'm totally confused. Something strange going on with the power factor perhaps?

[quote name='Grand Wazoo' timestamp='1338251182' post='1671774'] Blue... may I suggest an interim meet at someone's place, i.e. bring your own (bass & backing tracks, entertain us in rotation) bring your own drink & food, cook, wash and leave the place as tidy as you've found it? If that will suit most people then I am happy to welcome a decent number of you's, (no more than 10-15) I have a big garden, free parking on my street and very understanding (young) neighbours. [/quote]

[quote name='The Saint' timestamp='1338233303' post='1671331'] Thanks, I'm thinking of something well known that doesn't gallop along too much. I have a couple of books/CD's and I'm about to start lessons next week My tastes are mainly blues (so 12 bars are on the list!) but anything that has a repetitive bass line that I can pick up easily, bearing in mind this is the first time I've played bass. Keep 'em coming... [/quote] I recently talked someone through Just Got Back From Baby's by ZZ Top, which seems to be the sort of thing you're looking for. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/176755-help-or-advise-required/"]http://basschat.co.u...dvise-required/[/url] [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7c070W9BpyM[/media] Oh, and an edit just to agree with Lozz - timing and groove are probably the most important things you can learn on bass.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1338230516' post='1671256'] V over IR [/quote] That's Ohm's Law, and not directly related to watts as such. Also electrical power is measured in Watts, and electrical power consumption is measured in watt hours.

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1338226750' post='1671162'] But we're talking about amps ... [/quote] Well I thought it was funny...

[quote name='EdwardHimself' timestamp='1338157862' post='1670315'] It doesn't mention anywhere whether it is RMS and Behringer are pretty notorious for fiddling with the numbers in terms of power ratings. [/quote] Exactly. Someone on TB had identified the power stage on these things as 900w. Still not a bad watts/pounds ratio, but not what it says on the tin.

[quote name='acronym' timestamp='1338159059' post='1670330'] I'm new to the bass, so besides from type what strings do I need again?. [/quote] Roundwound strings are the most commonly used strings for bass, and 45-105 (or thereabouts) is a good starting point. If budget is an issue the Legacy strings are supposed to be decent - [url="http://www.stringsdirect.co.uk/strings/bass_guitar/legacy"]http://www.stringsdi...s_guitar/legacy[/url]

You could check out a couple of alternatives to the Ibanez - http://basschat.co.uk/topic/168416-another-promethean-clone/ Considerably cheaper as well.

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1337958674' post='1668086'] I've been in a rut since I was 17. Fortunately there are a lot of players in here with me. We're getting along just fine. [/quote] [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZEsBNw4KUY[/youtube] Couldn't resist.

[quote name='markstuk' timestamp='1337939022' post='1667597'] I bought a Joyo chromatic tuner as a backup for less than £30 off amazon.. It's as accurate as the tuner in my RH450, true bypass and mutes.... [/quote] These are the same as the Pitchblack apparently, which makes them even more of a bargain.

Tune your bass to fifths and play some of your regular paterns - does wonders for inspiration.

The TC polytune, Korg Pitchblack and Boss TU 3 seem to the the standard answers to this question. I'll leave others to fight it out as to which is best...