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BassBod

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Everything posted by BassBod

  1. Another method is take the screw out...put a little superglue on, then let it dry for an hour before replacing it. Often this is enough to stop it undoing over time..but without glueing it in place.
  2. That made my brain hurt. I've never had noise issues with any Sansamp stuff, and find it very reliable and musical (as long as you don't use extreme eq..and have the magic blend knob). The VT Deluxe has no Blend? Look at the Fender amp version as well. One thing that does it all for me - Alembic F2B into a good passive DI. Ok, that's two things really...but look out for one. And an SWR Interstellar Overdrive thing. That would make you happy.
  3. I used Innovation Rockabillys for ages on my Clifton - helped make a softer acoustic type sound. I'm using Spiros now, so it plays more like my acoustic bass...but the sound is more "string" and less bass. One day I'll put Evah P's on, as I think they are the best compromise string I've found.
  4. The Crazy 8 is a great little cab, that provides real low end, not just lots of mid to make it seem loud. Its an American GreenBoy design, but Tricky Audio make it here in the UK. I had one without the tweeter and didn't miss it.
  5. [quote name='Dazed' timestamp='1436816112' post='2821113'] Is there any issue with the truss rod? Will it cause the crack to open if the rod is adjusted? Cheers [/quote] Well, there is no way of knowing really. These basses have a very thin laminate fingerboard. When I noticed it I took some tension off the rod, and it went down, leaving a small crack..but has since been perfectly stable for two years or so. I've had no reason to adjust it, as it plays perfectly well. The luthier has had a good look at it, re-bonded the area where the small crack was and is confident there would be no further problems. I'm aware the crack could return if the rod was tightened up, but there is no reason to do this. The relief is set perfectly for me...virtually straight, with just enough clearance for the strings to sound. The current strings are 45-105 black plastic flats and medium tension. If these were changed for heavy duty LaBella flats and the rod was cranked tight..who knows!
  6. I could be tempted by a very nice Pbass as a trade...but it would have to be utterly wonderful, and probably maple necked...
  7. This lovely bass has now had a full check up, re-string and set up - now wearing D'Addario black plastic flats, and the small fingerboard crack is repaired and invisible. Sounds fantastic, but still needs to go Price raised to cover recent work and new strings - £875 collected (Bristol /Bath area)
  8. Don't think you can run these at 2 ohms....safe down to 4ohms, but check the manual maybe? I'm pretty sure I've got the manual somewhere if it helps, or it may still be up on the old SWR site, under vintage products. Edit - looks like it will do 2 ohms, but not in bridge mode..then its 4 ohm min.
  9. One more thing - the other side of the bridge is often flatter then the top, so do consider trying that as it may sound better.
  10. Still a great place to sell and find good stuff...but I guess it just responds to the climate. People seem to be asking more for things, and less prepared to trade or haggle....but anything old Fender or Ampeg still shifts. People are trying to get their money back wherever possible, and only want to invest again in stuff that will hold its value...along with a growing community with more "traders". Use the feedback - especially if you're had a problem.
  11. Yep, looks like the BP100 - one of the first useable pickups. I've still got one superglued to the bridge of my Clifton EUB. You have to use a preamp to get any low end out of it, can be a bit finger noisey, but still pretty good. The sound improves dramatically if the fit to the bridge face is good (not with blueback, it needs to be flat surface to flat surface) but there should be more cable going through the bridge - if the wires get tugged where they join the pickup elements they will die...like most other pickups. You can still get the metal clips from Thomann, but stationary clips also work, if memory serves me...
  12. Tempted...even though I just sold one!
  13. Look for a used Phil Jones CUB etc - great sound, but limited volume
  14. May not be Fostex...but they look very very similar..just not painted gold or silver....
  15. I'm guessing its the same as the SWR/Eden ones...you can just change the diaphragm /voice coil assembly without changing the whole unit. Look at Fostex/Foster horns on eBay or search on Thomann. One thing though to look out for though - I seem to remember that the polarity is sometimes swapped over...so if you take it out, note the terminal connections..they may be reversed.
  16. Still need a new roof....but who knows...
  17. Still looking at the Martin.....sigh....
  18. My long gone '84 Custom was signed off by a Greg.....
  19. Sorry...gone to Germany....
  20. Yes, I'd agree. It sounds great - a classic well thought out bit of pro equipment (and it doesn't weigh as much as a small car). Not too sorry it hasn't sold.
  21. I've got a Mo Clifton headless (with allen screws in the headpiece) but whenever I've tried flats, they fall apart when the retaining screw is tightened. Rounds are fine, but I've tried Thomastik flats and some others (Picato?) and they've fallen apart. I'm a bit puzzled - but its something to watch out for if you try to use single balls. Don't sell the 'berger just yet...let me make some money first.. Might take a while.
  22. No, they'll all sound horrible...just sell me the bass... Not had to use double balls strings, but I found the Status ones very floppy compared to the 760N's - partly due to gauges, but also by nature. D'Addario do a set that is somewhere between the two that might be worth a try, but my favourites were the Pyramid ones - looked old out of the packet and sounded very warm. Also very floppy, so expect to move the action up a fair bit. I guess if you have to have double balls then the choices are fairly limited
  23. Thats nice - very nice....
  24. I'm tempted to buy this just to hear the mod - is there way of making it switchable from Enhancer (as designed)/bypassed?
  25. Also get on to Schertler - I expect they will be pretty helpful in getting your amp back to work...
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