pete.young

Good luck with that, hope it goes well. LMR has an odtave guitar on it too, I'd love to have a go on one of those.

Akord Kvint is made in Luby in Chechia, not Poland. This is an area of Chechia with a long history of making orchestral stringed instruments. http://www.akordkvint.com/kontakty/ Your Stentor has laminated back and sides. I can't tell from the descriptions of Akord Kvint instruments whether they are all solid wood, but the price would indicate it. A luthier-made solid wood bass would be an upgrade. The UK agent is Forsyth's Music in Manchester, you could try talking to them about it. The only ARS MUSIC model I can find though is a 1/8th size - is this really what you want?

I did this for many years: except for the hard case. If it looked like rain I'd tie a tarpaulin over the top to keep the water out. Transported a 5-piece bluegrass band from Canterbury to London and back for a gig. So I would say a bass in a hard case tied down in a roof box will be absolutely fine. The only risk is that the amount of stuff you need to take will expand to fill the roof box, so you will end up taking a load more crap with you. Make sure the bass goes in first 🙂

That seems very reasonable. In the folk music world, Hobgobln charges 30% and Eagle Music 33% for commission sales.

I thik the scale length is the same in those two pics. In the second one, the bridge is nearer the body, but the 24th fret is much closer to the chamfer. Not sure if this is a optical illusion or if the whole lot got moved at some time in the run. The TRB 5PII was definitely 35".

How did I manage to forget Two Tribes?

Under Pressure. Although that's only one bar! Get Lucky Treasure Papa Don't Preach

The latency with g2m and b2m is pretty horrible, and you need to be very clean in technique. I found that EQ-ing all the bass out of the signal helped a bit.

I think you would be fine to run the J-Retro off the existing battery. John East would tell you for sure, but I think the drain on the battery is going to be a handful of milliamps and probably a lot less than the LEDs. Even if you have to change the battery twice as frequently as you normally do, it's still a lot easier than changing an extra one in the control cavity. I'd give it a go. If it doesn't work, you can go back and install the one in the control cavity. Assuming there's room for it of course. If you have to rout it out to make more space, definitely try the single battery first.

According to the guy who makes it, it should be right at the front of your chain before anything else. This works well for me - I found that the only thing it really didn't like was an envelope filter, but I don't use one any more.

i'm currently preparing for the annual brass band area contest. So I'd say thats one aspect of music which is clearly competitive, and the quality of the competition tends to drive up standards for the bands that participate.

Beg pardon, it is actually a twin spot rather than a big twin. The pure mini is on a guitar-bodied bouzouki with a conventional guitar bridge.

I have a Rally F5 style mandolin and it's an excellent instrument which didn't cost very much at all . I think the same factory made a number of other brands including Kentucky, which sold for twice as much as my Rally. Good find @fleabag you got a bargain there.

That is an under-bridge saddle pickup, so it will only work if your bouzouki has a guitar-style bridge stuck in the middle of the soundboard. I have a K&K sound big twin in one of my 8-string bouzozukis and a K&K Sound Pure Mini acoustic guitar pickup in the other. The 10-string has a custom magnetic sound hole pickup made by Almuse. None of these have volume controls. I normally use a pre-amp with the K&K Sound units. The magnetic doesn't need anything. All three of them have end-pin jack sockets - you can now get these with built-in pre-amps which will tone down the piezo harshness somewhat. I had a Shadow with a volume control on a banjo. In practice the volume control isn't a lot of use. You have to set it to full in order to get a decent output.

You can't cause any harm doing this, and it's a lot easier than changing the pre-amp valve for a lower gain version.

Me too Jack. I was fortunate enough to see Television in 1977 in the Free Trade Hall, Manchester. Blondie were the support band. That was a great gig.

I gather that he decided to take a break from gigging last Autumn, so is probably lying low somewhere.

I can barely manage 8 minutes these days.

He was also working with Tim Ainslie a couple of years ago. I'll ask Tim if he's heard anything.

The tricky bit is getting the holes on the bridge in the right place, since this controls the string spacing. Fortunately basschat's resident genius has figured it out (round about page 7):

Loving the idea of a hipster d-tuner. Needs a shave and loves craft beer 🙂 Chances are that a pedal is going to make a sound that isn't very much like a bass guitar. Tuning down a semitone might be OK, otherwise you might want to consider BEAD or a 5-string. That's how I got into 5-string playing.

Does that bag of tricks include a feedback destroyer like the Feedback Ferret? I've got one of these, but havent got around to trying it on double bass. I find the notch filter on my pre-amp is usually good enough at stopping it.