pete.young

That's not how it works - once you're in, you can look round the shop and try what you like. If you do have something in mind beforehand, they'll get it ready for you. Last time I bought a guitar from them, they let me try it in a separate room so other customers making noise wasn't an issue.

The way they run the appointments system isn't onerous. I'm in Ipswich , round trip is about 50 miles so even before the appointment system, I'd ring and check they were open. It's nowhere near a high-street so there are no walk-ins anyway. The value of their stock is mind-blowing - several millions of pounds and that's just the acoustic guitars.

Strange. I seem to recall the OLP version had one tone control and two volume controls, one for each coil of the humbucker. That makes slightly more sense.

Dunno if @51m0n still frequents this forum but I remember the workshop he did on compression at one of the bass bashes. He had a Focusrite unit in a rack, wired into the amp effects loop which was set to Serial in order to compress the entire signal. Sorry but I don't recall which one. Not sure which part of Essex you're in, if it's the Colchester end I have an old Phonic PCL3200 which you are welcome to borrow to see if you can make it do anything useful.

For shame Russ, get the lad a proper baby walker!

Don't dismiss the PJB Double Four out of hand. It's surprisingly loud for it's size and will give any 25W 10" a run for it's money. I've also used a PJB Briefcase with double bass and it works pretty well, but it's a heavy little beast even without the battery.

Great work, excellent result. I'd be trying ADF#A or AC#EA and play it with a slide, like a lap steel.

If you were hoping to fraudulently sell a non-existent amp, it could be very useful to have a legitimate serial number to help convince your mark. Maybe he was trying to prevent this kind of fraud.

This looks similar to my old Musima, it looks like someone has attempted a not-very-good repair using PVA, which has splintered the wood off the side of the neck and stuck it into the socket, and possibly also stuck some of the socket onto the neck sides. I took the Musima to a local luthier and he came up with 3 options. Option 1 was so expensive he didn't bother writing it down! I think this was a non-screw option, which may also have involved making a new neck. Option 2 aka bodge was to clean off the PVA, leave the splintered wood in place and attempt to glue the neck back in place hoping it would still fit reasonably tightly. And then drill the heel and fit 2 long screws through the heel and into the body block, which would provide pretty much all of the strength. Option 3 was to remove all the splintered wood from neck and socket, clean out all the damage and PVA, glue a thin veneer to the sides of the socket and maple facings to the sides of the neck, and glue it back together. Then fit screws as for option 2, which would be a backup rather than the primary source of strength in the joint. For me, none of these options made economic sense given the value of the bass. No idea why there's a 90 degree notch. It looks as though it was done at the time of the previous repair. In the bottom picture you can see an extension of the saw cuts. the only thing I can think of is that the original cap was part of the back, and it splintered off when the original failure happened.

No, it was repeated in 1982 and that was the last time.

Looks like a job for Suzie Fletcher on the Repair Shop.

I've just spotted that BBC 4 TV is showing a film called 'The Great Double Bass Race'' at 11.30 pm tonight, 7th January. And hopefully also on iPlayer, it would be about the only thing that isn't if not! This film tells the story of the first double bass festival on the Isle of Man, in 1978, and features Gary Karr amongst others. I remember watching the film when it was first shown and thinking, I've really got to go to the next one. I still haven't been.

@basso navo wht you say makes perfect sense to me. The question for you is whether a fretless will be edgy and percussive enough for the sound you want to make. If you're thinking of playing slap you're probably going to need a fretted bass. Not saying it's impossible, but there aren't many people doing it, 64 million flies argument I know.

Missed this thread originally. My one has a 3A sticker and appears to be older than the one in the for-sale thread so I guess they uprated the fuse for later designs. The fan should come on as soon as the amp powers up.

After only 3 hours? Your expectations are unreasonable. And you don't specify whether you're looking for octave up or octave down. I'd say don't buy anything without trying a Boss OC-5 first.

They look fabulous. Cost is fearsomely expensive. I came across them whilst looking for a Weissenborn, but they are more money than a hand-made solid Koa style 4.

I only have one double bass. If I had two, I couldn't fit them both in the car anyway.

The KZZS10 are more expensive but have more and better drivers, and sound great for bass guitar.

As an accordion player (Roland not Midi but the principle is the same) I'd be wondering why I was paying a double bass player that I don't need. Time to find another gig, or take up Midi accordion.