fretmeister

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1509703598' post='3400952'] Thanks. Unfortunately real life intervened yesterday and I didn't even get a chance to switch it on. Firmware 2.21 is what I downloaded from the Line 6 site. Can I apply that to whatever previous version is on the Helix (assuming that it's not already on 2.21), or are there certain upgrade steps I need to take first. The instructions on the downloads page of the Line 6 site are confusing and full of dire warnings in red. I don't want to mess anything up. All my basses have a fairly high output so thanks for the Input Pad advice. [/quote] The screen will show the current version at the bottom during the start up process. As the last update was in April I'd be surprised if your unit wasn't up to date. When you downloaded the update I presume you got the UPDATER and the EDITOR at the same time. If that is the case then you plug it in and follow the on screen instructions and let it do the work. It's only at the reboot time you have to be careful IF that particular update needs the patches to be rebuilt. Then you have to hold a few of the buttons down while you turn it off and on again. If it is of any comfort - Eric Klein (head Helix man at L6) tells me that it's really only his fellow Americans who can't follow the instructions, and that he's not really had any complaints from UK! That being said they are looking to streamline the process to reduce the number of button presses. That will come in a future firmware update. If it needs an update do it before you start making your own patches. That will make sure you haven't got to back them up.

I forgot RULE NO 1 If you are using the internal cabs or third party IRs they will ALL need high and low cuts. When the cab / IR block is highlighted the high and low cuts will be shown at the bottom of the screen. Cut the highs down to about 6-7Khz and the lows to about 75hz. That will remove any top end fizz and any boom. The most annoying thing about the presets is when you are testing them with a proper amp rather than FRFR or headphones.Some of the presents use All In One amp and cab blocks (uses less power than separates) so they sound crap into real life speakers. Need to edit to remove the All-in-one amp and cab and swap it for just the Amp and not have a cab block.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1509633557' post='3400479'] OK, the manual was on the USB stick. What do people who don't have access to a device that can read a USB stick do? Also according to the manual "USB flash drive containing the Helix Owner's Manual you’re reading right now and more" - what more? All I can see is the manual in 6 different languages. It also explains what the allen key is for, but not what the rubbery nodule does. Is it supposed to cover the bolt for adjusting the pedal stiffness? At this point I have discovered that someone (probably an ex-Terrortone guitarist) has "borrowed" my spare long jack-to-jack lead, so it will be some time while I hunt for another one before I can actually fire the thing up and get some sounds out of it. I believe that there are software and firmware updates for the Helix. Does Helix V2.21 contain everything I need or are there other things I need to download first? [/quote] 1: You won't need the manual unless you are deep diving into MIDI. Some have moaned about not having a paper one, but the L6 guys said that printing it out in about 30 languages costs a fortune and there's just no need to kill that many trees anymore. The manual is also on the website so you can print bits of it if you want to read in the bath 2: Dunno what the rubber thing is for - I've got the rack version 3: Allen key is for the expression pedal. 4: Firmware 2.21 is the up to date one. So no need to update that at all. But you might as well download the editor on your PC / Mac. The editor only works when the Helix is plugged into it but some people prefer to edit like that rather than on the unit. I don't - I do everything on the unit and only use the editor when I'm backing things up. You will need to use the editor if you decide to disappear down the rabbit hole of third party IRs 5: Get plugged in and use some headphones while you are waiting to get your cable from that scummy guitarist! 6: I don't know what pickups you have in your basses. If they are hot you might want to use the INPUT PAD. Some think the whole unit sounds better with the Pad on anyway. Highlight the INPUT BLOCK on the screen and it will show at the bottom. 7: Ask me anything you like!

He's moved over to the Line 6 Helix now. The Hartke's are just used as Power amps these days. The Helix does all the sound processing.

I still reckon the best cheap compressor out there is the Marshall ED1. I've had or still have Darkglass / Empress / Origin etc etc and I still won't ever sell the ED1. It can be a bit noisy at high compression settings, but if you are just using it to tame the filter then you won't be using it that way.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1509104696' post='3396649'] I wouldn't join a band with this attitude unless it was a professional band with a set format, a tribute or theatre gig for example, ok I wouldn't join the band even if I passed the audition if I didn't like any of the songs but I'd want to have a vote for or against new material and possibly at least be able to have my opinion listened to on existing stuff regarding a regular wedding, pub, function band. I also wouldn't hire a player of any instrument to be in a band full time that I didn't want to hear suggestions from, I think it's called give and take? [/quote] Making suggestions is not the same as changing the entire musical direction of the band.

Anyone got one yet?

New boy joins an existing outfit = he has to learn the rules. It's not his band. Sounds like he needs a bit of re-education in general.

The string movement over the middle is far greater than over the bridge. That's why the bridge pickup is often a higher output to try and compensate. But it can't completely compensate simply because of the physics of the moving string. So you have to adjust it the old fashioned way... Lower the front pickup by a mil or 2. That will do it.

Lars will never do it. Because he's a twonk.

Justice is a stunning album. It's just got a terrible mix. There are versions on youtube with fixed bass. Some better than others, but all an improvement. As for the best musician in Metallica - I think that does Hetfield a disservice. He is a machine. I'm a bit torn about set lists. On one hand I want to hear the classics. But on the other I don't want a simple greatest hits show either. I like Iron Maiden's approach - play the new album with some added favourites. They've done that forever and built the set (and Eddie) around the latest album. It's like seeing a sequel to the last show rather than just a re-release. I often prefer live versions to studio anyway. Even the St Anger stuff is great live, and without the sh*tty recorded snare sound.

I was supposed to go to the same night as the OP, but work got in the way. Between the OP post and the photos my brother took it seems I missed a belting show

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1509004024' post='3395869'] Are you certain there are no bass players out there who never stop practising their slap chops through every minor break in the action? Thankfully we don't get to meet them too often. [/quote] You know the rule - if you haven't met one - it's you!

Either amp head into fx return and regular bass cab, or straight into a Yamaha DXR10 FRFR powered cab.

Yes. I run a pair of them. Very happy indeed. Lovely and light and sound great.

Can't beat the little Roland Bass Cubes. Still got my 10 year old one even though I hardly use it. Can't bring myself to move it on - it sounds brilliant. Or - if you only want headphones and you have a Smart Phone, then something like the Line 6 Sonic Port and the free version of Amplitube. It will access music in your library and let you plan along.

Yngwie doing Gimme Gimme https://youtu.be/zliRIq693iQ Just for ideas!

The software between the LT, Full fat and rack is identical. It's only the external connections that is really different. Fewer fx loops on the LT If you create great patches on the borrowed one you can get your mate to upload them to the L6 site or email them to you so you don't have to recreate them when you get yours.

[quote name='ern500evo' timestamp='1508264252' post='3391007'] Thanks, that's awesome info! I'm meeting up with an old guitarist friend of mine who's got the Helix original, be good to sit down and have a good play about with it without having to go to a shop. I can see my wallet taking a hiding in the not too distant future! My only concern is having something that expensive sat on the floor at pub gigs, but for financial reasons, the LT is a more attractive proposition than the rack unit. What I've down in the past at really tight gigs, is place the pedal board behind me, in front of my amp, which is fine as I don't tend to switch fx mid song anyway, I'm doing 99% covers now so it's more likely to be set a patch for a song and leave it. [/quote] The guy that mods the biggest facebook group makes protectors for them. Little stick on things to go over the screens and scribble strips. If you are gigging in places where spillage is likely then it might be worth getting a set https://www.facebook.com/groups/line6helixusergroup/ Join the group and send a message to Chad Boston.

[quote name='ern500evo' timestamp='1508245271' post='3390789'] Have any of you guys seen the Erik Arko vid where he's using a Yamaha Attitude LTD3? I'm starting to take more interest in the Helix LT, and in the vid he uses separate signal paths for each pickup/output of the bass, but he also send them to separate outputs. I have an Att Ltd 2 and was wondering, is it possible to use 2 inputs and have a seperate signal path per pickup/output, but only use one output on the Helix, so I can run into one amp? The plan would be to use the fx return on my GK MB Fusion, meaning that in case of emergency I've still got an actual amp with me on gigs. [/quote] Yes. Dead easy. Each of the chains can be separated or joined together for a mono output. In fact if you really want - you can have 1/4 inch to a real amp, and another going to a 2nd amp without cab sims. Then the XLRs with Cab Sims going to the PA split left and right or clean and dirty.... and then have the USB going to a PC for recording etc etc. Easy to do as well. Set each input path up for a different input so they behave like separate amps. Then at the end of each path set which output you want to route it to. Under 20 seconds to set up that routing. Probably under 10 seconds when you've had it for a week!

I asked Doug on fb about the tone control on the B3K - apparently it's exactly like the version within the M900 amp. That pleases me hugely - I think the M900 version is the best of all.

https://www.darkglass.com/creations/microtubes-b3k-v2/ https://www.darkglass.com/creations/microtubes-b7k-v2/ Now with a mid boost....

Sweet Child of Mine + Not actually Guns & Roses = wrong band.

Wait to you see the Bas Vegas sign! IIRC there's a pretty good chinese restaurant about 15 mins walk from the train station.

The AO is fantastic as a clean preamp too - with the drive at nil. Super impressed with that ability on it. I haven't yet tried that direct into my powered FRFR but I'm very curious to give it a go. I'll try that at the weekend.