Matt P

While on my quest for a backup 5 string I tried one of the squier 5 string precisions (the one with 2 jazz pickups) and it's got a very wide neck, I think my comment at the time was that it was like an aircraft carrier, if someone wanted a narrow spaced 6 string then it would be a good candidate for a cheap conversion. You should be able to pick one up fairly cheaply second hand I think the one I tried was only about 120 quid. The string spacing was fairly wide at the nut from what I can remember, and it was 19ish at the bridge, the neck was wide enough that you could go very wide at the nut without the strings falling off the edge of the fretboard.

when i was considering a ricky i was told that the larger Hiscox case would fit, they publish lots of useful dimensions as well so should be easy to work out if it'll fit. https://www.hiscoxcases.com/product/ebp-large-bass-guitar-case/ Matt

50 quid is about the going rate for a used Hiscox Liteflite (thats certainly what i paid for the last one i bought used)

Done

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1498242614' post='3323409'] Yes - I think you're right. I went to the local music shop today and talked through with the owner. Although he didn't have any, we came to much the same conclusion. Stunning, by the way, how many respected case suppliers don't put the internal dimensions of their cases on their web sites! [/quote] I'm not sure if they'll have anything to fit this but Hiscox quote internal dimensions for their cases, they have been known to do custom fits as well, my friend had a couple of cases customised to fit his schecter tempest guitars. http://www.hiscoxcases.com/electric-guitar-cases.htm Matt (edited with Linky)

[quote name='fleabag' timestamp='1497269825' post='3316894'] template, Do the insides of the pickup rout template need polishing ? Sounds very finicky for just a template, Matt [/quote] not for a template, i was just adding that as additional info in case someone else searches for perspex cutting info, personally i'd go as far as the fine file as i'm never that accurate with cutting so usually get the last little bit with a file to give an accurate neat edge. Matt

another option (that i use for smaller cuts) is a manual coping saw, it takes time but less likely to get melting or splintering, masking tape both sides is always a good idea, leave the protective plastic on as well. for finishing the edges was taught to start with a fine file, then go through the grades of wet+dry paper (used wet) up to about 1500 grit, then brasso for a final polish, you can get it super smooth and transparent this way. we made keyrings using this method at school, then i used the same method for the perspex top of a hifi stand i made as my GCSE project (far too long ago!) Matt

What about our very own AndyJr1515 ? it might be a few months before he has the time to work on it, but judging by the quality of his past work i'd expect this to be a fairly simple job for him and the result should be awesome, he's based in Derby i think. http://basschat.co.uk/user/16482-andyjr1515/ http://www.ajrguitarmods.co.uk/ Matt

if you're happy to go secondhand then the markbass F1/F500 might be worth a look, i'm running an F1 with Barefaced Midget cabs and it's a great pairing that has pretty much cured my amp GAS. the F1/F500 is bigger than the nano 300 but thinner and lighter than the littlemark i think i paid 250 quid for the F1 but it might have been 300. they pop up for sale fairly regularly at sensible prices. Matt

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1496076318' post='3308586'] Confirmation that Andy is either a genius or working to his own exacting standards. [/quote] i'd go a little further than that, Andy is a genius with very exacting standards. Andy, feel free not to say but what is/was your profession? your working methods hint at something technical with complex methodologies. Matt

i thought that my Letts singlecut had a groove on the bass side but I just had a look and it's flat at neck depth all the way to 24th fret low B then curves out to full body depth, it's not bothered me as it's got a really flat squarish profile (that I love) i'm really loving this build, not really to my taste but the little design touches and the engineering that is going into it are exceptional. Matt

it sounds like you've got this all sorted but have you considered swapping the jack socket on the second cab with a speakon? the jack sockets aren't really designed for the high currents of bass amps. Matt

how about a USB recording interface? something like a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 Great for recording that groove you just came up with or for recording ideas as you have them. failing that then a few sets of your favorite strings is a good call. i've seen some of these credit options, and as soon as i've decided exactly what i want i'll be doing the same, PMT offer 0% over 9 months which is really rather good, it works out as 10 payments including the deposit, i might not be able to find say 300 quid right now but 30 a month for 10 months is far easier to come up with. Matt

you might also like the Fender 347 shape ones too, they look very similar to the Gibson ones you posted above http://shop.fender.com/en-GB/accessoriespicks/347-shape-classic-celluloid-picks---12-count/0980347700.html personally I love the Fender 451, it's the same shape as a standard plectrum but slightly smaller, I bought about 40 last time and still have a fair few left in my stash. http://shop.fender.com/en-GB/accessoriespicks/451-shape-classic-celluloid-picks---12-count/0980451700.html#start=1 I linked to the fender page as it has good clear photos, Matt

personally i've gone the other way, i got rid of my rectangular cases and bought Hiscox ones, if it's the price that is the issue then they come up secondhand all the time, i've usually paid about 50 quid for them, (currently have about 8 for various guitars and basses) i have found that the Hiscox ones usually fit better than the rectangular ones unless you add lots of padding to stop the bass from sliding around. Matt

I think it depends which 1x12 or 1x10 cab you are using, the modern high efficiency cabs are nothing like the cabs of 10 years ago, i run barefaced midgets (2nd gen) and a single one really can hold it's own against a very noisy drummer and a guitarist with no concept of turning down, when i was looking at cabs a local BC'er (thanks Jack) invited me to one of his band practices to try out his midget/compact setup, it was a smallish room drums, bass and 2 marshall half stacks, i commented afterwards how well the cab paring cut through the sound and was informed that only the midget was plugged in! i've also has the chance to A/B the barefaced against TKS cabs and they're very similar in volume. Markbass/Vanderkly/berg/.Aguilar all offer astonishing small cabs compared to what was around 10 years ago. matt

i had one of the RBX yamaha basses as my second bass (and my first 5 string) Yamaha have a reputation for build quality and great value, i'd be tempted to see if they'll do a deal on the yamaha (gig bag/strings/lead) i think for the same amount of outlay i'd go for a secondhand bass over any new one, you get so much more for your money. i kept my Yamaha for years, it was only ousted when i bought a custom 5 string, it's still getting regular use by a friend who took it on when i didn't have room to keep it. i know it has been mentioned before but the basschat marketplace is a fantastic place to get bargains on secondhand gear, If you let us know where in the country you are (approximately) then people might also be able to suggest good local shops with decent stock of used basses, someone might even offer to accompany you to some shops to look over any potential purchases (if you're in the north east then i'd be happy to look over any basses you've got your eye on.) Matt

Neutrik make a right angle 3.5mm plug that might work, it's got a cable clamp designed for the figure 8 flat cable and clamps quite tightly, it should be able to clamp a fairly flat cable with no problems, the main issue is going to be soldering the conductors inside, i've repaired a few sets of decent headphones and it's like soldering hair, i've actually stopped offering to fix them for friends as it's such a pain. these are the plugs, they're usually about a fiver each (watch out for fakes on ebay) http://www.neutrik.co.uk/en-uk/plugs-jacks/35-mm-right-angle-stereo-plug/ntp3rc Matt

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1492343400' post='3279513'] You'd probably best not look into aircraft construction next time you fly if you dislike the idea of Cleco style fixings. That 'cup' you prefer is a chocolate fire guard once the nut comes off the strap! [/quote] I've never had a nut come off in 20 years of using them (only 5 years of using threadlock) the rotational movement is the cup around the button, the nut is there to lock the strap against the body of the lock (with a washer as per good design practice), there ate 3 little pins on the body of the lock to stop rotation. i believe that Cleco fasteners are for temporarily holding sheet material in position prior to fastening with rivets (that's certainly the only time i've seen them used.) Matt

[quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1492035835' post='3277465'] That was my impression too... and then I looked at their response graphs and it confirmed it for me. [/quote] where did you find response graphs? i've just had a look at their website and can't find any response graphs or any kind of data to back up the claims. they look pretty expensive for what you get, especially as they obviously don't expect the foam part to last (or they wouldn't be selling them in sets of 3 pairs!) i've tried quite a few of the wallet friendly earplugs, usually go for the Alpine musicsafe pro unless it's an acoustic session when i go for the Doc's (i've got a pair of ER20's and some Lin-ear pr20 as well.) i'm going for custom moulded as soon as i have enough pennies Matt

i'm a schaller fanboy, you do need to enlarge the hole in the strap to get a nice flat fit, i use a dab of threadlock on the threads to keep the nut in place, i didn't used to bother and never had an issue with any of my straps but i keep a bottle of threadlock on my bench now so use it as a belt and braces insurance. i had a good look at the designs of the different straplock designs before i bought them and the schaller design makes more sense in my head, i never trusted the dunlop design with the internal locking method, all of my engineering schooling gives me no confidence in the dunlop design, the idea of the wweight and the locking device on the pin inside of the button seems wrong, a bit of wear and i'd be afraid of it letting go mid-gig whilst the schaller design has the "cup" of the straplock to take the weight and the pin as a locking device. Matt

[quote name='coffee_king' timestamp='1492090083' post='3277864'] Hi Matt P Great ideas (As used by my drummers) but just too expensive for my budget (And what the fan originally cost me) I'm afraid Cheers though [/quote] it's worth looking regularly on ebay though, i've picked up drum hardcases very cheaply over the years, certainly for less than the cost of your fan (the case will hold it's value very well too if you find you don't need it at some point) another option is a suitcase, somewhere like tk maxx might have something suitable (you would probably get a bit of extra space for other stuff as well)

i know that you were looking for some kind of padded bag/ case but some of the hard bass drum cases might work as they usually aren't completely round, you might need to go up a size or two and then add some internal padding, they come up used on ebay fairly regularly though especially if they're local collection only. this kind of thing - http://www.steveweissmusic.com/product/yamaha-marching-bass-drum-case/marching-drum-cases or something like this - http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/nomad-multifit-fiber-bass-drum-case or - https://www.andertons.co.uk/p/HN20B/drum-cases/hardcase-20-bass-drum-case

[quote name='leroydiamond' timestamp='1491396569' post='3272687'] Many thanks Matt. That stand might just do the trick. I have sent them an email for information about where to purchase a quick google and found them on Thomann (where else). I will put in an order and report back. [/quote] Happy to help, i've used K+M stands before and always thought they were decent quality (not the cheapest but i'd rather buy once and not have to worry about stands failing at a gig)

it's not as small as the one you posted but K+m make multi-section stands that fold smaller than the average stands, this stand - https://produkte.k-m.de/en/Mic-stands/Floor-stands/199-Microphone-stand-black with this boom - https://produkte.k-m.de/en/Mic-stands/Booms/21140-Boom-arm-black would fold down pretty small. the problem is most likely to be that every joint that is added to a stand is another point that can cause wobbles. Matt