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Matt P

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Everything posted by Matt P

  1. I have the roqsolid covers for my gen2 midgets, with the strap and the pocket for the grille protection (I used some very rigid foam board) I bought the covers when I got the cabs which were some of the last made before the switch to gen3. Mine have held up great, just minor fraying in the edging at the corners.
  2. I think it's a rg120-210, aka a commander 120, I believe that Kurt Cobain used the head version about the time of bleach.
  3. there was another amp the same listed on Reverb, it has the speakers wired in series as well, It's not common but I think this one is supposed to be series. Reverb I suggested the 1.5v battery as it's a little kinder on the speaker coil and i've always found it to be enough for testing, it's not too hard to do especially if you have a short length of wire like the jumper wire on this amp.
  4. I suspect that this is the wiring that you need. The black wire on the lower left hand connection should be moved to the top right speaker connector
  5. if the other speaker is working then i suspect that you don't need any more wires, have a good look for the impedance markings, i suspect they are 4Ohm speakers designed to be in series, In that case all the wires you need are there already, I'll scribble out a diagram to show the wiring and post it below. matt
  6. from the wires visible i'd guess they were in series and either one has been disconnected at an attempt to cut the volume, or one has failed (which would cut all sound when they were in series) and the wiring changed so that it gives some output. but as @BigRedXhas already said it will be much clearer if you can find the impedence value marked on the speaker (clear photos of any writing or markings should help.) if you have access to a multimeter then it's possible to test the speaker, or it's also possible to test with a small battery (AA or AAA) Matt
  7. I'm looking for the same thing that @Merton asked for in the initial talks, a small footprint simple amp with a 3 band eq, if it can have a di then that's great but for me the simpler the amp the better. @Stonehamknows what he is doing so I'm very happy to leave the finer points to his expertise. Matt
  8. I used to have an Orange tiny terror (the 15w all valve guitar one) and it had 3 speaker jacks on the back, a 16 ohm, and a pair for 8ohm, so if you had a single 16ohm cab you connected to the 16 ohm socket, for a pair of 16's then you plugged them both into the 8ohm sockets, and for a single 8 ohm it went into one of the 8 ohm sockets. could a similar thing be done here? a single 8ohm labeled one (for a single 8ohm cab) and then a pair labeled as min 4 ohm for either a pair of 8ohm cabs or a single 4ohm, this would save a tiny bit of space and still cover the required options, if someone had 16ohm cabs then they'd need to daisy-chain them or use a special cable, I don't think there are many 16ohm options when it comes to bass-specific cabs (feel free to make me look silly by listing all the 16ohm cabs available) Using the combo speakon/jack sockets would be my preference (even though all my cables are speakon)
  9. same here, would a footswitch for drive be possible? the 3 band cut/bost eq is perfect for me, DI is a very useful feature too.
  10. are any of these amps NOT going to be used with barefaced cabs? 😁 Matt
  11. i've just noticed the 40cm wide aim, this is perfect for me as i'm using Barefaced Midgets which are 38cm wide, 1cm overhang on each side is perfectly acceptable to me. from memory the Handbox R400 was a good fit on my cabs at 375mm the 100W valve one is a bit wider at 460mm, so more overhang than i'd like. Matt
  12. Excellent! big thumbs up for a more original look (as long as it's not too wide) as a Tyneside bassist myself i'm hoping i'll be able to give the prototype a good run (need to get some gigs booked i guess!)
  13. i'd want it to be able to get to gig volume clean also, a setup more like a guitar amp with gain and master volume would suit me, set the gain to determine how dirty it was, then the master for the overall level. Matt
  14. I've Briefly mentioned this to Martin in the past (he has serviced a fem amps for me over the years) If it can sit nicely on my Barefaced Midgets then i'm interested, 100W would be plenty for me and a nice simple layout like the YI200 is perfect. I'm guessing the all-metal casing will be something like a Terror bass head? Matt
  15. these might be a bit cheaper? (no idea about postage) another option is to find a bearing supplier locally and phone them, i'd expect that they would be a couple of quid each and they would sell you them through the trade counter as a cash sale. just ask for 18mm outside diameter and 16mm inside diameter and make sure the length is right, many of the cheaper options are easily trimmed to length with a stanley knife (nylon or polyamide) I would avoid Oilite beatrings as they are designed to leach oil out slowly which might damge the finish (possible staining of the wood under the finish) Matt
  16. i'm alternating between acoustic and bass at the moment (never both on the same Sunday though) for my acoustic i'm using a T-Rex Soulmate Acoustic (a fantastic bit of Kit) as an interface and for the Bass i'm using a micro pedalboard with Tuner, EQ, Compressor, Bass Soul food and a chorus with a radial DI at the end of the chain. I'm thinking of slightly simplifying the bass input with a rack preamp as there is a small rack case just next to my usual stage position and occasionally there will be a different bassist on a sunday and they don't have any pedals/preamps. we went to IEM's during lockdown so the lovely Trace head and mismatched cabs that were in use before have gone (the trace is now mine) when there was a bass rig it was easy for anyone to just plug in and play, i'm thinking that a simple preamp that looks like a regualr amp would make it equally easy for other bassists to plug in (as well as giving me the chance to slim down my bass pedalboard even further) What preamps/interfaces are people using for their bass? Matt
  17. Martin at stoneham has been my go to amp tech for a while now, I have suggested a 100w bass head to him and he seemed to suggest that it would be possible, if it was narrow enough not to hang over the edges of my cabs I'd possibly be interested as well.
  18. I have a near identical (but home-made) cable and 9v battereis in my gig case too, the Mooer Di is more of a back-up on my pedalboard as 99% of the time i'm running the link output into an amp and would use the Di on that if i was going to the PA (a very rare occurrence as we play pubs etc and our PA is vocal only) the Mooer Di has been used for recording though and did a great job. I actually have a couple of Passive Radial Di boxes (a stagebug and a Pro) that get more use but there wasn't quite room on my board for them so the Mooer is there instead, i've had the Mooer the longest and only bought the Radials in the last couple of years as they came up used at sensible prices Matt
  19. I have this Mooer Di on my bass pedalboard, It is indeed a fine unit with a very usable sound, my only minor gripe is that it needs a 9v power supply as it can neither take a battery (understandable owing to it's size) nor run from Phantom power (as far as i can remember) Matt
  20. Do you know what the item number was? I've had a search and couldn't see them (might have been looking in the wrong place or using the wrong search terms) Matt Edit, I think I might have found it, This one?
  21. ohh, that's nice, which one is it? might have to add one to my next order.
  22. Bought a Focusrite trakmaster from Pete, it was a perfect transaction in every respect. deal with confidence people Thanks Matt
  23. i've just measured my gen2 Midgets and they are 48cm tall, i think the metricdimensions are correct and the imperial conversions are wrong. Matt
  24. I have a pair of the 2nd gen midgets at home (some of the last before they were replaced by the 3rd gen, i can measure them up when i get home from work. Matt
  25. According to this post over on talkbass there is a circuit board inside the FS4 that handles some of the switching logic, normally each footswitch needs 2 connections to activate the switch so the most that a 1/4" jack can handle is 2 footswitches (one common and 2 switched connections on a stereo plug) for 4 button footswitches it either needs a multi-pin connection or some kind of switching circuit in the pedal, Ashdown seem to have taken the latter approach, as the cable is only 2 pole. Unfortunately for your wallet the only option is to buy the Ashdown FS4. Matt
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