Matt P

all my speaker cables are 4mm sq, but only because that was what OBBM offered as standard for bass, I usually make my own instrument cables (still working my way through a reel of Klotz AC110) but when it came to speaker cables i went with OBBM as he had the speaker cable in stock and it wasn't as easy to get in the shorter lengths i needed, also when it comes to the jack plugs (required for my Trace GP11) I didn't fancy soldering those big Neutrik plugs on with my little 25w iron. Matt

oh well, no worries. Matt

I know I'm late to the party but os this available? Happy to pay postage /Guinness fees. Matt

i've got a 1971/1970 Marshall Artiste 2x12 50w sitting in the cupboard waiting for the day i'm called on to play guitar again (or when i have the spare cash to get it properly re-commissioned) might have to dig it out and see if i can find out who put it together! Matt

the JMP on the front plate would point to 68 or 69 according to the Reverb page, if the feet are small and grey then 68, the feet were changed to bigger black ones in 69. of course all this is only approximate! Matt

If i remember rightly somewhere in this thread Martin said that he would be using a traditional transformer for the output and a toroidal for the mains as a balance between weight and cost, as a slight bonus a pair of KT88's is slightly cheaper than 4 6L6's (and i'm guessing easier to package in the smaller space) Matt

thanks, i originally used case logic velcro ties but no matter how careful i was they went missing, a friend discovered the velcro wrap in B&q so that solved the issue (they might still sell it but i buy in bulk now) Matt

apologies for not getting this sooner, this is how i have my cable ties, the studs are jeans studs from eBay (prym branded) they come with a tool that you hit with a hammer to set them, i swapped to a pliers type tool as it's quieter for fitting them after my son's bedtime. the hole punch is a regular leather type one and i just use the smallest option. wrap the end of the tie round, punch a hole through the 2 parts then fit the stud, i usually don't cut it off the roll till i've fitted it, then i can wrap the tie round and cut to the exact length

I bought a Radial Pro for my church board and was very happy with it, swapped it out for an SB-2 for space reasons and couldn't tell the difference, the pro is kept as a backup. I have opened up both of them and the quality inside was impressive, some of that weight is the internal components but the solid steel casing is not light on it's own, i think bulletproof might be an exaggeration but it's not far off. Matt

exciting news! looking forward to hearing (and hopefuly testing out) the prototype. Matt

i've tried those cheap type before, they were usually made of 2 layers stuck together, after a while the ones i had the adhesive went soft and they spread stickyness all over the cables. the Velcro branded stuff i use is made in a single part so no glue to get everywhere. I use this stuff, I have a 5m roll of 30mm wide for bigger jobs and a 25m roll of the 10mm wide one which is perfect for most cables, i like that it is easily cut to exactly the length required. Velcro tie i'll take some photos of my usual configuration tonight.

they're usually just called velcro cable ties (sometimes hook and loop ties as velcro is a trademark)., I make my own using double sided velcro tape which i fix on with a jeans rivet, I can take some pics when i get home if you want. Matt

The ghs precision flats are pretty good, I've been very happy with mine, a an reference I have chromes on one 34" scale bass and ernie ball group flats on another and like them all

i'm very much in the buying the right scale for the bass camp, I usually fit flatwounds to my basses so that's what i've bought, GHS Precisions on my 4 string and La Bela on the 5 string. I do want to try rounds on the 5 string so i had Newtone make me a set, Stainless 5 string set was under 40 quid. Matt

I had an Ashdown 4x8 that had been converted to the neo speakers (Ashdown ones) that was about 20kg and was only just about loud enough with a tame drummer, swapped to the Barefaced Midgets and i can drown out almost any drummer with only one cab (and it's 9kg or so) Matt

3 amp heads and 2 cabs here, Orange terror Bass mk1, Markbass F1 and a Trace Elliot gp11 AH250, cabs are a pair of Barefaced gen 2 midgets. at the moment we don;t have any gigs but the Orange is the one that comes to practices (with a single cab) every so often the trace comes out when i'm feeling strong, any of the heads with both cabs would work for a gig. when the Stoneham 100w head is available that will most likely replace the Orange, i'll also sell the Markbass and get one of the 200w tiny heads as a backup, the trace isn't going anywhere at the moment. Matt

there is a Yamaha France site, i would start by emailing the contact/support email and ask there first, if they can't help direct they should be able to point you to a company that can. https://fr.yamaha.com/fr/products/musical_instruments/guitars_basses/ having said that due to the age of the bass i'd be surprised if they can supply a direct replacement part, they might be able to sell you a new set of saddles with the pickups built in though, failing that you might need to buy a different aftermarket set of saddles and swap them out. I couldn't find a clear photo of the bridge online, if you could post one here then maybe someone might recognise it and be able to offer some more information. Matt

which bass is this? depending on the design then someone should be able to suggest a replacement. if you can post a picture or two that would help a great deal. Matt

for just getting general grubbiness off i use fragrance free baby wipes, if there's some stickyness i usually just reach for the Isopropyl Alcohol. Matt

very true! I'd forgotten that the 8" cab will be quite front heavy, my other thought was to make a simple folding stand with a v-shaped cutout to hold the amp, 3 bits of wood and a couple of hinges would probably do it, I might just have to experiment when the box is built. Matt

hmm I quite like that! it would need to be slightly modified to work with the closed back design of this cab though, i'm thining a circular socket drilled at 45 degrees in the middle at the upper back and a rod/foot that slots into that, thereby keeping the back flush. there would need to be a block inside to support it but that would be easy enough to calculate and account for. Matt Edit - something like this

the lighter the better for me so i'd go for 12mm ply. I don't mind adding in some internal struts or braces to make it work better. Matt EDIT - I've just re-read @Bill Fitzmaurice post above about braced 12mm behaving like 24mm, does this scale? could simply braced 9mm ply be used for an ultra lightweight cab?