Matt P

certainly, I will agt it measured and make some rough sketches for you. I should have some time one evening this week. do you need to see any of the internal structure of the case? Matt EDIT - due to Illness of our lead singer/guitarist there was no band practice lat night, the next one is 2 weeks away!

welcome, i don't have much to add except that there is a dedicated sub forum for left handed bass sales on here, and if you're within collection distance there is a bargain Ibanez SR300 for sale in Winchester (no connection to the seller myself) Here My advice would be to get a decent secondhand bass (like the Ibanez) and a small practice combo for a total outlay of half your budget, then get some lessons and some practice, then the rest of the money is there if you find yourself in a band and need an amp suitable for gigging. Matt

the enclosure on my head seems to be 18mm plywood so 1/2" should give a nice weight reduction from that, i have peeked inside and the size of all the components is considerable! this head was originally the "house" amp at my church, we went over to IEM's a couple of years ago (much to my dismay) and as i had paid for all the servicing etc for the amp over the last 15 or so years it was given to me. I'm fairly well acquainted with the sound, the only reason it doesn't get much use is because i have a bad back and the F1 is considerably easier to move around! Matt

as i have now dug the Trace head out of it's hiding place i've decided that it's getting a run out on Monday at band practice, i usually use a Markbass F1 with a Barefaced Midget but this week i'll hook the Trace up to the 6x10 Ampeg cab in the practice room instead, i've never used it with this band so it will be interesting to see the reaction it gets from the band If you are having a new enclosure made i'd really suggest trying to keep it's weight down, this one in it's original housing with the UV etc weighs in at 20.7kg/ 45lb 10oz. Matt

hello, I've just come across this, I have an identical Trace GP11 AH250 head sitting here, happy to help with measurements/ photo's etc to get your amp back into usable condition. Just let me know what information you need. they are a bit of a beast of an amp, the 250W rating is nothing like how they respond on stage, i don't think i've had mine above 2.5 on the master volume (and that was wearing earplugs.) Matt

i've voted 4m as that's the length i use most often it seems the best compromise for me between enough length to let me move about and not so much that i trip over it all the time. Matt

i've not done the booking but i have travelled with a guitar in it's own seat, it was a band trip to germany (i think on Ryan Air?) each instrument had a seat and there were belt extenders for each, one of the instruments was assigned to me and the rule was that the instrument went in the window seat next to the passenger that was booked with it. as an aside, for that trip the guitarist had a small marshall combo that was small enough to be hand luggage, he just tucked his book in the back of the open backed amp. Matt

it's not quite clear from the photo but it looks like the outer nut/strap pin section isn't screwed all the way in, this would stop the jack plug from properly engaging and holding in place (as you describe) it might be worth adjusting it so that the middle threaded section is flush with the button section and see if this fixes the issue. if that doesn't sort it then i'd sugest removing the whole socket and checking there isn't a peamp or similar built into it befoere you order any parts (some systems have a buffer or preamp circuit built into the jack socket) Matt

I'm glad someone has bought that Antoria as i've been eying it up since it was first advertised! (i don't have space for any more basses at the moment) If you want to see an example of @Andyjr1515's handywork then you would be welcome to have a noodle on the 5 string shortscale that he built me Build Thread, drop me a PM if you have any questions Matt

I haven't tried them yet but i've bought a selection of the Harley benton guitar strings (including some flats for my semi acoustic). I'm looking forward to trying them out. matt

I have a Polytune on my main pedalboard (one of the first gen ones) and a polytune mini on my tiny second board, i've had brief experience of the TU-2 and didn't get on with it for some reason. the polytune wins for me as i can check all the strings very quickly with one strum (excellent for a quick check between songs) Matt

hello, as well as a new screw you will also need the little washers that go between the button (the twisty thing) and the main body of the tuner. your profile says you are in the north east of england, if you are near to Newcastle (west end not far from the west road and the A1) then i might have a sutable screw in my stash somewhere, failing that it might be posible to buy another tuner and then use one for parts to get a working one (a complete set of replacement tuners might also be an option and needent be that expensive) Matt

Anyone who tries this with my tagged location will only find a great pint of beer or a delicious curry! (or an excellent Italian meal if they wander down the road a bit.

I'm one of the numpties that managed to put myself in twice (Matt P about number 1040 ish) i picked a location that was near enough (the right city) but the exact location is a few miles from my actual lair. Matt

i've played around a little with alternate tunings on banjo and Mandolin, i found the "upside down" tuning of the mandolin a bit of a pain after years of playing guitar, i briefly tried tuning in fourths like a guitar but didn't have the money to try the custom string gauges that would have given proper tension (i was a poor student at the time) so the mandolin got sold. My Banjo is a 5 string so the tuning is far more guitar like and i found this easier. For a tenor i think i'd go for the Chicago tuning, as you already have a high E i would use one of the online string tension calculators to work back to determine the most ideal gauges for the other strings then buy the 3 to convert the current set (assuming the current strings are fresh) I've found that the tensions for many sets are all over the place, especially the g on many acoustic instruments tuned in 4ths, it's often way higher tension than the other strings. Individual loop end strings are easy enough to get, as an alternative you could contact Newtone and have a custom set made to suit whatever tuning you want (not actually that expensive) Matt

I have the roqsolid covers for my gen2 midgets, with the strap and the pocket for the grille protection (I used some very rigid foam board) I bought the covers when I got the cabs which were some of the last made before the switch to gen3. Mine have held up great, just minor fraying in the edging at the corners.

I think it's a rg120-210, aka a commander 120, I believe that Kurt Cobain used the head version about the time of bleach.

there was another amp the same listed on Reverb, it has the speakers wired in series as well, It's not common but I think this one is supposed to be series. Reverb I suggested the 1.5v battery as it's a little kinder on the speaker coil and i've always found it to be enough for testing, it's not too hard to do especially if you have a short length of wire like the jumper wire on this amp.

I suspect that this is the wiring that you need. The black wire on the lower left hand connection should be moved to the top right speaker connector

if the other speaker is working then i suspect that you don't need any more wires, have a good look for the impedance markings, i suspect they are 4Ohm speakers designed to be in series, In that case all the wires you need are there already, I'll scribble out a diagram to show the wiring and post it below. matt

from the wires visible i'd guess they were in series and either one has been disconnected at an attempt to cut the volume, or one has failed (which would cut all sound when they were in series) and the wiring changed so that it gives some output. but as @BigRedXhas already said it will be much clearer if you can find the impedence value marked on the speaker (clear photos of any writing or markings should help.) if you have access to a multimeter then it's possible to test the speaker, or it's also possible to test with a small battery (AA or AAA) Matt

I'm looking for the same thing that @Merton asked for in the initial talks, a small footprint simple amp with a 3 band eq, if it can have a di then that's great but for me the simpler the amp the better. @Stonehamknows what he is doing so I'm very happy to leave the finer points to his expertise. Matt

I used to have an Orange tiny terror (the 15w all valve guitar one) and it had 3 speaker jacks on the back, a 16 ohm, and a pair for 8ohm, so if you had a single 16ohm cab you connected to the 16 ohm socket, for a pair of 16's then you plugged them both into the 8ohm sockets, and for a single 8 ohm it went into one of the 8 ohm sockets. could a similar thing be done here? a single 8ohm labeled one (for a single 8ohm cab) and then a pair labeled as min 4 ohm for either a pair of 8ohm cabs or a single 4ohm, this would save a tiny bit of space and still cover the required options, if someone had 16ohm cabs then they'd need to daisy-chain them or use a special cable, I don't think there are many 16ohm options when it comes to bass-specific cabs (feel free to make me look silly by listing all the 16ohm cabs available) Using the combo speakon/jack sockets would be my preference (even though all my cables are speakon)

same here, would a footswitch for drive be possible? the 3 band cut/bost eq is perfect for me, DI is a very useful feature too.

are any of these amps NOT going to be used with barefaced cabs? 😁 Matt