Matt P

If you are on a really tight budget then I'd recommend the yamaha rbx765a or the 770, 19mm spacing and cheap as chips, I had one that cost me 120quid, a great sounding bass too, I even got compliments from a recording engineer with my one. The squire vm p5 is great too, about 18mm spacing and I only paid 120 for mine as well. Matt

Beyer Dynamic dt100 for me, tried a few others (sennheiser hd497 and hd201, akg k44) I've got a couple of different cables for the dt100 with small and big plugs and different leads, they're not the most flattering sound but I find that they're great for picking the bass part in a track and as they show up all the string noise etc I have found that my playing has got better as I'm trying to keep the extraneous noise to a minimum. Matt

Stoneham are pretty good with trace elliot, that's what I'd consider an old school solid state amp, he serviced my trace gp11 a while ago. I'd expect that he'll be able to sort it. Matt

What amp is it? There is a guy on old George yard who used to work for Marshall, I think he might be more at home with more traditional amps, there is also a guy called Wilf in Whitley bay who's very good, if you are on Facebook then he's one of the admin guys on the north east musicians mart.

The fender ones I've tried have been about 18mm, maybe a little tighter, I'd suggest a Yamaha rbx, I had a rbx765a as my first 5er, 19mm spacing and a really great sound, very well made too, I think I paid about 120 for mine, a total bargain.

I had one of the super cheap ones from gear4music, it seemed ok for the tiny price, unfortunately I didn't measure the kit before I bought the case and nothing I owned fitted in it (it was the shallow one and the space between the control panels and the front cover wasn't deep enough for the handles on my power amp) Matt

thanks for all the replies, I think as soon as funds allow I will spring for one of these, my power supply can put out up to 240mA isolated so I shouldn't have power issues. Thanks again Mat

I have mine strung up with D'addario Nickel rounds, I'm really impressed with mine, it has a good P-bass sound and I haven't noticed any floppiness with the B string. I'd say that for the money they're worth a try, and if you can find a secondhand one they're a bargain that should be snapped up (I paid 130 for mine) Matt

[quote name='SmoothHoundChris' timestamp='1467875291' post='3086826'] This is definitely the best basschat website in the world!! Thanks guys! [/quote] hello, are there any plans for a dedicated belt pack version? I've had bad experiences with using female to female adapters in the past and this is the only sticking point that stops me swapping my Line6 system for a Smoothhound one. also what current does the receiver require? thanks Matt

Sorry! If you're handy with a soldering iron then building an a/b switch is a pretty simple job, all the parts are available on eBay and it shouldn't take you very long to wire it up Matt

I can't help you with how to get this apart but my first thought was to ask how you are trying to use this? The fs-6 is designed to switch external things, usually to replace a channel footswitch for an amp or to switch 2 different things like an amp channel and a pedal trigger, if you are trying to use it to switch between 2 instruments or between 2 amps then unfortunately you have the wrong piece of kit. Matt

I am using a Hiscox for a Squier Precision 5 string which is 4+1 and it fits perfectly well, no issues with the tuners hitting the case sides. I could take a picture tonight if you want to see what the clearance is actually like. I only use Hiscox cases as they are the only ones I trust (currently 3 bass cases, 2 acoustic cases and 3 electric cases.) Matt

I had a trial with the R-400 a weekend ago and was very impressed, I started by setting the tone controls to flat and then all it needed was a slight tweak of the contour control and that was it, this amp really cuts through in a band setting, very easy to find a gap in the mix and be heard, I found that I had plenty of power when paired with my Barefaced Midgets, unfortunately I didn't have time to try out any other cabs but this head certainly has enough to make myself heard at any venue I'm likely to pay with my pub band, I don't think I'd need any more power (if I was playing bigger venues then I'd use the excellent DI and just use my rig for on-stage monitoring) the overdrive is very controllable as well, very easy to dial in just the right amount of grit (or a lot of dirt) I found myself just setting it to just below the breakup point then using a boost pedal to push it over into breakup when I needed to. I'm very tempted to order one of these but with a baby on the way and uncertainty about my employment it would have to wait a few months at least. Matt

I will be taking custody of the r-400 this evening, i'll only get a chance to give it a proper run out on Sunday morning at church but that should give me enough to decide if I'm going to order one. I'm pretty excited to have a go at running valves again and i'll report back with my thoughts. Matt

I'd certainly like to test it out. Matt

I don't have any experience with the BB2 but from my past couple of years gigging barefaced Midgets I think you might be surprised at the volume that a single Barefaced cab can produce. Have you spoken to Alex at barefaced to discuss your needs? he's really very good at suggesting suitable cabs. how big are the venues that you are playing? I've played pub gigs with a single midget and my Markbass F1 and not had any issues keeping up with our drummer or our noisy guitarist. I have a feeling that a single BB2 might be all you ever need unless you're playing large venues with no PA support. Matt

i think you've been given some great advice so far, I started out on a Yamaha RBX765, picked it up for about 120 quid, 19mm spacing, as I only had one bass back then I didn't really know any different, since then I got my 77 precision and got used to the standard spacing on that. then I ordered my letts 5 and it came as 17.5-18mm ish spacing, this felt perfect from the start, I have tried the tighter spacing of the Ibanez and warwick 5's whn i' was looking for a backup bass and they all seemed very cramped, the squire vm p-5 I have now is perfect, exactly the same spacing as the letts and a similar character to my 77 precision. the best advice I can give is to look into floating thumb technique, this has been one of the best things I have done in years, everything sounds clearer and more defined as the low b isn't constantly vibrating (even if I don't actually hit it) Matt

[quote name='Count Bassy' timestamp='1463180826' post='3049416'] Beer is water based, so I'd go with Phil's water suggestion. If you have any IPA (The alcohol not the beer!) then id' follow it up with a spray of that which will displace the water and evaporate quickly. Let it dry thoroughly, and you'll probably be OK. Water will not hurt the electronic components - companies that reclaim & resell old PCBs are known to put them in a domestic dishwasher as a first step to get all the muck off. [/quote] I'd definitely go for the IPA for this, I've twice dropped my digital thermometer into the brew bucket when making beer, both times I quickly dismantled it and washed it off with IPA, and both times it sprung back into life when it dried off and I put in fresh batteries. Matt

I think that the main issue that you are going to have is getting hold of a genuine Superfly 1000, I don't think they were actually officially released, about 30 were apparently supplied to Ashdown by the factory and some went to sounds live but they are identical to the 500w versions, I think that you have to check the serial number with Ashdown to get confirmation that it's a 1000w version. I had one of the 500w versions and the preamp was fantastic, unfortunately the power amp sections on the 500w versions weren't that great, I got a serious squeal very early on form one of the outputs and about 6 months later the other output started to go the same way, I gave it away in the end to someone who just needed a preamp for recording. this is the thread I found on TB where I got some of my info. I believe that Ashdown have a rep who is a member on here, hopefully he'll be able to fill in any blanks or correct me if I'm wrong. if I were looking for an Ashdown then the Retroglide looks like the top option. Matt

have you spotted this? [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/282884-new-amp-test-handbox-r-400-new-to-the-uk/"]http://basschat.co.u...-new-to-the-uk/[/url] Matt

If it's a straight power amp you want then this might be an option, not cheap though. http://www.demeteramps.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=62&product_id=92 Matt

somehow I didn't get notifications from this thread, M3x8 pan head screws will probably be about right, it might be worth picking up a small selection box of m3 and m4 nuts and bolts, a washer between the screw had and the tray is a good idea too. Matt

Has anyone managed to Track any of these down yet? or got confirmation that they're coming to Europe? I asked in Guitarguitar on Saturday about the TMB605 an they phoned me back this morning to say that only theTM100 was available. Matt

is there not something stamped into the unit next to the hole? I've seen the screw spec stamped into some units. Assuming that this is a Japanese Unit I'd expect it to be a Metric screw, measure the diameter of the hole and round up to the nearest millimetre, (i'd expect it to be 4mm or so), then just pick up a selection of (M4) screws, shine a light into the hole and see how deep it can go, or use a cocktail stick to judge how far the screw can go before it hits something, then fit a slightly shorter screw so it doesn't short on something inside.