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Matt P

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Everything posted by Matt P

  1. having done this a couple of times (stupidly I didn't learn the first time) I'd go for a respray in a more appealing colour, far less work and probably about the same price once you factor in all the sandpaper. Matt
  2. I'm loving that little fillet. Really works.
  3. looking good! I think the curve on the fretboard will really add something to the overall look, is the jack going to be front mounted? could it not be hidden on the back to keep with the smooth minimalist look of the front? some kind of angled cover/ socket? like a strat jack plate but inside out and made of wood., I know I've seen something similar on a guitar or bass but I can't find a picture of it. EDIT! I've just remembered where I've seen it, GUS guitars! Matt
  4. I'd have a look at TKS cabs, the ones that I heard were superb and they're very well priced, do you really need 2 cabs? from my experience the modern 2x12 cabs are very efficient so you might only need 1, also quite a few are 4 ohm so unless your amp can run at 2 ohms then you will be limited to a single cab. Matt
  5. if you decide to sell on then I might be interested, mainly in the tuners and the electronics, and probably the strings as well, (I've got the ideas for a build and these would be good donor parts to get me going) Matt
  6. another vote for a 500W head and 2x12 cab (or 2 1x12 cabs) I've yet to run out of volume with my rig and my bandmates are noisy so-and-so's! I quite like the modular approach with 2 1x12", I use one for rehearsals and smaller venues and then the pair in bigger places, if I get to the point where I don't have enough from my rig then I'd be expecting a decent PA to DI into and my cabs will be for stage monitoring only. I've played 2 gigs now where I took both cabs and forgot to plug the bottom one in, only realise when I check my rig before the second set. the modern 12" cabs are streets ahead of the old 4x10's. Matt
  7. I've got 99% of my kit stashed away, there is a shelving unit in the spare bedroom that has the bass cabs, a couple of 2x12 guitar combo's and my acoustic amp on, all behind a nice curtain, the cupboard on the landing has another couple of guitar amps and the PA desk, then the study (my Den) has a big double height rack with all the instruments in their cases, there are always a couple out on stands in the study for practice. the only instrument on display is my McIlroy acoustic guitar which is on a hanger in the living room. (actually bought this while out shopping for the wall hanger for my old Yamaha acoustic! went in to spend 15 quid, end up spending nearly 2k!) Matt
  8. I was going for a fairly standard precision type bass, I'm leaning towards torty for the plate, and probably just dots on the board, something along the lines of a '63 p-bass but as a five string, I think I'm going to have to start saving/selling stuff to get the money together, I've just had to fork out for a new car as the old one fell to bits so it will be a little while before i can pull the trigger on a new bass. we'll need another north east bass bash when your Jake arrives wateroftyne ! Matt
  9. these look so nice, does anyone know what the string spacing is for the 5er's? I've seen 19mm as a special, if they can do 17.5-18mm then I think that they might beat limelight for my next bass, 5 sting Jake, sonic blue with matching headstock and a rosewood board. probably just a p-pup and passive. not made my mind up on the scratchplate, mint or torty? att
  10. i'll chip in properly in a week or so, I have one of the iNuke 3000 amps for our PA, it's to run the mains so we only really need about 400W per side into 4ohms, I've not had a chance to properly try it out so I'll report back after the gig, our desk is also Behringer, and I've used some of the other gear too, for the cost I've generally been pretty impressed with the results. Matt
  11. [quote name='Jus Lukin' timestamp='1430300430' post='2759920'] Do you use adapters, or did you wire a UK plug on? And to the OP, I use a Visual Sound One Spot to various setups with no trouble, and have the larger Harley Benton on a board, again with no problems! [/quote] I fitted a male iec connector (kettle lead) so it now just needs a lead the same as my am. Matt
  12. a vote here for the Harley Benton Junior, I've got one powering my board and it's fantastic for the cash. (our guitarist has one as well) Matt
  13. that does look tasty, I think I might hold off from buying a tonehammer 500 and see what these actually sound like I person. Matt
  14. the only small issue with the Harley Benton supply is that it has a fixed 2 pin European plug, very easy to chop it off and fit a male IEC (kettle) plug though, Matt
  15. if you want a cheap power supply then the Harley Benton Junior is a cracker, I'm using one for my board (actually using 2 but the other is the palmer version which is more expensive) 5x120mA outputs and they're isolated so you can do 18v or 240mA with the right cables. and they're under 25 quid! Matt
  16. Bill is talking real sense here, designing Bass cabs is a science (or possibly a black art), this is the reason that I till have a celestion neo 10 sitting in it's original box on a shelf, I bought it about 7 years ago thinking that i could save some cash and build my own little lightweight cab, after reading around a bit and playing with winisd for many hours I realised that even with my engineering degree I was in over my head, hence the pair of barefaced cabs in my signature. Matt
  17. 230lbs is 104kg, so I still think the new cab is going to weigh as much as the old one, have you looked at the Fearful 1515/66 ? it's about the same overall size as the cab you are building but will be much lighter and should be much louder. Matt
  18. ok, then my calc comes out at about 65kg empty, which would be well over the 103kg of your old cab when you add the drivers, personally I'd be looking at the designs by Bill Fitzmaurice or the fearful designs, 1x15 or 2x15 with the eminence speakers. Matt
  19. I've just done a fag packet calculation based on the pictures, and assuming that it's about 4 ft high, 3 ft wide and 20 inches deep, and made from 18mm ply, I'm getting about 40kg for the empty cab, so at least 80kg with the speakers, lighter than the 103.5kg of the basson but compared to a modern 2x15 or one of Alex's 6x10's it's still very heavy. it makes my back ache just thinking about moving it! Matt
  20. that's a beast, 40kg of drivers alone! I'd make sure that the stage can take it before you haul it down there, with the added weight of a VBA400 (or 2!) and then the vibrations, this could end up through the floor! how much does the empty cab weigh? Matt
  21. big thumbs up for the D6, our drummer bought one and it's ace, we have the i5 for the snare as well, another great mic. Matt
  22. I use the cut to size Velcro tape, permanently attached with a jeans-type rivet, when I'm off to a gig they go into a laptop bag with my amp, at home I have a few long hooks to store cables on and one for straps. [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/130467005692?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/130467005692?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0[/url] Matt
  23. another recommendation to go for just a few mics, we use a bass drum mic, a dynamic on the snare and a pair of condensers on the overheads, if you pick carefully they will also double up for other instruments if he decides to branch out (or if you want to do some band recording on the cheap and he'll let borrow them) Matt
  24. that looks mighty pretty, but I notice that there is no access panel on the back for string changes, so everything has to be done through the soundhole, I played a couple of different models before I bought my kala and the access o he underside of the bridge was major factor for me,the kala had the nicest design with hidden magnets, there was a korala and a ohana as well and one had no access and the other had screw in panel which is fine as a design but the screws were in at odd angles so they weren't flush, so even though there was very little to choose between them in tone and playability I went for the kala (the nice semi hard case helped to offset the £100 extra that the kala was over it's next dearest rival) one of te cheaper ones was fitted with strings that looked like Aquila but when compared to the real thing they were a lighter colour and not quite as nice sounding. Matt
  25. I think Andyjr1515 has said it best, as it's a bound maple neck the work involved to thin it down will be huge, if you can find someone to build a replica to your own spec then that is probably easiest, and as the badge looks like it can be unscrewed from the original neck and screwed into the new one no-one would be able to tell that it's not original. I wouldn't be surprised if the new neck was about the same price as slimming down the old one either. Matt
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