obbm

Here's my slightly modified Lakland Duck Dunn

[quote name='martindupras' post='623288' date='Oct 11 2009, 06:19 PM']Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, that's not what I'm looking for. I'm not looking for already-made leads, I want to make my own. I want to buy cable, by the metre (or foot.) - martin[/quote] I can supply VanDamme Classic Instrument Cable and Klotz HiFi Audio (used to be LaGrange) by the metre.

Sterling 5s are extrememly rare in the UK. If you want a new one then its a 4-month wait. Stingray 5s have been around for about 20-years. There have been various revisions over the years and special editions. There are always plenty on the used market at mostly sensible prices.

[quote name='Duarte' post='622461' date='Oct 10 2009, 03:08 PM']Music Man have flat fingerboards. Well, at last the 3 I have owned all did. With the Sterling and Stingray, you can't say which is the 'better' bass, they are simply different. For example, the Stingray will offer a more warm, old school tone, whilst the Sterling offers more aggressive, more mid range punch. The Stingray is somewhat scooped in the mids. The Pickuips and Preamps are different, but you will get the classic music man vibe with either bass. I love them all! Also, the Sterling offers a smaller neck and smaller offset body and the Stingray is quite a lot fatter. This doesn't neccesarily mean the sterling is lighter than the ray, as wood varies obviously.[/quote] OP is asking about 5-string versions. Necks of Sterling 5 and Stingray 5 are the same dimensions.

I am so annoyed that I can't be there. Have a great day chaps.

Up to £999

[quote name='alexclaber' post='617481' date='Oct 5 2009, 02:42 PM']That's simply because those cabs don't have much ability to move air (cone area x excursion) and therefore really need the boundary reinforcement to cope. Common problem - amplifying bass outdoors is tough! Alex[/quote] Thanks. Point taken and understood.

[quote name='fenderiko' post='617372' date='Oct 5 2009, 01:11 PM']so you are suggesting that cabs with a rare port are no good for outdoors gigs ? ? ? surly the amp/cab makers would have thought of that when designing the cab ? ? please correct me if Im wrong R[/quote] Just personal experience with the pair of Ashdown Mini 4x8s I had 6 years ago. Fine indoors, especially in front of a wall. Useless outdoors in the middle of a stage. That's why I sold them.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='617355' date='Oct 5 2009, 01:02 PM']A rear port only needs a port diameter behind it to work well and most heavy-duty speakon cables force you to give the cab that much clearance at the back - literally only 3" or 4" is required for the vast majority of cabs.[/quote] Except when you're playing outdoors old boy, when your LF content disappears into the field behind you.

[quote name='TRadford' post='616285' date='Oct 4 2009, 10:08 AM']The neck plate seems to be blank though, surely it should be stamped with the serial number or the logo? The headstock seems to be 1976-8 style from what I can make out. The bridge, I cant find one like it anywhere. I suppose its possible it is a 70's stingray thats just had bits chopped and changed.[/quote] My pre-EB has all gold-plated hardware and the neck plate is plain. The bridge should be larger and have the string mutes and yes the pick-up is too close to the bridge. Asked the seller if it was active or passive and if active where was the battery? Answer "hi i know nothing about guitars sorry i cant help you i dont think it has a batt."

[quote name='TRadford' post='616231' date='Oct 4 2009, 08:51 AM']Anyone seen this? Looks a bit dubious to me, but I know little about them. The back plate looks wrong, there is no battery compartment, the bridge doesnt look quite right.... what do you lot think? [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290355478695&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT"]Ebay link[/url][/quote] That is very interesting. The neck looks to be original pre-EB. Bullet truss rod, skunk stripe and 3-bolt neck plate. Control plate could be but the body is probably not. The bridge definitely doesn't look right. Story: Several years ago a local luthier borrowed my pre-EB so that he could take a pattern of the body. He had a customer in Sussex who had several old Stingray necks that he needed bodies for. Go figure.

[quote name='MacDaddy' post='615131' date='Oct 2 2009, 07:23 PM']....., but there will be plenty more Bashes![/quote] True and I may have something worth bringing next time.

[quote name='craigonbass' post='615122' date='Oct 2 2009, 07:12 PM']I notice No3 OBBM is missing, is Dave not coming? Craig[/quote] I want to go but I'm not up to it yet Craig. Recovery is taking longer than I thought.

I've had a DJ4, DJ5, JO5, JS4 and currently retain a Duck Dunn which has had a J bridge pick-up added. All of them have been excellent quality. I think the DJ5 was the lightest and sometimes I regret selling it because it had a great growly tone. Perhaps I should get another Note the JO4 and the DD share the same neck specification. The DJ4 neck has a different profile and an extra fret as the body has been slimmed down.

I've dug these out from my archives and removed the component values. It shows the similarities between these pre-amps. All three have the same tone control structure (Fender) - bass and treble boost only, mid cut only. The F2B is the most basic design uses two valve stages to achieve its gain The F1X has a cathode follower first stage to provide a very high impedance input and low impedance output to the effects loop. All the gain is in the second valve stage. The tone control has an additional deep switch. Not shown is DI output stage and an adjustable crossover for bi-amping. The Trace uses the same fundamental circuit as the F1X with a few componet value changes. There is an added Mid Shift switch. There is a second valve of which the first stage is used to bring the gain back up after the tone circuit and the second stage is another cathode follower to provide a very low impedance output. The Trace V8 pre-amp is an evolution of this with a switchable dual valve overdrive stage positioned between the output of the second stage and the tone circuit. It can be switched by relays and can be controlled remotely.

[quote name='synaesthesia' post='607235' date='Sep 23 2009, 11:17 PM']Not really, they are based on the Showman circuit but they are not the same. The Trace has a different tone circuit to the F-1X. The F-2B channel is closer to the showman.[/quote] OK there are some minor component differences but the basic circuits are still the same.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='606708' date='Sep 23 2009, 03:04 PM']Any chance of a scan of that?[/quote] I've found the front end schematic up to the point where if goes to the DI and the crossover. I'm not sure that I ever did the rest and certainly not the power supply, they are so boring. I'll email you what I have if you pm me your email addy.

[quote name='tayste_2000' post='606630' date='Sep 23 2009, 01:17 PM']What preamps have you got lying around these days, want to loan me any I'll return them I promise *ninja*[/quote] Sadly I have none these days Steve. If I did have any you would be very welcome to try them. All I have are 3 solid-state heads, an Orange AD200 and three project valve amps. I went through a whole load of pre-amps when I was gigging intensively a few years ago finally settling on an Alembic F1X. With a 5751 instead of the 12AX7 it was beautifully smooth howver the weight of it togther with a QSC and tuner, all in a flight-case was too much weight.

[quote name='tayste_2000' post='606256' date='Sep 22 2009, 11:11 PM']F-2B is a dual F1X isn't it with a few less switches, like a more basic but dual version?[/quote] Not at all. Different animal. In the F2B both stages give gain with the tone stack between them. The F1X has a cathode follower first stage to give a low impedance drive to the effects loop. All the gain is in the second stage with the tone stack following. Then there is a solid state output driver, transformer DI and crossover for bi-amping. When I owned one I took it apart and sketched the schematic.