obbm

[quote name='d-basser' post='719347' date='Jan 20 2010, 05:55 PM']Thanks for the info obbm, what brand did you opt for? Where did you pick them up?[/quote] When I had gain problems with a BBE BMAX-T I bought a few Philips JAN 5751 from an outfit in Sussex. They always come up Ebay.

[quote name='d-basser' post='719241' date='Jan 20 2010, 04:49 PM']There is two 12AX7s in the Orange, I assume I would just replace both with ECC81s. Total noob in all things valve, is it just a case of taking the old ones out and putting the new style in or is there more to it than that?[/quote] I think you might be taking out too much gain by doing that. When I have some time I'm going to put a pair of 5751s into mine. I put a pair into an EH English Muffn and it sounded really good now. Swapping pre-amp valves is very easy. Remove valve, line-up pins, insert new valve. Job done.

[quote name='BottomEndian' post='717821' date='Jan 19 2010, 01:42 PM']I don't really understand why Warwick didn't use the word "Speakon" in their manual. Would they have to pay Neutrik for the privilege of doing so? Or is it just bad translation from German?[/quote] To the uninitiated a Speakon socket's appearance would suggest that it is co-axial. I had a look at the cab schematics and they are all normal Speakon 1+/1-.

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='717038' date='Jan 18 2010, 08:01 PM']Ok, thanks guys. So, we are talking about SR's here aren't we. Does the Sub use the same electrics or could it be a cheaper version?[/quote] SR4 2-band pre-amp is pretty basic and a very old design so I would imagine its the same. Best way to find out is ask at the EBMM Forum.

[quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='716922' date='Jan 18 2010, 06:59 PM']Just to clarify Dave, the 2eq MM preamp is boost only. The 3eq is cut/boost. That's why the 2eq models always seem more powerful. I prefer to the 2eq's, to be honest. Much more rounded and richer sound. Rich.[/quote] Sorry to disagree but John East did a careful analysis of the 2-band when he was designing his equivalent unit. His finding were posted on the original Dudepit Forum. The bass is boost only however because of the way that the circuit is designed it gives the effect of slight cut/boost. The treble is genuine cut/boost. If you don't believe me then ask John.

[quote name='Platypus' post='714410' date='Jan 15 2010, 10:12 PM']NV212[/quote] +1 I'd probably sell my Epifanis for one of those.

[quote name='coxswain' post='713754' date='Jan 15 2010, 01:57 PM']@obbm I'm in Bristol, know any good techs in this area? Thanks for the help, guys[/quote] Not my area I'm afraid but there are plenty of Bristol based members here. The other alternative is to get it back to Ashdown.

So who bought it for £410?

I had a similar effect when I blew-up the power supply of my Ashdown ABM500. I strongly recvommend that you take it to a Tech and get it checked. Where are you?

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='711778' date='Jan 13 2010, 07:15 PM']Not wishing to hijack the thread but what is the correct convention for wiring them when making a Speakon to 1/4" jack lead?[/quote] For normal cabs: Jack tip to 1+ Jack sleeve to 1-

Speakon has a higher contact area compared to a jack and consequently a lower resistance, however you can't just consider the connectors, there is the cable as well. There are many cheap Speakon cables available which are sold for PA use with very small cross-section conductors totally unsuitable for bass. 4-sq.mm. is probably best.

My modified Lakland Duck Dunn. These are matched split-coil Lindy Fralin pick-ups bought on Ebay from Angelainstruments in the USA. Great tone and zero noise and hum when either is soloed.

[quote name='molan' post='710184' date='Jan 12 2010, 04:29 PM']Anyone else here told him via EBay that they don't think it's genuine? I did so it would only take 2 other people to make his claim of "two" a little suspect. . .[/quote] Yes I've just given him chapter and verse about it and pointed him to the Musicman history web site.

In my catalogue there is the 715 which is 480mm wide but has the amp shown at the top with no DI rated at 130-watts. There is also a matching AH130S stand-alone head. The stand alone head like yours, with DI, is designated AH2007S. I think that means it a 200-watt head, GP7 pre-amp series "S". Other pre-amps that followed were the SM, SMC, SMX, etc. The head is quoted as 400-watt peak power output so you're probably right about the salesman. The fact that yours had the S added probably means that it might have been a customer special or an interim model as they did change the styling quite a bit around then, or even a way of moving some of stock items. Whichever way I would say it's a 715S, 200-watt into 4-ohms.

According to one of my old catalogues the bottom head is an [b]AH2007S[/b] i.e an AH200 with the GP7 pre-amp The 1 x15 combo with that same amp is the 7215 200-watts RMS H: 590mm W:610mm D:335mm I've tried scanning the page but the images are so small that much the detail disappears, even at high resolution. [attachment=40043:T7215.jpg]

I've just checked my messages and I still have a copy of the question I asked and the answer. MUSIC MAN STINGRAY BASS Item Id: 290355478695 End time: 08-Oct-09 21:36:52 BST Seller: keithy30 (373) 100.0% Positive Feedback Member since 23-Feb-03 in United Kingdom Location: East Sussex, United Kingdom Question: Dear keithy30, Is this bass active or passive? If active, where is the battery? cheers Dear ***** hi i know nothing about guitars sorry i cant help you i dont think it has a batt. - keithy30

[quote name='wateroftyne' post='708504' date='Jan 11 2010, 08:34 AM']If you think THIS is bad, you're in for a shock. If I were you I would just chill a bit an enjoy the best years of your life....[/quote] +1

[quote name='TGEvans' post='707594' date='Jan 10 2010, 12:55 PM']I felt ridiculous saying it but its true. It did make a difference to both my guitars.[/quote] Not that ridiculous. It probably has a lower resistance and therefore subjects the signal to less attenuation.

Welcome and hi from Farnham.

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='705908' date='Jan 8 2010, 07:26 PM']still, its not like anyone is going to be ripped off. The reserve was very reasonable given the value of the parts.[/quote] I must disagree. It's a gross misrepresentation. It is NOT a Stingray and someone who doesn't know could well be ripped off thnking they are getting the real deal. Not all potential buyers are as knowledgeable as the BC membership. Anyway where's the battery? The only real parts are probably the neck and the pick-up and they do not add up to a real Ray.

This has been listed before. It's a bitza. Bits from here and bits from there. Genuine pre-EB neck. Body is copy. Pick-up in wrong place. Wrong bridge. Control plate looks home-made. Last time it was up it was reported.

About 2 years ago I bought a pink one of these second-hand off Ebay for £41. It was for my Neice to have a go on the basis that if it was a 5-minute fad then it wasn't going to do much financial damage. Firstly it's a 32-inch scale. When I got it the action was appalling but after a change of strings and a thorough set-up it played reasonably well and sounded very old school. The neck was very thick somewhat like a broom handle. I also had to take a file to the fret ends as they were very sharp and would tear your hands of you were not careful. There is a photo somewhere of Dood playing it at the last National Bass Bash. It has served it's purpose very well (the novelty has worn off) however if I was looking for a project bass I would not get one of these.

If you fancy a trip out into the provinces Jack there are still quite a few in West Surrey. Details [url="http://www.facebook.com/home.php?ref=home#/group.php?v=info&gid=5701269558"]here[/url]

They have different profile necks. The DJ has one more fret than the JO The original DJ had Aero pickups whilst the JO had Lindy Fralins. More modern ones have Lakland pick-ups. Of the two I far preferred the DJ5 with the smaller body and deeper growl.